THE 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, 



WINE-MAKING 



BY ROBERT BUCHANAN. 



APPENDIX CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR THE 

CULTIVATION OF THE STRAWBERRY, 

BY N. LOKGWORTH. 



FOURTH EDITION. 



CINCINNATI: 
MOORE, ANDERSON & COMPANY, 

28 WEST FOURTH STREET. 

1853. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by 

MOORE & ANDERSON, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Ohio. 



Mrs. Hennen Jennings 
April 26, 1933 



CINCINNATI: 

C. A. MORGAN <fc CO., STEREOTYPERS, 

HAMMOND ST. 



PREFACE 

TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 



Three editions of this little treatise, within a year, being 
required to supply the demand for it, would seem to indicate 
that the public interest in Grape Culture is on the increase. 
The author therefore deems it his duty to give the result of his own 
experience, and that of his fellow-members of the "Wine-growers' 
Association," in vineyard culture during the past year. It was found 
that the severe frosts of January and February, 1852—8° to 12° below 
zero — killed many of the grape buds in warm exposed situations, and 
several vineyards in Kentucky, a few miles south of this city, scarcely 
produced any fruit. The hard frosts of the 18th and 19th of 
March did not injure the grape buds, although many apples, such as 
the yellow Belleflower, were killed in the opening bud ; all the 
peaches, many of the pears, and most of the cherries were destroyed. 

The frosts of the middle of April and second week in May injured 
the young shoots of the vine, especially in low situations or near 
moisture, and in the rows near grass ;. but with all these visitations 
from frosts, the grape crop was a very promising one until attacked 
by the rot, the second week in July, and subsequently the first week 
in August — the latter but slight. This disease appeared to affect 
those vineyards most, that were in low situations, or not fully ex- 
posed to a free circulation of air, either from close planting or 
otherwise. 

High manuring, deep hoeing or plowing, and a want of summer 
pruning at the right time, it was thought, increased the liability 
to rot. This disease, or something like it, prevailed in many parts 
of Europe, last year, where it had scarcely been known before, and 
in the island of Madeira caused an almost entire failure of the grape 
crop. 

In this vicinity it cut off about half of the average crop, reducing 
the product of the whole county to about one hundred gallons per 
acre. Some made more, but many less than that average. It was 

(iii) 



IV PREFACE. 

observed that the poor lands and Ugh situations suffered least. Jt hj 
supposed by some that the rot is allied to the mildew, and that scat- 
tering flour of sulphur over the vineyard, in June and again in 
July, may prevent the rot, as sulphur is applied as a remedy for mil- 
dew, in grape-houses, with complete success. This experiment 
might be tried. Ashes are certainly a valuable application, scat- 
tered over the surface and turned under with the spring hoeing. Dr. 
Rehfuss strongly recommends this. Insects did but little injury to 
the vine last year. The one "resembling a small rose-bug" was 
scarce. 

A new woodcut, to illustrate spring pruning and summer train- 
ing, has been inserted in place of the old one, which was imperfect 
in some points. In spring pruning it is found best to omit the first 
tie, if the branch is too stiff to bend easily in a circle or bow. This 
leaves a three-quarter bow or circle. Summer pruning should be 
done promptly ; if deferred too late it is certainly injurious, but be 
careful not to prune too close. 

The vineyards near Hermann, Mo., are said now to amount to 
near five hundred acres. The liberal premiums offered by Mr. Alex- 
ander Kayser, of St. Louis, for the best Missouri wines, were awarded 
at Hermann in August last, at a large and enthusiastic meeting of 
the wine-growers of that vicinity. 

Schuylkill Grape has been adopted by the "Wine-growers' 
Association," as the proper name of that heretofore known as the 
" Cape Grape" — Cape being a misnomer. 



Vineyard Memoranda continued from page 55 — 1852. A bad year for rot ; lost one- 
third of a full crop, but still made from five acres in bearing, 1,700 gallons -wine. Sold, 
in December, 1,600 gallons at $1,25 per gallon. Have for sale this year, about 75,000 
cuttings. The grapes ripened well, and the wine was of fine quality. Trenched two 
acres more for vineyard. 

The demand for Catawba Wine is far ahead of the supply, and the quality is con- 
stantly being improved, both by the cultivators and those who prepare it for market. 
Mr. Longworth's expenditures have been large and liberal, fully sustaining his well- 
earned title— the "father of vine culture" in this region. 

R. Buchanan. 

Cincinnati, Feb. 18th, 1853. 



TO THE 



CINCINNATI HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, 



The cultivation of the Grape in vineyards, for making wine, is 
now so important a branch of horticulture, in the valley of the Ohio, 
and especially in this vicinity, that a brief Treatise on the subject 
may perhaps be considered useful. 

The one now presented, has been compiled from several valuable 
articles on grape culture, published within the last ten years, in horti- 
cultural periodicals, by able writers and practical men — members of 
your society; Mr. Longworth, Dr. Mosher, Dr. Flagg, A. H. 
Ernst, J. E. Mottier, C. W. Elliott, Wm. Resor, John Saters, 
T. Affleck, and others — the greatest number being from the pen of 
Mr. Longworth ; also from Mr. Schuman's pamphlet, published in 
1845, and a book on the same subject, by John James Dufour, of 
Vevay, la., 1826 ; aided by the observations and practical experience 
of the writer. 

After all that has been done, and written, grape culture and wine- 
making in this country, is as yet but imperfectly understood, and it 
is only by experience and a free interchange of opinions, that we shall 
arrive at a better knowledge of it hereafter. 

Our climate, and the native grapes we cultivate, differ so much 
from those of Europe, that the intelligent vine-dresser from the old 
world, finds he has much to learn in the new, and that a wide field 
is presented for observation, in which all must here work and think for 
themselves. 

At the time Mr. Dufour wrote, in 1826, the Cape Grape was then 
the only kind cultivated in the Ohio Valley, for wine. About that 
time the Catawba was brought into notice as a wine grape, by Major 
Adlum, at Georgetown, D. C, and by Mr. Longworth, in the 
West ; and it is now so great a favorite as to be almost the only 
variety planted. To these gentlemen, as public benefactors, the 
country owes a lasting debt of gratitude for introducing into vine- 
yard culture, this noble grape. 

(v) 



Many improvements in grape culture, and in wine-making, have 
been made since Mr. Dtjfour's day — even since the publication of 
Mr. Schuman's pamphlet, in 1845, only five years ago, practical 
cultivators have, in some particulars, adopted other modes than 
those then recommended ; and it is confidently expected, that within 
the next five years, still greater improvements will be discovered. 
The business is yet in its infancy, and will require long and careful 
nursing to enable it to reach maturity. 

With our present flattering prospects of success in this branch of 
home industry, it would be improper to close these prefatory remarks 
without a passing tribute to the merits of the worthy pioneers in the 
enterprise — the Swiss settlers of Vevay, and the German vine- 
dressers of our own county — who, under ail the disadvantages of a 
climate, soil, and vines unknown to them — persevered in their efforts, 
with patient industry, until the present favorable results have been 
produced. But to Mr. Longworth, more than to any other man in 
the West, we are most indebted for our knowledge in grape culture. 
Mr. Longworth has, within the last twenty-seven years, with 
unwearied zeal and a liberal expenditure of money, in numerous 
experiments with foreign and native grapes, succeeded in enabling 
himself and others, to present to the public, a " Sparkling Catawba," 
rivaling the best French Champagne, and a dry wine from the same 
grape, that compares favorably with the celebrated Hock wine of the 
Rhine. 

Several varieties of wine have been produced from other grapes 
than the Catawba, but with the exception of that made from the 
Cape — which is a red wine resembling Claret — it will require time 
to ascertain their value. 

From the Isabella, Ohio, Missouri, Norton's Seedling, Minor's 
Seedling, Lenoir, and Herbemont's Madeira, wines have been made 
of more or less oromise — samples of which may be found at the 
cellars of Mr. Longworth, and some others. 

The views here given are those of many of our most intelligent 
vine-dressers. A difference of opinion may exist with others on 
some points, which time and experience alone can reconcile. 

R. Buchanan. 
Cincinnati, Feb. 18th, 1850. 



PKEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



The first edition of one thousand copies of this Treatise was 
exhausted in a few months, and a second has been called 
for. The present is cheerfully undertaken, with a view to 
add such information as may have been acquired during the 
last two years, on this so favorite a subject with the Author. 

Few changes in Grape culture within that period, however, 
have been found necessary. Suggestions in relation to spring 
and summer pruning are still under discussion, and some 
improvements in Wine-making have been adopted. 

Early last year a number of proprietors of vineyards, 
impressed with the importance of united efforts, formed 
themselves into the "American Wine Growers' Association,' ' 
for the purpose of mutual instruction by a free interchange 
of opinions, at periodical meetings. 

Thus far their labors have been eminently successful : 
"The Western Horticultural Review," edited with great 
ability by Dr. Jno. A. Warder, is the medium through which 
their proceedings are given to the public. The articles on 
the subject of Grape culture and Wines, with the monthly 
Calendar for the vineyard, so carefully prepared by the 
Editor, will be found of great value to the vine-dresser. 

It is not pretended that a brief treatise like this, can do 
justice to a subject of such importance, but it is hoped that 

(vii) 



yiii PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 

it may serve as a hand-book to new beginners in the business, 
who will, of course, in the progress of their labors, study- 
more elaborate works from abler pens. 

Compilations are like labor-saving machines, suited to the 
present go-ahead age, of Steamboats, Railroads and Tele- 
graphs, where time is everything. The American mind 
cannot wait for detail, therefore the extracts from the writings 
of others are short, and the original matter by the author 
condensed. 

The object of the publication at first, is explained in the 
preface to the former edition. 

Cincinnati, March 17, 1862. 






CONTENTS. 



TH E VI NEYARD. 

PAGE 

Position and Soil 9 

Preparing the ground 10 

Planting 10 

Directions for planting Cuttings in a Nursery 12 

Treatment of the Young Vineyard 12 

Spring Pruning 13 

Summer ditto 15 

Culture 16 

Diseases, Insects, and Frosts 17 

Varieties of Grapes cultivated 23 

Durability of Vineyards, etc 26 

To restore Premature Decay in a Vineyard 27 

MAKING WINE. 

The Wine Press 27 

Gathering and Pressing the Grapes 28 

Fermentation 30 

Fining Wines 65 

Character of the Wine 33 

STATISTICS. 

Cost of Establishing a Vineyard 44 

" " Attending a Vineyard ., 49 

" " Making the Wine 50 

Probable Product per acre 50 

Sale of the Wine 55 

Wine Cellars and Houses 58 

Number of Acres in Cultivation in this Vicinity 59 

Bearing 60 

Average Product to the Acre 60 

Vineyard Culture in the United States 60 

American Grapes 63 

(is) 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Analysis of Soils 65 

Vineyard Culture in Australia 68 

Product of the Vine in France 70 

Vineyard Region in the United States 71 

APPENDIX. 

Falsification of Wines, by 1ST. Longworth 92 

Fermentation of Wines, by J. Brace 77 

Fermenting on the Skins — J. Williamson 112 

Foreign Grapes, by Mr. Downing 91 

Grape Seedlings, by N. Reihl 85 

Grapes in Canada West 95 

Grape Culture near Reading, Pa 96 

Manufacture of Wine, and Rot in Grapes, by N. Longworth 97 

Manufacture of Native Wine 108 

Native Wine, by Dr. Mosher 89 

Native Grapes, by N. Longworth 104 

Racking Wines, by L. Rehfuss 75 

Rot in Grapes, etc., by N. Longworth 100 

Soil for a Vineyard, by J. Williamson 84 

Spring and Summer Pruning, by Dr. Mosher 80 

Spring Pruning — Spur system, by G. Sleath 117 

Statistics of Vineyards 73 

Stemming and Mashing Grapes, by J. A. Corneau Ill 

Temperance and the Vine 93 

To the Members of the Wine Association, by L. Rehfuss 88 

Vineyards about Cincinnati, by N. Longworth 113 

" in Clarke County, Indiana, by T. W. Gibson 116 



STRAWBERRY. 

Preface 119 

Culture, etc., by N. Longworth 121 

« " " 123 

Report of Committee to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society 131 

" " 135 

Experiment, etc., by G. W. Huntsman 139 



CULTURE OF THE GRAPE 



THE VINEYARD. 



In establishing a Vineyard, it is a matter of much impor- 
tance to select the right 

POSITION AND SOIL. 

A hill side with a southern aspect is preferred, although an 
eastern or western exposure is nearly as good. Some have 
recommended the north, on account of safety from late spring 
frosts, but it will scarcely afford sun enough to ripen the 
grapes in cold, wet seasons (if the declivity is steep), and 
may perhaps be more subject to " the rot." Any undulating 
surface, if dry, is preferable to a level one. 

The soil best suited for a vineyard, is a dry calcareous 
loam — with a porous subsoil — not retentive of moisture; if 
mixed with some gravel or small stones, so much the better. 
Some prefer a sandy soil with a gravelly substratum ; as in 
this the grapes are less subject to rot ; the juice however is 
not so rich, — lacking in saccharine matter, — and in dry sea- 
sons the vines will suffer from the drought, shedding their 
leaves prematurely, and preventing the grapes from ripening 
well. In warm, sandy soils, the fruit-buds on the vines, if 
swelled prematurely in autumn, are sometimes killed by the 
frosts of a severe winter. 

Any soil underlaid by a stiff wet clay, is to be avoided, as 
also wet or spongy lands. No trees should be allowed to 
grow within one hundred feet of the vineyard. 

(9) 



10 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

For a further illustration of this subject see Mr. William- 
son's letter, in the Appendix. 

PREPARING THE GROUND. 

In autumn or early winter, dig or trench the ground all 
over, 2 to 2J feet deep, with the spade — this is far better 
than plowing — turn the top soil under ; the surface will be 
mellowed by the frosts of winter. 

Wet spots in the vineyard may be drained by small stone 
culverts, or by what is termed a French drain, a ditch, with 
some loose stones thrown into it edgewise, covered with flat 
ones, and filled up with the earth again. Surface draining 
may be obtained by concave sodded avenues of 10 feet wide, 
and intersecting each other at 100 or 120 feet, thus throwing 
the vineyard into squares of that size. This will do for gen- 
tle declivities ; but steep ones must be terraced, or benched 
with sod or stone, which is more expensive. These benches 
should be as broad as they can be made conveniently, and 
with a slight inclination to the hill, that they may be drained 
by stone or wooden gutters, running into the main trunks, to 
carry off the water without washing away the soil. This is 
important, and requires good judgment and skill. 

PLANTING. 

Much diversity of opinion exists, as to the proper distance 
of planting the vines apart in the rows. Our native varieties, 
with their long joints, large foliage, and luxuriant growth, 
certainly require more room to grow than the short jointed 
vines of the Rhine. Hence it is supposed, that our German 
vine-dressers have sometimes erred, in planting too close in 
this country, — 3^- by 4 ; 4 by 4 ; 4 by 4 J, &c. For steep 
hill sides, 3|- by 4J-, or 3 by 5 may answer, but for gentle 
slopes 3^ by 6 is close enough, and for level land, 4 by 7. 
This will admit sun and air to mature the fruit, and leave a 
liberal space for the roots to grow. 



PLANTING. 1 1 



Lay off the vineyard carefully with a line, and put down a 
stick some 15 inches long, where each vine is to grow. Dig 
a hole about a foot deep, and plant two cuttings to each stick, 
in a slanting position, separated 6 or 8 inches at the bottom, 
and 1 inch at the top of the hole ; throw in a shovel full of 
rich vegetable mould, from the woods, to make the roots 
strike freely ; let the top eye of the cuttings be even with the 
surface of the ground, and cover with half an inch of 
light mould, if the weather is dry. Leave the hole at 
the lower part about two-thirds full, until midsummer ; then 
fill up. 

If both the cuttings grow, take up one of them the follow- 
ing spring, or cut it off under ground, as but one vine should 
be left to each stake. 

To prepare the cuttings for planting, bury them in the earth 
when pruned from the vines, and by the latter end of March, 
or early in April, which is the right time for planting, the 
buds will be so swelled, as to make them strike root with 
great certainty. 

Each cutting should contain at least four joints, and be 
taken from wood well ripened ; if a small part of the old wood 
is left on the lower end, so much the better ; cut them off 
close below the lower joint, and about an inch above the 
upper. Set out some extra cuttings in a nursery to replace 
failures in the vineyard. 

Some good vine-dressers have recommended planting with 
roots one or two years old, but the experience of others is in 
favor of planting at once with cuttings in the vineyard ; the 
vine being never disturbed by removal makes the more thrifty 
and permanent plant. 

Of course the planting should only be made when the 
ground is warm and dry, or mellow. 

Persons residing at a distance from vineyards, had better 
procure roots one year old, as the cuttings are apt to suffer 
from transportation. 



12 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING CUTTINGS IN A NURSERY. 

When pruned from the vines, the cuttings should be tied 
in bundles of 100 or 200, and placed in a cool cellar, until 
the ground is prepared for planting. 

Dig a trench, in spaded ground, about a foot deep, slanting 
to the surface, the length of the cuttings. Place the cuttings 
5 or 6 inches apart, the top eye just above ground. Cover 
the lower joints with good rich mould, and fill up with the 
earth thrown from the trench. Keep them clear of weeds in 
the summer, and in dry weather water occasionally. 

TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG VINEYARD. 

The first year, keep the ground clean and free from weeds, 
with the hoe ; many use the plow, as being more expe- 
ditious and economical, but the more careful vine-dressers 
who can afford it, never cultivate with the plow, using only 
the two-pronged German hoe, made especially for the 
purpose. 

The earth should be stirred around the young vines, two 
or three times during the season, to promote their growth ; 
superfluous shoots must be pulled off, leaving but one or two 
to grow, at first, and but one eventually. 

In the spring, cut the young vine down to a single eye, or 
bud ; at first, if two are left for greater safety, take off one, 
afterward ; drive a stake six or seven feet long firmly to each 
plant. Locust or cedar is preferred, but oak or black walnut, 
charred at the end, driven into the earth, or coated with coal 
tar, will, it is said, last nearly as long. Keep the young vine 
tied neatly to the stake with rye or wheat straw — pick off all 
suckers, and let but one stalk or cane grow. The vineyard 
must be kept clean of weeds, and the young vines hoed as 
before. 

The second spring after planting, cut down to two or three 
eyes, or joints, and the third year to four or five ; pinching 
off laterals, tieing up, and hoeing the vines as recommended 



SPRING PRUNING. 13 

above. Replant from the nursery, where the cuttings have 
failed to strike root in the vineyard. 

The third year, the vines will produce a few grapes, some- 
times enough to pay the expenses of attending them. Train 
two canes to the stake this year, take off laterals, and keep 
well hoed. 

The vineyard having now commenced to bear, may be 
considered as fairly established ; and for the fourth and suc- 
cessive years, the following treatment is generally adopted. 

SPRING PRUNING. 

This is usually done from the middle of February to the 
first week in March. Some prune in January, and Mr. Schu- 
man has recommended November and December, as the 
proper time. No serious injury to the vines, by winter prun- 
ing, has yet been discovered. The writer pruned many of 
his vines in November and December, last year, and they 
escaped unscathed through the hardest winter known in this 
climate for many years. 

PruniDg, the fourth year, requires good judgment, as the 
standard stem, or stalk, has to be established. 

Select the best shoot or cane of last year, and cut it down 
to six or eight joints, and fasten it to the adjoining stake in a 
horizontal position, or bend it over in the form of a hoop or 
bow, and tie it to its own stake. The ties should be of wil- 
low. This is the bearing wood. The other cane, cut down 
to a spur of two or three eyes, to make bearing wood for 
the next season. 

Mr. Schuman remarks in his treatise, " There are various 
methods of training adopted. Some tie the shoot up to the 
stake with two or three ties at proportionate distances. 

" The greater part of the German vine-planters make cir- 
cular bows with three ties, and another mode is to make half- 
circle bows. I recommend the latter as the best and proceed 
to describe it. 



14 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

" Give the shoot the first tie on the stake nine inches 
from the ground, and the second, nine inches above it ; 
then bow it over to the neighboring stake in a horizontal 
position, and give it the third tie to that stake, at the top of 
the vine." 

In the succeeding, and all subsequent years, cut away the 
old bearing wood, and form the new bow, or arch, from the 
best branch of the new wood of the last year, leaving a spur 
as before, to produce bearing wood for the coming year, thus 
keeping the old stalk of the vine down to within eighteen to 
twenty-four inches from the ground. The vine is then always 
within reach, and control. 

The experience of the writer is in favor of the bow system; 
bending the top of the branch in a circular form, to within 
three or four inches of its stake, and fastening it with a wil- 
low tie, or twig, to the stake, — having made two ties pre- 
viously, one at the lower part, the other at the middle of the 
bow. From this bow the crop of grapes is to be produced, 
and often a bearing cane for the next year. 

The spur will bear a few bunches of grapes, but the 
bearing wood, for the ensuing year, is generally trained 
from it. 

Mr. Sleath has adopted a new method of training, which 
will be found in the Appendix. 

The best time for tying the vines to the stake is when the 
sap begins to swell the buds and make them look white — 
from the middle of March to the first week in April. Then in 
damp or wet weather, the bow can be formed by a slight twist 
of the branch, and fastened to the stake without breaking. 
This requires to be done carefully. 

See the Appendix for an excellent article on spring and sum- 
mer pruning from Dr. S. Mosher, President of the Cincinnati 
Horticultural Society. 

Should a vine be lost after the vineyard is in bearing, it 
can be replaced by a layer from the adjoining vine, which 



SUMMER PRUNING. 15 



is a much better mode than planting a young vine. The 
layers may be put down late in summer, but spring is 
preferred. 

Cultivate the yellow, and the osier willow, to make ties for 
the spring pruning. They will grow in any wet place. 

SUMMER PRUNING. 

Consists in removing suckers, and pinching off all lateral 
shoots, leaving but two stalks or canes to be trained for bearing 
wood the ensuing year, and pinching off the ends of the 
bearing branches, about the time of blossoming, some two or 
three joints beyond, or above the last blossom bunch ; pull 
no leaves off the bearing branches, and but very few from any 
other. As the vines grow, tie them neatly to the stakes, with 
rye straw (some use grass), and when they reach the top, 
train them from one stake to the other, until the fruit has 
nearly matured ; the green ends may then be broken off. If 
this is done too early, there is danger of forcing out the fruit- 
bearing buds for the next year, and of injuring the grapes in 
ripening. 

Some of our cultivators are averse to removing any lateral 
branches rom the fruit-bearing wood, — merely pinching off 
their ends. Others adopt close pruning, in summer, and even 
taking off some of the leaves of the bearing branches. Both 
these extremes are wrong. The experience of the writer is in 
favor of removing such lateral shoots as appear unnecessary to 
the growth or ripening of the fruit — to pinch off the ends of the 
bearing branches two, three, or four joints beyond the upper 
bunch of grapes — according to the number it bears — to take 
off all laterals from the bearing wood intended for the ensu- 
ing year ; and not to break off the ends of these branches at 
all (as has heretofore been done about the time the grapes 
began to color). The leaves are the lungs of the plant, and 
while it is necessary to remove suckers and laterals, to throw 
strength into the fruit and the bearing branches for next year, 
2 



16 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



a liberal supply of leaves should be left for the maturity of 
both. 

1. 2. 3. 4. 




To show spring and summer pruning, the above figures are inserted. 
Fig. 1. The vine second year before pruning. 
Fig. 2. " " third 
Fig. 3. " " fourth " pruned. 
Fig. 4. " " fourth " summer training. 

CULTURE. 

The vineyard must be kept perfectly clean from weeds and 
grass, and should be hoed twice during the spring and sum- 
mer. From the middle of April to the first week in May, is 
recommended as the best time for spring hoeing, and August 
for summer. 

The cultivator or the plow is less expensive, but the vines 
and roots are in danger of being injured by that mode of cul- 
ture ; therefore the hoe is preferred by those who can afford 
it. It has been recommended by some writers, to cut off 
the roots of the vines near the surface of the ground, and 
for four or five inches under, that the roots, when the 
vines are young, may be well established at a proper depth 
below. 

By others, this plan is thought to be injurious. The 






DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 17 



majority, however, prefer cutting off the surface roots for the 
first three or four years. 

About every third year, put in manure, by opening a trench 
the width of a spade, and four or five inches deep. Above 
and near each row, throw in two or three inches of well- 
rotted manure, and cover up with the earth. 

Another plan adopted, is to run a furrow with the plow, 
put in manure, and cover over, either with the plow or hoe. 

Others, again, scatter manure over the surface, and dig 
it in. 

An intelligent cultivator, J. A. Corneau, remarks : " High 
manuring is generally admitted to be injurious to the vinous 
quality of the Grape ; or, in other words, it accelerates a 
larger growth of wood, and a more attractive looking fruit, 
while the more essential qualities of the grape for Wine- 
making, are very much deteriorated. No substance should 
ever be used which has a tendency to ferment, or which, in 
undergoing a chemical change in the soil, would form an acid 
or a salt of a highly stimulating nature. Vegetable manures, 
bones, &c, may be used to advantage." Well rotted sta- 
ble yard manure has been used moderately by the writer, with 
good effects to the plants and the fruit, and without any per- 
ceptive injury to the " vinous quality of the grape." 

Dr. L. Rehfuss, President of the "Wine Growers' Asso- 
ciation," strongly recommends a light dressing of wood 
ashes to be dug in with the spring hoeing, to supply to the 
earth the alkalies taken up by the Grape, and to neutralize 
acidity in the soil, and consequently in the Wine. 

DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 

The "rot," as it is termed, is the great evil, especially in 
cultivating the Catawba. 

This takes place usually in the latter end of June or early 

in July, Dr. Warder says, " about the period of stoning," 

r "hardening of the seed," after continued heavy rains, and 



18 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



hot sweltering suns. It strikes, something like the rust in 
wheat, suddenly, and with the same disastrous effect to the 
crop. Various modes of prevention have been recommended, 
but none yet tried have proved effectual. 

The cause is supposed to be an excess of water about the 
roots of the vine, in any clay subsoil retentive of moisture ; 
sandy soils with a gravelly substratum, are generally exempt 
from this disease. 

The opinions of Mr. Elliott, Mr. Longworth, and the 
Fruit Committee of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, on 
this subject, are quoted. 

Mr. Elliott, in the Horticulturist, Vol. 2, p. 314, says: 
"The rot for the past three years has followed excessive rains 
in July and August. Dr. Flagg, two years since, found a 
small part of a vineyard where the rot was very slight ; (an 
experiment made by the writer of this Treatise), this had not 
been worked after the spring, and the ground was in such a 
state, that most of the rains passed off on the surface. Vines 
planted in rows eight feet apart, in one instance, were found 
not to be affected with rot, but very slightly. . . . The 
subject has been but little investigated, and therefore all can 
speculate." 

In the same article, page 319, Mr. Longworth says : "It 
is of late years only, that the rot has been so destructive 
among our grapes ; one thing is certain, if we had little or no 
rain after the grapes are fairly forward, we should see but 
little of the rot ; certain it is, it is continued rains, followed by 
a hot sun, that causes us to look out for the appearance of 
the rot." 

In the able report of Dr. Mosher, Mr. Ernst, and Mr. 
Kidd, the Fruit Committee of the Society for 1848, it is re- 
marked : " Some vineyards were injured by the wet weather 
in July, causing the grapes to rot and fall off : this, however, 
seems to have been confined to situations where the air had 
not a free circulation, allowing fogs and vapors to remain too 



DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 19 

long upon the vines in hot weather, as well as to a tenacious, 
clayey soil ; on dry and more airy situations, and where the 
ground was thoroughly drained, the crop has been fine and 
fair." 

H. W. S. Cleveland, of Burlington, N. J., who has a 
vineyard of two to three acres, and who, Mr. Downing says, 
is one of the most reliable horticulturists in the State, recom- 
mends covering the whole surface of the vineyard with 
shavings, leaves, or coarse grass, to prevent the ravages of 
insects, and diseases of the fruit — see Horticulturist, Vol. 3, 
p. 113. — In the same Vol., p. 121: "A Jerseyman," in 
summer pruning, put the leaves and young stems in a trench 
at the root of the vines — sprinkled gypsum on them, and 
covered over with earth. This was done at the suggestion 
of Mr. Downing, who strongly recommends it to vine-dress- 
ers on the Ohio, with a request that upon trial they " report 
progress." 

And at page. 161, of the same Vol., "B.," "of Chester 
Co., Pa.," recommends "special manures," as a certain spe- 
cific — having tried with success, a mixture of guano, gypsum, 
and wood ashes. 

Mr. Downing says to "J. D. Legare, Aiken, S. C," in 
the same Vol., p. 255 : " We note your experiment with ashes 
to prevent rot, but you must not decide against it with one 
year's trial. It has been found effectual here at the north, 
when used along with gypsum." 

Two years ago, the writer of this Treatise tried ashes on a 
small scale, but without Gypsum; a trench was dug above 
two rows, the width of a spade, some four inches deep, and 
two or three inches of leached ashes put in and covered over 
with earth. No beneficial effect was perceived. The two 
rows were slightly affected by the rot, as were those 
adjoining. 

Hoeing in autumn, and not stirring the ground at all in 
the spring and summer, but keeping the weeds cut down, and 



20 CULTURE OF THE GRAfE. 



the surface smooth, that the water may not sink, but pass off 
rapidly, has also been spoken of as a probable remedy 
against rot. 

Some persons even recommend letting the weeds grow : to 
say the least of it, this would be slovenly culture. 

With a view to test the advantages of wide planting, and 
high training, in preventing the rot, Mr. Were has planted 
on his farm, near Cheviot, eleven acres in the Catawba grape, 
twenty feet apart in the rows each way, and the vines are 
trained to locust stakes twelve feet high. Last year they 
produced fruit for the first time, and were entirely free from 
rot. But here it must be remarked, that the first crop, from 
young vines, is generally but little affected by that disease. 
Mr. Were also cultivated the ground between the rows, for 
other purposes. 

In 1 850 there was scarcely any rot, and crops averaged about 
four hundred gallons to the acre. In 1851 the frost on the 
second of May destroyed two-thirds of the grape-buds, and 
the crop of grapes, a very small one, was almost entirely 
clear of rot. The past two seasons were drier than the four 
or five preceding them. 

That the rot, or a similar disease of the grape, existed in 
the earlier ages, may be inferred from the following passage 
in Malachi, c. iii, v. 11 — "Neither shall the vine cast her 
fruit, before the time, in the field." 

The reader is referred to two articles from the pen of Mr. 
Longworth, in the Appendix, for his views on this subject. 
Oct. 21, 1848, and Feb. 18th, 1850. 

The "mildew" comes earlier in the season, when the 
grapes are about one-fourth grown, blighting occasionally a 
few bunches, and sometimes only the lower end. It is 
neither common nor destructive. The Isabella is much more 
subject to mildew than the Catawba, and the Cape is seldom 
affected by this disease. 

The ". speck," by some persons mistaken for the rot, and 



DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 21 

by others called the bitter rot, is a large circular spot on the 
side of the grape, looking as if caused by the sting of an 
insect, and extending to the seed on one side of the berry, 
while the other is uninjured ; but owing to this wound, or 
speck, the juice will be bitter. This has been attributed to 
the action of the sun on the fruit when covered with rain or 
dew-drops. 

The vine is so remarkably healthy, and of such luxuriant 
growth in almost any proper soil, that diseases at the root are 
almost unknown here. Mr. Schuman states that a white 
worm resembling the peach-tree worm, is sometimes found 
eating off the young roots of the vine, and Mr. Mottier has 
also found and destroyed it — but it is rarely met with in 
vineyards. 

The Insects found most annoying, are a green worm that 
feeds on the vines just as the fruit-buds appear, and before 
they blossom, eating off the tender bunches, and doing great 
mischief if not promptly destroyed. The Canker, or Measur- 
ing Worm (of which the above may be a variety) is some- 
times found on the leaves and young shoots. The Curculio, 
so destructive to the plum, has occasionally been found on 
the grapes ; they can be readily shaken down on a sheet, by 
a sudden blow on the stake, and destroyed. If ever per- 
mitted to get domesticated in a vineyard, this insect would be 
immensely destructive. 

The Rose-bug, Dr. Shaler says, has been observed in 
some vineyards in Kentucky, but it is rarely met with 
here. 

For the last two years, an insect resembling the rose-bug, 
but smaller, and of the same family (melolontha) , has been 
discovered in several vineyards in this vicinity, eating off the 
upper surface of the leaf, and causing the veinous fibers left 
to look like a sieve. The writer destroyed those in his vine- 
yard, last year, by shaking them off the vines into buckets 
partly filled with strong lime-water. This was accomplished 



22 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

in a week, killing three hundred to four hundred thousand 
from six acres, at an expense of twenty-seven dollars. 

Next year they will scarcely be so numerous in this vine- 
yard. 

A large brown beetle, or bug, will frequently sting the young 
tender branches of the vine in summer, making a wound that 
subjects the branch to be broken off by strong winds. They 
can be watched and picked off, late in the evening or early in 
the morning. All horticulturists are familiar with the spring 
and early fall caterpillar, and of course, would not permit 
either to get a foothold in the vineyard. 

Mr. N. W. Thatcher, of Chillicothe, sent last summer to 
the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, specimens of a small 
variety of curculio, which he had found to injure his grapes, 
like the plum, by depositing ova. 

Frost. Late spring frosts have some years, but not often, 
been highly injurious, especially to vineyards near small 
streams of water, damp woods, or in cold situations. The 
most severe within the memory of the writer, occurred on the 
nights of the 26th of April, 1834; 9th May, 1838; 7th May, 
1845, and the 15th April, 1849. 

In the three first named years, the buds had so far put out, 
that their loss was not replaced by the pushing out, subse- 
quently, of the latent or twin bud, which partially overcame 
the loss of the first, in the latter year, 1849. These frosts, 
therefore, nearly destroyed the crop, in situations near 
moisture. 

A more destructive frost than either of the above, occurred 
on the morning of the second of May, 1851 — destroying all 
the fruit, and about two-thirds of the grape-buds. This frost 
gave us one test, and proved conclusively, that the grape is 
the hardiest of all our fruits, not even excepting the apple. 

In warm sandy lands, with a gravelly substratum, the buds 
are in some years pushed forward prematurely by warm 
autumns, so as to be killed by severe frosts in winter. 



VARIETIES OF GRAPES AND WINES. 23 

Out of eighty-three vineyards in this county in 1845, Dr. 
Flagg reported twenty-one much injured by the frost. 

Hailstorms have in some years injured our grape crop, but 
they are generally confined to a small strip of country, and 
have seldom extended to more than eight or ten vineyards 
in this county in any one year. The leaves of the vine are a 
partial protection to the fruit. 

VARIETIES OF GRAPES CULTIVATED, AND WINE MADE FROM 
THEM. 

1. The Catawba is our great wine grape, and stands with- 
out a rival. Mr. Longworth has offered five hundred dollars 
reward for a better native variety, and several new seedlings 
have been produced, but its equal has not yet been found. It 
is subject to rot. 

Wine; varying from a clear water color to straw color and 
pink ; of a fine fruity aroma ; makes an excellent champagne, 
and a good dry hock. Requires no sugar in fermentation, if 
the grapes are well ripened. In the Horticulturist, Vol. 2, p. 
317, Mr. Longworth states: — " Maj. Adlum had a proper 
appreciation of the value of the Catawba grape. In a letter 
to me, he remarked : — ' In bringing this grape into public 
notice, I have rendered my country a greater service than I 
would have done, had I paid off the National debt.' I con- 
cur in his opinion." 

2. Cape ; this old favorite of former days, is now almost 
displaced by the Catawba. It is still cultivated in some vine- 
yards, but not extensively — a very hardy variety and but 
little affected by the rot. 

Makes a good wine, resembling claret — requires some sugar 
to be added in fermentation. 

3. Isabella, a variety much esteemed in some of the 
Eastern States, particularly about the city of New York — 
where it ripens better than here. It is almost abandoned as 
a wine grape, and generally cultivated only for table use ; a 

3 



24 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

hardy variety, subject less to rot than to mildew — in some 
seasons ripens badly. 

Wine sometimes good, and resembling a light Madeira — 
requires a good deal of sugar in the fermentation ; say 
eighteen to twenty-four ounces to the gallon of juice, or 
" must." 

4. Bland's Madeira ; a delicious table grape, resembling 
the Catawba in its appearance. Too tender for vineyard cul- 
ture in this climate. On arbors, in sheltered situations, it 
bears well. 

5. Ohio, or Cigar Box, is a fine table grape, bunches very 
large and shouldered, berries small, black, sweet, and without 
pulp ; does well on arbors or trellises, but will scarcely an- 
swer for the vineyard culture — requires long pruning. 

Wine ; dark red, inferior in flavor when new, but improves 
by age. 

6. Lenoir ; a black grape, bunches large and compact, 
sometimes shouldered, without pulp, berries small, black, 
sweet and palatable. Subject, in clay soils, to mildew and rot. 

7. Missouri ; fruit black, bunches loose and of medium 
size, berries without pulp, sweet and agreeable. Sometimes 
cultivated in vineyards ; a good variety for wine. 

Wine; " makes an excellent wine, somewhat resembling 
Madeira." 

8. Norton's Seedling ; bunches of medium size, compact, 
shouldered, berries small, purple, sweet, but with a pulp. 

Wine; inferior. 

9. Herbemont's Madeira ; a good wine, and a pleasant 
table grape ; bunches medium size, berries small, black, and 
without pulp. 

Wine ; pink or light red, resembling in flavor the Spanish 
Manzanilla. 

10. Minor's Seedling ; a new grape of the Fox family. 
Fruit ; bunches medium size, berries large, pulpy, musky, 
and rich flavored, very hardy ; but little subject to rot. 



VARIETIES OF GRAPES AND WINES. 25 

Wine; too musky and high flavored to be pleasant, with- 
out mixing with other kinds. 

This grape will probably be found a valuable variety for 
the vineyard. 

1 1 . White Catawba ; a new seedling from the Catawba, 
but far inferior to the parent. 

Bunches medium size, shouldered, berries white, large, 
round, and pulpy — in taste like the Fox Grape. 
Wine; not tested. 

12. Mammoth Catawba; another new seedling, re- 
sembling the Catawba in color, but not so well flavored. 
Bunches large, shouldered, berries very large, round, pulpy — 
in some seasons subject to fall off before ripening. 

Wine ; not tested. 

Mr. Longworth, in a letter to the Cincinnati Horticultural 
Society, remarks: — "I have for thirty years experimented 
on the foreign grape, both for the table and for wine. In the 
acclimation of plants, I do not believe ; for the White Sweet 
Water does not succeed as well with me, as it did thirty 
years since. I obtained a large variety of French grapes 
from Mr. Loubat, many years since. They were from the vi- 
cinity of Paris and Bourdeaux. From Madeira, I obtained 
six thousand vines of their best wine grapes. Not one was 
found worthy of cultivation in this latitude, and were rooted 
from the vineyards. As a last experiment, I imported seven 
thousand vines from the mountains of Jura, in the vicinity of 
Salins, in France. At that point the vine region suddenly 
ends, and many vines are there cultivated on the north side 
of the mountain, where the ground is covered with snow the 
whole winter, from three to four feet deep. Nearly all lived, 
and embraced about twenty varieties of the most celebrated 
wine grapes of France. But after a trial of five years, all 
have been thrown away. I also imported samples of wine 
made from all the grapes. One variety alone, the celebrated 



26 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

Arbois wine, which partakes slightly of the Champagne char- 
acter, would compete with our Catawba. 

"If we intend cultivating the grape for wine, we must rely- 
on our native grapes, and new varieties raised from their 
seed. If I could get my lease of life renewed for twenty or 
thirty years, I would devote my attention to the subject, and 
I would cross our best native varieties with the best table and 
wine grapes of Europe. We live in a great age. Discoveries 
are daily made that confound us, and we know not where we 
shall stop. We are told of experiments in mesmerism, as 
wonderful as the grinding over system would be; but I fear 
the discovery will not be brought to perfection in time to an- 
swer my purpose, and I must leave the subject with the 
young generation. 

" I have heretofore wanted faith in the doctrine of French 
Horticulturists, that to improve your stock of pears, you must 
not select the seed of the finest fruit, but of the natural choke 
pear. I am half converted to their views. The Catawba is 
clearly derived from the common Fox grape. In raising 
from its seed, even white ones are produced, but I have not 
seen one equal to the parent plant, and in all, the white down 
on the under side of the leaf, and the hairs on the stalk, 
common to the wild Fox grape, are abundant." 

DURABILITY OF A VINEYARD. 

The oldest vineyard in this county is one of Mr. Long- 
worth's, on Baldface. 

It was planted twenty-seven years ago, on ground trenched 
with the spade two feet deep. It is still in vigorous bearing, 
and has nothing to contend with, but the rot in wet seasons. 

Several other vineyards in the county are from fifteen to 
eighteen, and a few, twenty years old. 

Dr. Mosher in an able article on Grape Culture, in the 
"Farmer and Gardener," Vol. 5, p. 206, says : 



THE WINE PRESS. 27 



" Vineyards planted at Vevay, in Indiana, by the Swiss, 
merely on deeply plowed ground, failed in fifteen years. 
When the ground is plowed eighteen inches deep, it may 
bear tolerably well for twenty years ; but a vineyard planted 
on ground well trenched two feet deep, and properly drained 
and cultivated, may be expected to last fifty or one hundred 
years, or perhaps more. The crop, also, is much more cer- 
tain when the ground is well trenched, not being so liable to 
suffer from droughts or rainy seasons." 

Mr. Mottier is of the opinion that fifty years is as long as 
a vineyard will last in this country, even with the best at- 
tention. 

TO RESTORE PREMATURE DECAY IN A VINEYARD. 

It has been suggested, that when the ground was prepared 
originally with the plow, and the vines planted too close to- 
gether, the vineyard might be restored to vigorous bearing, 
by taking up every other vine in the close planted rows, and 
trenching the ground for half the distance between the rows 
two and a half feet deep. How far the partial root pruning 
thus given to the vines might affect them, is uncertain. The 
experiment might be tried on a small scale. 

The old system of renewing worn out vineyards, by 
trenching between each row, and forming new plants from 
layers, is a good one ; but two or three seasons are lost in 
adopting that method. 



MAKING WINE. 



THE WINE PRESS 



Is made somewhat like a "screw cider press." An iron 
screw, three or four inches in diameter is used — either in a 
strong upright frame, or coming up through the center of 
the platform (the latter is the cheapest, and most simole in 



28 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

construction). A strong, tight, box platform six or seven 
feet square, of two or three inch plank, six or eight inches 
high at the sides, is wedged into heavy timbers ; and, in this, a 
box of one and a quarter inch boards, five or six feet square, 
perforated with holes near the lower edge, ten or twelve 
inches high at the sides (made to be readily taken apart), is 
placed to contain the mashed grapes. Boards to fit loosely 
inside of this box, and lay on top of the pile of mashed 
grapes (or "cheese" as cider-makers call it) and pieces of 
scantling to lay across to receive the pressure, complete the 
press. 

The power is applied by a strong lever attached to the nut 
or female screw, and the juice runs out through a hole, with 
a spout, in front of the platform, into a large receiving tub. 

N. B. Doctor Warder suggests an improvement, adopted 
by Mr. Rentz, in his wine press. Inch strips are placed on 
the platform, and boards perforated with holes, laid on them 
as a bottom for the box that contains the mashed grapes. 

GATHERING AND PRESSING THE GRAPES. 

The grapes should remain on the vines until very ripe, 
" dead ripe" as some express it. Pick off all decayed or un- 
ripe berries from the bunches, which are then bruised in a 
mashing tub (a vessel like an inverted churn), or passed 
through a small wooden mill, breaking the skins and pulp, 
but not the seeds. They are then emptied into the press, and 
the screw applied, until the pulp and skins are pressed dry, 
or all the juice is extracted. The outside of the cheese has 
to be cut off two or three times, and thrown on the top, and 
re-pressed, in order to extract all the juice. The juice or 
" must" as it is called, is then put into clean casks in a cool 
cellar, for fermentation. 

Everything connected with the making of wine, requires 
great care and neatness. The press, vessels and casks, must be 
perfectly clean ; and, in short, as much attention to cleanli- 



GATHERING AND PRESSING GRAPES. 29 

ness must be observed, as in making butter, else the wine 
will lose the fine fruity aroma and favor of the grape, which 
is to give it character and make it sell. 

It is now generally admitted that stemming the grapes, is a 
great advantage to the wine. The writer has adopted a 
cheap and simple method, which, if not as mechanical as 
Mr. Corneau's, yet answers the purpose very well: — A 
wire screen of an oblong square form, with meshes of three 
quarters of an inch, is placed to slide on a slight frame, over 
a large receiving tub; on .this screen the mashed grapes are 
poured from the mashing tubs, — with a few vigorous slides 
and shakes, the pulp and skins fall through the sieve, leaving 
the stems on its surface. The stems comprise about one- 
tenth of a measured bushel of unstemmed grapes. 

The "pummies" (skins and seeds after being pressed) is 
thrown on the manure pile ; or, distilled, to make brandy. 

Mr. Longworth says, "To insure success we must ob- 
serve great care in selecting the fruit. Select good sweet 
casks, and use cleanliness in expressing the juice, and skill in 
the process of manufacture and preservation of the wine. 
Keep it in a cool cellar, cask tight, and carefully rack the 
same yearly, till the wine is perfectly fine, and fit for bottling ; 
for wines, that have no alcohol added, require tight casks 
and cool cellars, to keep them sound. They are less subject 
to run into the acetous fermentation with us, than they are 
in France and Germany. To the ropiness of which they 
complain, our wine is not subject. It is a common saying in 
France and Germany, that 'a poor man cannot make good 
wine.' The reason is obvious. The rich man not only has 
more influence in obtaining favorable opinions, but he also 
uses more care and skill in the manufacture. The poor man 
must sell his wine as soon as made. The rich man retains it 
till it is improved by age, and never sells any under his own 
name, but that which proves to be of superior quality. The 
vintage of bad years, is sold without a name. So much de- 



30 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

pends on manufacture and reputation in Europe, that wine 
from the same variety of grape, and the vines divided by a 
footpath in the same vineyard, have very different reputa- 
tions. The one will bring eighteen dollars per dozen, where 
its neighbor will not command three dollars. Many com- 
mence the manufacture at the lowest price, and in a few 
years, by great care and skill, command the highest." 

In the Horticulturist of January last, a writer from Mis- 
sissippi recommends the use of whisky barrels, in wine-making. 
Perhaps they might answer in Mississippi, but it would be a 
great mistake to use them here. The taste of the whisky 
would destroy the flavor of our Catawba grape, — which we 
prize so highly in our wine, — and render it unsalable. To 
avoid giving any extraneous taste to the wine, the casks 
should be at first, new, filled up with pure water, and soaked 
for ten or fifteen days ; then, well scalded out, and fumigated 
with sulphur. In using them afterward, they should be 
thoroughly cleansed every year, before the wine is put into 
them to ferment. 

FERMENTATION. 

This process as generally pursued here, is very simple. 
The casks are filled up within five or six inches of the 
bung, and the bung put on loosely. The gas escapes without 
the wine running over. Usually, in two to three weeks, the 
fermentation ceases, and the wine becomes clear; then Jill up 
the casks and tighten the bungs. 

In February or March, rack off the wine into clean casks 
and bung tight. 

A second, but moderate fermentation, will take place late 
in the spring ; after that the wine fines itself, and is ready for 
sale ; and if the casks are kept well filled, and the bungs 
tight, it will improve by age for many years. Use no brandy 
or sugar, if the grapes are sound and well ripened. 

Since the above was written an improvement has been 
adopted by many, in the fermentation of wines. — When the 



FERMENTATION. 3 1 



must is put into the cask, and the cask filled within an eighth 
or tenth of its capacity, (to leave room for fermentation) — a 
tin syphon is fitted tight into the bung, -with the end of the 
tube in a bucket of water, thus permitting the gas to escape 
through the water, without the wine coming in contact with 
the atmospheric air. Some of the strength and of the fruity 
aroma is thus retained in the wine, that would otherwise 
escape by exposure in the methods formerly pursued. 

The safest method of keeping this wine is in bottles, well 
corked and sealed, and laid on their sides in a cool place. 

The fewer rackings it receives, and the less it is exposed to 
the air, the sweeter and better it will keep ; retaining the fine 
aroma and flavor of the grape, and acquiring but little acidity. 
It will do to bottle in about a year after it is made, but two 
years would be better. Never bottle before the second fer- 
mentation. 

Racking but once, as here recommended, is in opposi- 
tion to the opinion of Dr. Rehfuss, who proposes at least three 
or four. 

The writer has tried both plans, and prefers his own, as 
producing a wine of less acidity than when exposed to the air 
by frequent rackings. The Doctor is an able chemist, and 
has doubtless good arguments for his theory. Further experi- 
ments may prove that his mode is the best. 

As the process of fermentation is a matter of the greatest 
importance in making wine, the reader is referred to the 
Appendix, for an able article on the subject, from the pen of 
Mr. Julius Brace. 

Persons desirous of making a variety of wines from the 
same grape, may do so by adopting the following methods : 
The juice, or " must," that runs from the mashed grapes, as 
poured on the press, is put into one cask — that which comes 
from the first pressing, into another, and the juice obtained 
by the second and last pressings, into a third cask — the quan- 
tity of must in each will be about equal, and the wine different 



32 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



in quality, as in the order above stated. A fourth variety may 
be made of a rich claret color, by fermenting in the skins ; and 
by a greater or less fermentation the quality may be varied. 
These last will be too rough and astringent, when new, to 
suit the public taste, but will become rich and palatable when 
mellowed by age. 

The common practice is to put all the must together in the 
same cask, believing that the whole of the juice of the grape 
is required to make a fair average wine. 

This has been the custom with the writer, except that the 
lost pressing, being weak and astringent, is mixed with the 
must of the refuse grapes, and sold as an inferior wine — usu- 
ally at half price. 

The quality of wines differs with the seasons, a warm, dry 
summer and autumn are more propitious to maturing the 
grape than a wet one, hence the variation in wines of different 
vintages. 1846, 1848, and 1851 were remarkably favorable 
in this respect. 

We have much to learn yet in the art of making wines, and 
doubtless will be progressing in that knowledge for many 
years.' We have a noble material to work upon in our Ca- 
tawba grape, and if we do not improve, American ingenuity 
will for once be at fault. 

In the valuable work on wines by Cyrus Redding, second 
edition, London, 1836, at page 42, will be found the following 
method of making a sweet wine, by arresting the fermenta- 
tion with sulphur and spirits : 

" In the south of France a quantity of wine is made called 
muet, for which the grapes are trodden and pressed at the 
vintage, and the wine is fined immediately, to prevent fer- 
mentation. This wine, or rather must, is next poured into a 
barrel until it is only a fourth part filled ; above the surface 
of the liquid several sulphur matches are then burned, and 
the bung closed upon the fumes. The cask is now violently 
shaken until the sulphurous gas is absorbed, so that none 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 33 

escapes on opening the bung. More must is then added, and 
fresh sulphur, and the cask treated as before. This is re- 
peated several times, until the cask is full. This must never 
ferments ; it has a sweetish flavor and a strong smell of sul- 
phur. A quantity of proof spirit is now added, and a wine 
highly spiritous is the product. It is generally employed to 
give strength, sweetness, and durability to wines which lack 
these qualities." 

It is to be hoped that so unwholesome a compound may 
never be prepared and sold here under the name of wine, and 
that our Catawba may not be discredited by such mixtures. 

CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 

The wine has suffered much from want of skill, and care- 
ful attention in making it, as well as from neglect, in not 
keeping it in cool cellars ; but, that it can be made good, and 
when so made, enjoys a high reputation both at home and 
abroad, the following extracts will clearly show. 

At the autumnal exhibition of the Cincinnati Horticultural 
Society in 1843, the committee, after passing judgment on 
the wines exhibited, remark : ' " The committee have great 
confidence in saying, that these fine specimens of pure native 
wines, have placed it beyond a doubt, that the time is not far 
distant, when our surrounding hills will be as celebrated for 
good wine, as any part of the valley of the Rhine." 

At the conclusion of a very able report by Dr. Flagg-, 
chairman of the same committee, May 2, 1846, an analysis 
of wines by Dr. Chapman, is given : 

I. Catawba, from N. Longworth's vintage, 1845, alcohol 
11.5, water 88.5 — equal 100. 

II. Catawba, from Rentz's vintage, 1845, alcohol 11, 
water, 89— equal 100. 

III. Hockheimer, Rhine wine, seven years old, alcohol 7.5, 
water 92.5 — equal to 100. 



34 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



IV. Red wine (Cape), P. Bate's vintage, 1845, alcohol 
9.12, water 90.88— equal 100. 

Showing a decided difference in favor of the American 
wine. 

The above wines were the pure juice of the grape. 

Mr. Longworth, Horticulturist, Vol. 2, p. 318, in an article 
to C. W. Elliot, written in 1 847, remarks : 

" My own impression is, that in skillful hands, our Catawba 
will make a wine superior in flavor and aroma to the best 
French champagne imported, or that manufactured in London 
from perry, or in New Jersey from cider and green corn. The 
aroma of the Catawba grape continues in the wine in all its 
stages. 

"I made the first Champagne five years since. It was 
produced by chance, and induced me to erect a building for 
the manufacture, and to send to France for a manufacturer ; 
I shall be content, if we can always make as fine a wine by 
design as was then made by accident." 

In a communication to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, 
Sept., 10, 1845, Mr. Longworth remarks : 

"We have prejudices to overcome, 'for a prophet is not 
honored in his own country.' 

"We become fond of the flavor of particular wines from a 
continued use of them, as some of our citizens have of the 
bilge-water taste of the Spanish Manzanilla. Our domestic 
wines have a flavor of their own, and with wine drinkers 
accustomed to the particular flavor of other wines, it will re- 
quire time to form a taste for them. It was so with our Ger- 
man population ; for a time they gave a decided preference 
to German wines. They now greatly prefer the domestic. 

" For the manufacture of a fine dry Hock, I consider the 
Catawba unrivaled. 

"But our Madeira and Sherry wine-bibbers would say, as 
Mr. Schultz's friends told him in Baltimore, thirty years 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 35 

since, when as a new article in this country, he gave them as 
a great treat, some old dry Hock. He said nothing, but 
looked around expecting to see smacking of lips, and hear 
exclamations of admiration. But the universal cry was, 
1 What a pity, Shultz, your cider is sour !' 

"At a comparison of domestic wines from our different 
vineyards, by a dozen of Hock-drinkers, selected for the occa- 
sion, the gentleman who acted as chief of the judges, was a 
great admirer of Spanish Manzanilla ; and with a view to test 
their judgment, I slipped in a bottle of his favorite wine. 
While his brethren were tasting the wine and expressing their 
opinions, their leader slowly tasted each bottle, but said not a 
word until he had tasted the whole. He then remarked that 
'he should reserve his opinion as to the best, but would 
promptly decide which was the worst bottle on the table,' 
and placed his hand on the Manzanilla. I told him I con- 
curred in his opinion, but he might change his mind when 
advised that it was his favorite Spanish wine, and from 
the same cask that he had always pronounced a superior 
article. 

" A gentleman from an Eastern city, a few evenings since, 
very gravely and sincerely gave me an instance which took 
place in his own presence. Their wine club had recently 
broached a pipe of high-priced wine, with which they were 
much delighted, until a conspicuous member observed that he 
detected a slight taste of copper — a brother member admitted 
a slight peculiar flavor, but insisted that it was leather. The 
president of the club was referred to, who promptly decided 
that it was a compound of both copper and leather. The 
debate waxed warm, and all three had their adherents, when 
it was decided to draw off the wine from the pipe in the pre- 
sence of the Society. This was done, and at the bottom, im- 
mersed in the sediment, was found a small copper key with a 
short strip of leather attached to it !" Mr. Longworth re- 
marks : "I presume the Eastern gentleman took it for 



36 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

granted that Don Quixote had never got as far west as our 
back woods." 

A gentleman in our own city, in whose judgment in wines 
great confidence was placed, could never be induced even to 
taste our domestic Hock, though a great admirer of the im- 
ported article. On two or three occasions I knew him to take 
a glass, and praise it highly ; but the moment that a smile 
from the host told him of his error, he backed out, readily 
discovered his error, and could not be induced to make a fur- 
ther trial. But on a certain occasion a friend invited him to 
dine with him, and drink a glass of superior Hock, recently 
sent him as a present. The bait took — the gentleman praised 
the wine highly, and pronounced it equal to any he had ever 
drank, and proved his sincerity by not leaving the table till 
he had two bottles under his belt ; and for the next month, 
never met his host without inquiring if all his fine wine was 
gone, and expressing a great desire to give it a second trial. 
After he was fairly committed, he was told that it was the na- 
tive Catawba. From that day he knocked under, and acknowl- 
edged his prejudices had blinded him." 

One of the most distinguished physicians and Horticulturists 
in the State, Dr. Kirtland, in his article on the cultivation of 
the grape, in the " Western Farmer," Vol. 3, p. 134 (1842), 
observes: — "The point has been satisfactorily settled, that 
the rich limestone formations in the south-western part of 
Ohio, are as well adapted to this purpose as any locality on 
the earth, unless it be in some volcanic regions enjoying a 
more uniform climate. Evidences abundant can be brought 
to sustain the position, that within half a century, Cincinnati 
will be celebrated for her ' vine clad hills.' 

" I look upon this subject with great interest in another 
point of view. During an extensive practice in the medical 
profession, for more than twenty-five years, I have frequently 
found it important to employ wine and other diffusable stimu- 
lants as medicines. Whatever other medical men may say or 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 37 

think of the matter, I must state, that I cannot in all instances 
find in the Materia Medica a substitute for them ; and while I 
am disposed to go as far as any one, in excluding strong 
drinks from the daily use of people in health, I must express 
my satisfaction, at finding we can produce in our own coun- 
try, a pure, healthy wine, well adapted to medicinal pur- 
poses, and far superior to the adulterated, poisonous foreign 
compounds, that often find their way to the bedsides of the 
sick, under the names of ' Lisbon,' ' Madeira,' &c. &c." 

In the Horticulturist, Vol. 1, p. 53, Mr. Downing says : — 
" Mr. Longworth of Cincinnati very obligingly sent us last 
month a case of American wine, the product of his vineyards 
on the banks of the Ohio. 

"We have been in the highest degree pleased with these 
wines. They severally are the product of the Catawba, Cape, 
Isabella, and Missouri grapes — all native sorts. The very 
best is the Catawba, of which we received samples of several 
vintages. The character of the wine is that of excellent 
hock, like the better class wines of the Rhine. 

H We sent a bottle of this Catawba wine to one of the old- 
est and most respectable wine houses in this country, Messrs. 
Binninger & Co., New York. These gentlemen wrote us in 
reply : — 'We are very much gratified in having an opportu- 
nity of tasting this wine, which is the first American wine 
that deserves the name of wine, that we have ever seen. It 
strongly resembles hock, and we should have pronounced it 
such.' " 

Mr. Downing farther says: — "These wines are entirely 
pure, without the addition of alcohol, and the temperance 
cause has everything to gain and nothing to lose, by a general 
production and consumption of such a wholesome beverage. 
This, every one familiar with the hock and claret districts of 
Europe, where ardent spirits are not used, will cheerfully 
bear testimony to. Indeed, until such wines can be produced, 
and afforded, as they soon will be, pure, and at low prices at 



38 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

home, only a small class of persons in this country will ever 
know what pure light wines really are ; what is sold as such 
by the retail dealers in the country generally, is so 
brandied and manufactured, as to become worse than ardent 
spirits itself.'* 

Dr. Flagg, in his report to the Cincinnati Horticultural 
Society for 1846, justly observes: — "I am confident that 
the introduction of pure light wine as a common beverage, 
will produce a great national and moral reform — one that 
will be received by our temperance brethren, ere long, as a 
national blessing — one that will complete the work they have 
already begun. The temperance cause is rapidly preparing 
public sentiment for the introduction of pure American wine. 
So long as public taste remains vitiated by the use of malt 
and alcoholic drinks, it will be impossible to introduce light, 
pleasant wines, except to a limited extent ; but just in pro- 
portion as strong drinks are abandoned, a more wholesome 
one will be substituted. Instead of paying millions to for- 
eigners, as we now do, for deleterious drinks, as brandy and 
wines, let us produce from our own hill-sides a wholesome 
beverage that will be within the reach of all, the poor as well 
as the rich." 

Mr. W. R. Prince, of New York, in his very able article 
on American Vineyards, in the Horticulturist, Vol. 1, p. 393, 
remarks : " The pure juice of the grape is an innocent 
beverage, grateful to our senses, and nourishing to the sys- 
tem. That man has abused and perverted its use, is no argu- 
ment against the article in its pure and natural state, for what 
gift of Providence is there, that has not been abused ? In 
every country where wine is produced in abundance, intem- 
perance is scarcely known, and in this respect the vine-growing 
countries will compare most favorably with their more north- 
ern neighbors, where alcoholic drinks so abound." 

President Jefeerson has recorded his opinion, that — "No 
nation is drunken where wine is cheap ; and none sober where 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 39 



the clearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the common 
beverage." 

Extracts from Reports of the Committee on Wines, to the 
Cincinnati Horticultural Society for 1843. 

Mr. Mottier's Catawba, vintage of 1837 — was adjudged 
the best. 

Mr. Resor's Catawba, of 1839, " a wine of good capacity," 
"by age, will become of a high character." 

Mr. Mottier's and Mr. Resor's " Cape" wines, highly 
spoken of. 

Report for 1844. The committee met at the house of the 
president. 

Thirty-nine bottles were exhibited ; some pronounced very 
fine, the preference given to the Catawba. A few bottles of 
foreign wines were intermingled, but generally detected, and 
pronounced inferior to the native. Private marks were 
placed on all the bottles, known only to the President and 
Secretary. 

This test was very creditable to the discrimination of the 
judges, and favorable to the quality of the native wines. 
Three gentlemen from wine countries in Europe, were added 
to the committee, Messrs. Were, Rehfuss, and Brachman, 
who fully concurred in the opinion of the superiority of the 
native wine. 

[See Farmer and Gardener, Vol. 5, p. 255.] 



At an examination of wines of the vintage of 1847, by the 
wine committee of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, in 
March 1848, thirty-six samples were presented, most of them 
of excellent quality. 

The prize of a silver cup was awarded to Mr. Schneicke, 
for the best Catawba wine ; a certificate to Dr. Mosher, for 
the second, and to Mr. Rentz, for the third best. 

A still larger number of samples was presented at the 
4 



40 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



examination by the committee, in April, 1849, of the vintage of 
1 848, viz: fifty-one bottles of Catawba wine. The silver cup was 
awarded to T. H. Yeatman, and Certificates to Messrs. 
Longworth and Buchanan, for the second and third best. 
The wines presented this year were pronounced " excellent," 
for new wines. 

Samples of wine from Herbemont's Madeira Grape, Cape, 
Minor's Seedling, Missouri, Ohio, Isabella, and Norton's 
Seedling, were presented by Mr. Longworth, and were 
ranked in quality by the judges, in the order here named. 



Report for 1846. ''The committee on American Wine 
having examined the specimens sent in to the Annual Exhi- 
bition of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, held September 
9th and 10th, beg leave to submit the following brief Report: 
" The number of specimens, although greater than at any 
former Exhibition, was not as large as might have been an- 
ticipated at this time, there being such an interest taken, and 
the amount of capital so great invested, in the cultivation of 
the vine, the annual product of which, in five years, cannot 
be less than one hundred thousand dollars to this county 
alone. In order to do ample justice, the specimens were 
removed to a good wine cellar, where they remained ten days 
before they were examined by the hydrometer, and every 
other necessary means taken to give impartial judgment." 

Class 1st. — No. 1. Pure wine; vintage 1845. Spec. 
grav. .78. A most excellent wine ; will improve by age. 

No. 2. Four oz. sugar to the gallon. Spec. grav. 76J. 
Much inferior to No. 1, the pure wine. 

Class 2d. — No. 1, with sugar; vintage 1841. Resembles 
some of the light Mediterranean wines ; does not bear com- 
parison with the pure wine. 

No. 2, with sugar ; vintage 1841. Resembles some of the 
imitations of Madeira. Spec. grav. .76. 

Class 3d. — No. 1. Pure wine ; vintage 1845. Spec. grav. 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 41 

.74. Good wine, rather acid ; thought not to have been put 
into perfectly sweet bottles. Not quite equal to No. 1, in 
class 1st. 

Class 4th. — No. 1. Pure wine ; vintage 1845. Not able 
to judge in consequence of its being pricked. 

No. 2. Pure wine ; vintage 1845. A fair light wine ; re- 
sembles some of the lower grades of French ; believed care 
was not taken in picking the grapes, and in fermentation. 

Class 5th. — No. 1. Pure wine; vintage 1845. Spec, 
grav. .75-|. A very superior wine ; resembles very much the 
white hermitage, which may be considered a very great com- 
pliment. This wine was made with great care ; the sound 
and perfect berries being picked from the stems, and every 
other necessary process received equal attention. 

Class 6th. — No. 1. Pure wine; vintage 1845. Spec, 
grav. .75. May have been originally good ; believed to have 
been put into an impure cask, which formerly contained for- 
eign wine, either French or German, which very much 
changed its flavor. 

Class 7th. — No. 1. Pure wine ; vintage 1845. Notable to 
judge, being pricked, and not properly treated. Perhaps part 
of the berries Avere unripe, and other necessary care not taken. 

Your committee would remark that great care and atten- 
tion are necessary in order to produce good pure wine ; much 
more so than any other agricultural product. The sound, 
perfect fruit should be kept separate from that which is im- 
perfect, and the wine never allowed to be put into anything 
but perfectly 'pure sweet casks or bottles ; as a very trifling ne- 
glect may cause a great loss on wine. Much also depends 
upon fermentation, which requires great attention, and after 
being completed, terminates the business of the cultivator. 

Some of the specimens for exhibition, were imitations of 
foreign wines, which your committee very much regret, being 
desirous to establish a character for American wine, which 
would soon be accomplished, by giving it a fair trial upon its 



42 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

own merits. If American wine should ever become a substi- 
tute for the present poisonous and unwholesome drinks, it must 
be done by keeping and using it perfectly pure, and avoiding 
all adulterations and imitations whatever. 

" Your committee award the first premium to Mr. G. 
Sleath ; pure wine ; vintage 1845 ; spec. grav. .75J ; and the 
second premium to Mr. L. Rehfuss ; pure wine, vintage 1845. 

" M. Flagg, CWm Committee." 

At the spring exhibitions of wines in 1850 and 1851, about 
fifty specimens were exhibited at each ; the quality was pro- 
nounced better than at any former trial. Showing a marked 
improvement. 

Mr. Yeatman took the first premium in 1850 ; Mr. 

the second, and Mr. S. Rintz, the third. A bottle from Mr. 
Williamson's vineyard — not fairly within the rules — was 
pronounced equal, if not superior, to the best. 

In 1851, the first premium was awarded to Mr. Mottier, 
the second to F. Schneicke, and the third to D. Z. Sedam. 

At the great New York State Fair, held at Rochester in 
September, 1851, the committee on wines — John A. King, 
Chairman — reported on those from the " Rhine of America, 
the Ohio River," vintage of 1850, Mr. Sleath, best, Mr. 
Rehfuss, second, Mr. Brandt, third. Vintage of 1849, Mr. 
Buchanan, best, Corneau & Son, second, Mr. Ware, third. 

Vintage of 1848, Mr. Rintz, best, Mr. Rehfuss, second, 
ditto third, Mr. Yeatman, fourth. Mr; Longworth's Spark- 
ling Isabella, best, Sparkling Catawba, second, both excellent 
wines. 

Report of the Wine Committee of the Pennsylvania Horticul- 
tural Society, Philadelphia, for September, 1848. 

" The committee feel under obligations to Mr. Longworth, 
for his kindness in presenting them with an opportunity of 
tasting the best specimens of American wines they have yet 
met with. And they are pleased to find that the untiring 



CHARACTER OF THE WINE. 43 

zeal and energy with which he has for so many years, and at 
great expense, prosecuted the subject of wine-making, have 
been crowned with so much success. 

"On motion, ordered that a vote of thanks be tendered to 
Mr. Longworth, for specimens of his fine wines presented to 
the Society." 

The delegation from that Society to the Cincinnati Horti- 
cultural Society's exhibition in September 1848, reported on 
its return, " various kinds of grapes, both native and foreign, 
were exhibited in great abundance. 

" But the favorite with them, and one which seems to be 
peculiarly adapted to their soil and climate, is our native Ca- 
tawba. It is this grape from which they make their choicest 
wines. Your delegation had the pleasure of tasting, at the 
Horticultural Hall, a sample of Mr. Longworth's far-famed 
" Sparkling Catawba ;" and a more exquisitely flavored 
champagne, it would be difficult to meet with among the most 
celebrated foreign brands." 



GRAPES RAISED AND EXHIBITED BY N. LONGWORTH, IN 1846. 

Ohio, White Fox (of no va- Improved Purple Fox, 

Catawba, lue), Red Fox (of no value), 

Graham, Piqua (of no value), Virginia, 

Elsinburg, Herbemont, Missouri, 

Clarkson's Eastern Ca- Giant Catawba, Helen, 

tawba, Minor's Seedling, Lake (a bad bearer), 

Indiana (of no value), Norton's Virginia Seed- Guignard, 
Black Fox (of no va- ling (a good grape White Seedling Cataw- 

lue), but a bad bearer), 



44 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



STATISTICS. 

THE COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD. 

The cost of establishing a vineyard depends much on the 
position and soil ; and on the resources for labor within the 
family of the proprietor ; or, of the tenant who takes the 
ground on a twelve or fifteen years' lease. It has been usual 
to give a piece of land, of say fifteen to twenty acres, with a 
small house on it, to a German vine-dresser, on a lease of 
twelve or fifteen years, binding the tenant to plant a certain 
quantity in grapes each year in a proper manner — and at least 
five or six acres within as many years, he paying the proprie- 
tor one-half the proceeds of the vineyard annually after bear- 
ing — and one-half of any fruit raised from trees furnished by 
the proprietor, who also furnishes roots or cuttings for the first 
two or three acres planted in grapes. 

Mr. Longworth observes : — " I would not recommend any 
individual to hire hands, and cultivate the grape extensively 
for wine, with a view to profit. But I would recommend 
landlords to rent from fifteen to twenty acres to Germans, for 
vineyards and orchards, on shares. We have more to learn 
in the manufacture of the wine, than in the cultivation of the 
grape. And I would recommend our German vine-dressing 
emigrants, to purchase or lease a few acres of rough, cheap 
land on the Ohio, or near it, with a view to the cultivation of 
the grape. Land will be suitable for it, that is too rough for 
the plow, and eight or ten acres will give employment to a 
whole family. " 

No accurate statistics of the cost per acre of planting a 
vineyard can be found, except those of the writer (where 
everything was paid for in money, and a regular account 
kept), and of Mr. Resor's vineyard. 

Cost of a vineyard of six acres — fourteen thousand four 
hundred vines : 



COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD. 45 



Trenching two feet deep, $65 per acre, $390 00 

Sodding avenues, 60 00 

Cost of 30,000 cuttings, at $2,50 per thousand, 75 00 

Planting, 70 00 

Fourteen thousand five hundred locust stakes, at $3 per 

hundred, 435 00 

Setting 14,500 stakes, 55 00 

1,085 00 
Cost of attending the first year — vine-dresser, $216, and a 

hand for one month, $15 (and board themselves), $231 00 

Second year — vine-dresser, $216, a hand for two months, 

at $15 per month, 256 00 

Cuttings, after first year, to replace failures, say, 20 00 

Hauling, carting, etc., 68 00 

Contingencies, etc., 150 00 

Average cost, say, $300 per acre, 1,800 00 

The vineyard being on a gentle declivity did not require 
benching, which would have been more expensive than the 
draining by sodded avenues — nor did the ground contain 
stone enough to add to the expense of trenching, which, in 
some positions, is a very serious item. 

By proper economy, a man may have a vineyard of seve- 
ral acres in a few years, without feeling the expense to be 
burdensome. Commence by trenching one acre in the winter, 
and planting it out in the spring ; next year another acre, and 
so on, for five or six years. After the third year, he will 
have his own cuttings from the first acre, and also grapes 
enough to pay for the cost of planting the succeeding addi- 
tions to his vineyard. 

If he has suitable timber on his own land, the stakes can 
be got out in the winter with but little outlay in money. 
By this course, the cost of a vineyard of six acres would not 
be half as much as the foregoing estimate. 

In Mr. Resor's article, published here in full, will be 
found valuable statistical estimates of the cost of the vine- 
yard, and also of its product. 



46 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



MR. RESOR S VINEYARD. 

Upon referring to some memoranda of my father, I find, 
among others, the following account kept of the produce of 
his vineyard since 1837. As several of our members are 
cultivating the vine, I thought it would be interesting, as it 
is difficult to obtain a statement of the kind, kept minutely 
for a series of years. 

It shows the actual produce, and the certainty of the crop 
before any other fruit in this latitude, and the difference be- 
tween the Catawba and Cape, as to the yield and certainty. 
The Cape having borne a first rate crop for nine successive 
years, the Catawba failing occasionally, from rot and the ef- 
fects of insects. 

The vineyard has a southern exposure, fronting on the Ohio 
river ; it was planted with rooted plants in 1 834, and con- 
tained at that time, 1775 vines, placed in rows four feet 
apart, and three feet distant in the row — the ground being 
previously trenched, and the stones taken out to the depth of 
two feet. 

In the fall of 1 837, the first crop was picked as follows : — 
163 bushels of grapes, from which were made 667 gallons of 
wine. At this time there were 1125 Isabella and Cape vines, 
yielding 113 bushels, making 469 gallons, and 630 Catawba, 
yielding 51 bushels, making 198 gallons. 

1838, Vintage, September 10, produce 327 galls. 
1939, " " 5, " 440 " 

1840, " " 20, Cape 240 

Catawba 65—305 «■ 

This year (1840), most of the Catawba rotted on the vines. 
From this time there were 2,300 vines, about one-half of each 
kind. 

1841 Vintage, Sept. 15, produce 237 galls. Catawba. 
" " " « " 275 " Cape. 

512 gallons. 



MR. resor's vineyard. 47 



1842 Vintage, Sept. 12, produce 166 galls. Catawba. 

" " " 319 " Cape. 

485 gallons. 

1843 Vintage, Sept. 15, produce 250 " Catawba. 

" " " 288 « Cape. 

538 gallons. 

1844 Vintage, Sept. 15, produce 108 galls. Catawba. 

306 " Cape. 

414 gallons. 

1845 Vintage, Sept. 9, produce 283 galls. Cape. 



" " " 349 " Catawba. 
632 gallons. 

About one-eighth of the Catawba grapes were destroyed 
by bees and other insects after ripening. 

The quantity eaten by three families is not taken into this 
account. 

The ground has always been thoroughly hoed in the 
spring, and kept free from weeds, and never manured until 
last winter, when the ground was covered, and in the spring 
dug in. From the result this season, manuring would seem 
to pay well, as the vines are in better condition than they ever 
were after yielding a heavy crop. 

The vines have been trained to stakes, and the bearing 
wood cut out, after having borne one season, leaving two 
shoots, trained the same season, one to form the bearing hoop, 
or bow, and the other cut to two eyes, to propagate wood 
for the next year ; the vine never having but the hoop 
and the two eyes left for fruit each year, growing at the 
same time. 

This year the ends of the vines have been nipped, and the 
suckers taken out four different times. 

The following estimate I have made from what it has cost 
this year, and it is not far from the actual expense, although 
the labor has been done by the hands doing the other work 



48 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

on the farm ; and in making- wine extra hands were always 
employed. By planting cuttings, and preparing the ground 
by subsoil plowing, when it can be done, the expense would 
be lessened. The price is what the wine was sold at from 
the press this season, and is a low estimate. 

ESTIMATE. 

2,300 Vines, at 6c, $138,00 

2,300 Poles, at 2c, 46,00 

1,000 " replaced, 20,00 

Trenching ground and planting, 80,00 

Manuring last Fall, 30,00 

Two months' work, each year, nine years,. . . . 225,00 

Extra work in making wine, 150,00 

Interest on investments before crop, 15,00 

704,00 
Cr. by 4,300 gallons of wine, at 75c 3,229,50 

$2,525,50 

The expense of cultivation, previous to the first crop, is not 
accounted for> nor are press, casks, etc. ; but the actual ex- 
pense of cultivating an acre of grapes, where persons are 
hired to attend to other work, would amount to but very 
little, as but a short time is required to attend to clearing the 
vines during the season. 

September 27 ', 1845. Wm. Resor. 

From Mr. Resor's statement it appears that his father's 
vineyard of 2,300 vines, equivalent to about an acre planted 
3 feet by 6, cost him $284, to which add labor for two years, 
$50, and it makes $334 ; or $34 more than the preceding 
estimate of $300 per acre. But Mr. Resor used two years 
old vines, which cost about $125 more than cuttings could 
have been bought for, which would reduce his acre, had he 
used cuttino-s, to $209, when first in bearing. 

It might be fair to range the cost of vineyards, in trenched 



COST OF ATTENDING A VINEYARD. 49 

ground, at $200 to $350 per acre — depending on the economy 
and good management of the proprietor, and the situation of 
the vineyard. 

Dr. Mosher, one of our most intelligent practical horticul- 
turists, estimates the cost of trenching two feet deep at $80 
to $125 per acre, according to the nature of the ground. 

" On the banks of the Ohio, two miles below our city, I 
yesterday saw some Germans at work, trenching, banking, 
and walling one of the most steep, rugged, and stony hills in 
the county. To have hired the work done by the day, would 
have cost from $300 to $400 per acre. When completed, it 
will be a lovely spot. The cost to them is a trifle, for the 
work is done during the winter, when they have no employ- 
ment. They raise their own hominy and sour-crout. And it 
will not be a serious loss if they occasionally partake of a 
quarter of lamb, as they can buy it at ten or twelve cents 
per quarter." N. L. 

COST OF ATTENDING A VINEYARD. 

To the proprietor or the tenant who is his own vine-dresser, 
this will be small, especially if he has a family that can assist 
him ; but to those who have to hire every hand, the following 
statement will be found pretty accurate. For a vineyard of 
six acres — 

Vine-dresser per year, and board himself $240 

Hands to assist in pruning, say 25 

" " " in spring culture 40 

" " " in summer culture 55 

Or $60 per acre, $360 

If the cuttings can be sold at $2 to $2.50 per thousand, it 
will reduce this about $100. 

The cost of replacing stakes, repairing avenues or 



50 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

benches, and manuring every third year, may be offset 
against the cuttings. 

Mr. Yeatman, who keeps an account of his vineyard ex- 
penditures, concurs in the accuracy of this estimate. 

COST OF MAKING THE WINE. 

This will again depend on the force that the family can 
turn into the vineyard. But when everything has to be done 
by hired labor, the writer can state from experience, that 
gathering the grapes, and pressing them, and filling the juice 
into casks, ready for fermentation, will cost, for an average 
crop, $ 25 to $30 per acre. 

Mr. Longworth remarks : — " The cultivation of the grape 
for wine will be profitable where persons do their own work. 

''It is seldom that any farming pays well where there is 
much hiring of hands. Our German emigrants can cultivate 
the grape to most profit, for the greater part of the work in 
the vineyard is performed by their wives and daughters, 
without interfering with household affairs. A greater profit 
would accrue to a man of observation and skill, who would 
devote much time to the subject, be certain to have clean 
casks, gather his grapes at the proper moment, use great care 
in picking, selecting, and pressing, and a clean press, a cool 
cellar, care and skill in the fermentation, racking at the proper 
time, and always keeping the casks full, never to bottle it till 
four or five years of age, and never to sell any wine with his 
own name, in seasons when the wine is not of the best quality." 

PROBABLE PRODUCT PER ACRE. 

This of course will vary with the season, and with the 
number of vines to the acre. 

At the distance of 3 by 6 ft. 2,420 vines are planted in an 
acre. They will yield, in fair seasons, 300 to 400 gallons ; in 
very good years more. A probable average, for eight or ten 
years, with but little rot, would be about 250 gallons — and 



PRODUCT PER ACRE. 51 



with a reasonable allowance for rot, frosts, &c, 200 gallons 
might be expected as a fair product per acre for a series of 
years. This is also Mr. Longworth's opinion. But even 
then, bad seasons must not be too frequent, or the average 
will be still further reduced. In the report of Dr. Flagg, 
May 1846, he makes the yield per acre, for 1845, about 200 
gallons, and the vineyards suffered much from frost and the 
rot that year. 

The Doctor says : — "There are in this county eighty-three 
vineyards, containing 247| acres ; 114 being in bearing, from 
which 23,219 gallons of wine were made last year. Many of 
the vineyards bore for the first time last year, and more than 
one-half of the crop was cut off by the frost and rot." The 
Doctor estimated the crop for five years in succession, with 
proper care and attention, at 400 to 500 gallons per acre — 
but this is entirely too large. 

In Mr. Resor's statistics, it will be observed that in nine 
successive years, after his father's vineyard commenced 
bearing, viz : from 1837 to 1845 inclusive, it produced, equi- 
valent to about 480 gallons to the acre, each year. This 
vineyard, however, was small, very favorably situated, and 
under the supervision of a judicious and careful proprietor, 
and the product should by no means be assumed as a general 
average for the county. 

Mr. Yeatman fixes the quantity higher, but judges from 
his own vineyard, which occupies a fine position, is carefully 
attended, and contains a little over 3,000 vines to the acre. 
The number of vines to the acre is generally about 2,400. 

A bushel of grapes on the stem will yield three to three 
and a half gallons of juice— some have produced four— 
but this is rare. In measuring, the bushel is " heaped," or 
liberally rounded on the top, not strict measure. 

Paper calculations of profits are often deceptive, and some- 
times mislead those who are not accustomed to act from their 



52 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

own judgment ; but for the sake of condensing the foregoing 
estimates, the following is given as a 

RECAPITULATION. 

Cost of a vineyard per acre, say $250, interest per annum $15,00 

Cost of attending per acre, 60,00 

Cost of making the wine, 25,00 

$100,00 
Probable average annual product — 200 galls, wine, say at $1,00 200,00 

Supposed profit per acre $100,00 

But should the wine bring only 75 cts. per gallon, it would 
still leave a profit of $50 per acre, which is large enough, 
and more likely to be the sum realized throughout the 
county. 

It will be observed that no allowance is made, in the above 
calculations, for interest on the cost of the press, or the ves- 
sels and casks used in making and fermenting the wine. 
The press will cost $60 to $150, and express 160 to 300 gal- 
lons per day; the vessels $10 to $15 ; and the casks, four 
to eight cents per gallon, as to size and quality. The 
other estimates, however, are made liberal enough to cover 
all this. The loss in quantity in making the wine, by fer- 
mentation, lees in racking, and by evaporation, will be about 
ten per cent. 

Since the first edition of this treatise, the author has had 
two years' more experience in grape culture, and is there- 
fore induced to give an account of his own vineyard, from its 
commencement, in the following 

MEMORANDA. 

1 843. Planted 500 vines, two year old Catawba, and a few 
Lenoir, Cape, and Isabella, in plowed ground at the foot of the 
orchard, on the slope of a hill facing the south, intended only 



MEMORANDA. 53 



for table use. Soil, a reddish yellow loam, with the usual 
quantity of lime, and an appearance of iron — not rick, but 
easily mellowed by cultivation — the same composition for four 
or five feet deep. 

1844. Having failed to make clover and timothy take 
root, on the slope of the hill below the little vineyard ; 
plowed with the common and subsoil plow, two acres, 
eighteen inches deep, and planted in Catawbas, and a few 
Isal)dlas, one year old roots, three feet by six in the rows. 

Gathered a few bunches of grapes from the small vine- 
yard. 

1 845. Dissatisfied with subsoil planting, and in the winter 
had an acre trenched two feet deep with the spade — the 
" Irish plow " — and planted with cuttings, two to each 
stick — only lost about ten per cent, by failing to strike root. 
Gathered a good crop of grapes from the little vineyard, thouo-h 
a bad year for the rot. 

1846. Trenched two acres more, two feet deep, and 
planted in Catawba cuttings, with a few Cape and Isabella. 
Gathered a good crop of grapes from the small vineyard, but 
observed the roots of the vines to be too near the surface, 
and the foliage to suffer from the hot sun. This was the re- 
sult of shallow planting. In autumn trenched the ground 
two feet deep between the wide (six feet) rows. Lost, this 
year, about twelve per cent, of the cuttings planted. 

1847. Trenched an acre more, and planted in cuttings — 
lost only nine or ten per cent, of this planting. Gathered a 
fair crop from the small, and a few bunches from the large 
vineyard (first two acres) — and sold the grapes, after a liberal 
supply to the family and neighbors, for near 8100. 

The vines were not injured by the partial root pruning in 
trenching between the rows in the small vineyard. 

In autumn and winter, trenched two feet deep between the 
wide rows in the two acres subsoiled. 



54 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

1 848. Gathered a fair crop from the first two acres, and 
a few bunches from the second acre — made 530 gallons of 
wine, which sold, after the second fermentation, at $1,25 per 
gallon — lost by lees, evaporation, etc., about fifty gallons. 

1849. A bad year for rot, but got a tolerably fair crop 
from three acres in bearing, and a light one from two acres 
first commencing to bear. Made 860 gallons of Catawba, and 
75 of Isabella wine. The Catawba was sold, in 1851, at $1,25 
per gallon — loss in making, ten per cent. The Isabella un- 
sold. 

1850. This was a good year for the grape crop, and but 
little rot. Made from three acres, fair crop, and three partial, 
equal to three and a half acres in full bearing, 1,638 gallons 
of wine. 1,200 good Catawba, 288 inferior — 75 Cape and 
75 Isabella. Sold 400 gallons of Catawba at 80 cents — 288 
inferior at 50 cents per gallon, soon after the first fermen- 
tation. 

The remainder will be ready for market this summer at 
$1,25 per gallon. 

Trenched a quarter of an acre of waste ground to add to 
the vineyard. 

1851. Planted in the addition, part cuttings, part roots one 
year old. A frost, on the second of May, destroyed two-thirds 
of the grape buds, and all the orchard fruits. No rot this 
year — grapes about one-third of a crop, but of a finer quality, 
and richer in saccharine matter than ever grown here before. 
Lost about twelve per cent, of the young roots planted, and 
twenty-five per cent, of the cuttings, owing to the drought, 
which was more severe during last summer and autumn, than 
known in this climate for many years. Lost sixty per cent, 
of the cuttings in the nursery. 

Made 630 gallons of Catawba wine, and seventy-five of 
Cape — quality very fine. Will not be ready for market 
under two years. 



SALE OF THE WINE. 55 





CUTTINGS SOLD AND 


PLANTED. 






1847. 


Sold 10,000 at $3,00 per 


1,000. 


Planted in 


Nursery 


3,000 


1848. 


" 20,000 " 2,50 " 


" 


<< u 


tt 


3,550 


1849. 


" 25,000 " " " 


It 


It tt 


tt 


2,000 


1850. 


" 33,000 " " " 


tt 


tt ft 


tt 


1,500 


1851. 


" 36,000 " 2,00 " 


tt 


tt tt 


tt 


3,000 


1852. 


" 47,000 * 


tt 


To plant in 


" 


3,500 



This vineyard of six acres should produce, on an average, 
for a series of years, 1,800 to 2,000 gallons of wine, when in 
full bearing, which usually commences with the sixth or 
seventh year. 

SALE OF THE WINE. 

Here the cultivator is at a loss, and will be, until wine- 
houses are established in the city, for the express purpose of 
purchasing the product of our vineyards, and preparing it 
for market, for consumption at home, and elsewhere. 

Mr. Longworth justly observes, that " those who com- 
mence this business, and conduct it properly, will make for- 
tunes by it. For that the grape culture will eventually 
succeed and be profitable, and the wine gradually grow into 
public favor, there can no longer be a doubt. 

" Thus far our wine has met with a ready sale in our own 
city, but with the contemplated extension of the grape cul- 
ture in this vicinity, we shall soon be compelled to look abroad 
for a market.' ' 

Suitable cellars are required for the purpose, and in this 
Mr. Longworth, Mr. Yeatman, Mr. Rehfuss, and some others, 
have set laudable examples. Their cellars are large, deep, and 
admirably adapted to keep and ripen the wine. This is the im- 
portant matter with light wines ; care and a cool cellar are 
required, until they are sufficiently ripened to prevent acidity 
by exposure to the air. Every analysis made, proves our na- 
tive wine to be three to four per cent, stronger than the same 
class of foreign importation. 

" Before the cultivation of the vine can be carried onexten- 



66 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

sively and profitably, we must have a sure market for the 
wine as it comes from the press ; so that vine-dressers can 
sell their wine as readily as the farmer his wheat. At pre- 
sent it is mostly sold to our German population at fair 
prices. Many, who are commencing vineyards, without any 
knowledge on the subject, depending entirely upon others for 
their success, may have cause to regret it when too late. In 
commencing the cultivation of the vine, persons should con- 
sider the absolute necessity of a certain market for the wine 
as it comes from the press, and also of producing a quality of 
wine that will repay for four or five years of anxious labor and 
great expense. I began the investigation of the subject of mak- 
ing American wine twelve years since ; and, after having satis- 
fied myself of its practicability, my great anxiety has been to 
secure a ready market for the wine. The farmer who grows 
wheat, must live where he can readily send it to market, if 
he expects to realize a fair compensation ; so the cultivators 
of the vine must depend upon the wine-merchant to purchase 
their wine. It is as much the business of the latter to pre- 
pare it for market, as it is for the miller to grind the wheat. 
The cultivation of the vine, with its entire management, until 
he turns out the pure juice of the grape, belongs to the vine- 
dresser, and the mixing and preparing it for market to the 
wine-merchant, the latter being a distinct and separate busi- 
ness. " — Dr. Flagg's Report. 

In a Report to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, Mr. 
Long worth, in 1846, says: "In the hope of inciting other 
Germans ■ to go and do likewise,' I will state the result of 
one of my vineyards this season. Sixteen years since I 
bought an unusually broken piece of ground on Baldface 
creek, four miles from the city. The soil is rich, but abounds 
in stone. I had a tenant on it four years, who was bound to 
plant a vineyard. At the end of four years nothing was 
done. I tried a second, and after three years, found no 
grapes. I then gave a contract to a German (Mr. Dufer 



SALE OF THE WINE. 67 



ber), who had a wife, daughter, and three stout boys. I 
gave him a hard bargain. I required him to trench and wall 
with stone, six acres for grapes, in three years, and nine acres 
in five years. He was also to plant out a peach orchard, and 
tend an apple orchard I had on the place. The wine and 
proceeds of the orchards were to be equally divided. I care- 
fully avoided climbing the stony hill for three years, expect- 
ing the same result as formerly. When I visited the hill, at 
the end of three years, I found the six acres handsomely 
trenched and walled, and set with grapes. There are now 
nine acres in grapes. The tenant complained, this year, of 
the rot in his vineyard. I am in the habit of selling to the 
tenants, my share of the vintage, at a price that enables them 
to sell at a profit. I this season sold at seventy-five cents per 
gallon at the press, for the Catawba ; sixty-two and a half 
cents for the Cape, and fifty cents for the small amount of 
Isabella made. He has paid me &661 for my share of the 
wine ; and for his share, and the profit on my part, has real- 
ized the sum of $1,392,50. The Catawba he sold at $1,25 
per gallon. 

" The best crop, for the extent of ground, this season, was 
at the vineyard of Mr. Rentz, about four miles from town. 
Two acres yielded 1,300 gallons. This is as large a yield 
as I have known, taking two acres together. To select 
particular spots, I have raised at the rate of 1,470 gal- 
lons to the acre. The grapes at the vineyard of Mr. Rentz 
would have ripened better, had one-third of the bunches 
been cut off early in the season. Where the crop is very 
abundant, it requires a very favorable season to ripen the 
fruit well. 

" Six hundred and fifty gallons to the acre, is a large yield, 
and the season must be favorable, or they will not ripen well. 
A large crop is often occasioned by leaving too much bearing 
wood. This should always be avoided ; for even if the crop 
ripens thoroughly, too much of the sap is taken by the fruit. 



58 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

and too little left to produce good young wood for the next 
season's crop. 

" This season I have retained a part of my share of the 
wine, that I deemed the best, and have also bought a portion 
of the same quality, from the tenants, at an advanced price. 
A part of it is fermented, with a view of bottling it for Cham- 
pagne wine. The residue will undergo a full fermentation, 
and I shall bottle it when two years old, pure as when it came 
from the press ; when it will be of the character of dry old 
Hock. Heretofore, all the wine made at my vineyards, has 
been sold at our German coffee-houses, and drank in our city. 
That which I have retained this season, is intended to be sent 
abroad, in the hope that it may lead persons in other sections 
of the country, to turn their attention to the cultivation of the 
grape for wine." 

WINE CELLARS AND HOUSES. 

Within the last two years, and since the foregoing was pub- 
lished, the interest of the producer has been greatly advanced, 
by the construction of large wine cellars in Cincinnati ; and 
the establishment of regular wine-houses, conducted by deal- 
ers of ample capital. This will insure a fair market for the 
product of our vineyards, and presents a nattering prospect in 
future for the cultivator. Mr. Longworth has two wine cel- 
lars, and is interested in a third. His capital invested in this 
business is over $100,000. Last year 75,000 bottles of 
sparkling Catawba were prepared at his cellars — the year pre- 
vious 60,000 — (this last is now ready for sale). During the 
coming season, he expects to have 100,000 bottles prepared. 
The sparkling wines require fifteen to twenty months to ripen, 
before being ready for market. He has also dry and sweet 
wines bottled at his cellars. 

G. and P. Bogen bottled last year 26,000, and expect to 
put up 35,000 bottles, this year, of sparkling Catawba. 

Zimmerman & Co. intend to put up 60,000 to 80,000 



WINE CELLARS AND HOUSES. 59 

bottles of still wine this year, and to give their entire attention 
to that class of wines. 

Corneau & Sons prepare both sparkling and still wines ; 
their sales, last year, amounted to over 10,000 bottles, and 
their business is rapidly on the increase. 

Dr. L. Rehfuss has an excellent cellar, and is preparing 
still wines with great care, principally from his own vine- 
yards. 

T. H. Yeatman is arranging to make sparkling wines. He 
has, heretofore, only made still wines. 

Mr. Miller, near the city, also makes sparkling Catawba. 

It is encouraging to the producer as well as the wine mer- 
chant to know, that the demand for their wines, particularly 
the sparkling Catawba, has lately increased beyond all calcu- 
lations ; they can scarcely be prepared fast enough to meet 
the market. There is no reason to believe that the consump- 
tion will diminish, for the wines become popular wherever 
they are introduced. And yet, we are but just beginning to 
learn how to make them. This looks well for the future. 

NUMBER OF ACRES IN CULTIVATION. 

Some two years ago, the Cincinnati Horticultural Society 
appointed a committee, of which Dr. Mosher is chairman, to 
take a statistical account of the vineyards in this vicinity. 
The report is not yet completed, but the following estimate of 
the aggregate has been furnished, and is supposed to be 
nearly accurate, viz : Number of acres in vineyard culture 
within a circle of twenty miles around Cincinnati, 1,200 — un- 
der charge of 295 proprietors and tenants. Of this, Mr. 
Longworth owns 122-J- acres, cultivated by twenty-seven 
tenants. 

At the low estimate of $200 per acre, for cost of planting, 
etc., this would amount to $240,000 — exclusive of the value 
of the land ; and when in full bearing, produce, at the most 
moderate estimate, for a series of years (of 200 gallons to the 



60 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

acre), 240,000 gallons of wine annually ; but in good sea- 
sons much more. 

The number of acres now in bearing is a little over 740. 
The average distance apart in the rows, is three by six feet, 
making 2,400 plants to the acre. 

(See Appendix for the Report of the President of the 
Cincinnati Horticultural Society to the Legislature of Ohio, 
on this subject). 

The average product to the acre, in 1848, was about 300 
gallons, from near 280 acres then in bearing, and in 1849 
(the worst year for rot that has yet been known), about 100 
gallons to the acre, from some 360 acres. New vineyards 
produced 200 to 250 gallons — but the old only 60 to 100; 
and the crops of a few were entirely destroyed by the rot. 

Mr. A. Liggett, of Ripley, Ohio, has obligingly furnished 
the statistics of the vineyards in that neighborhood. There 
are ninety-three acres planted, and sixteen proprietors ; about 
one-half the vines in bearing. The distance apart in the 
rows, three by six feet — the quantity of wine made in 1848 
and 1849, about the same to the acre as in this vicinity, and 
the rot equally destructive. 

VINEYARD CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 

The vegetable productions of North America were a source 
of wonder to the early adventurers to its shores, and the grape- 
vine appears to have especially attracted their attention. Let- 
ters to Europe from this part of the world gave glowing ac- 
counts of the wild grapes found in Florida, Louisiana, and 
Virginia. 

Redding says, a considerable quantity of wine was pro- 
duced from a native grape in Florida, as far back as 1564, 
according to the testimony of Sir John Hawkins. Wine was 
also made at a very early period in Louisiana. 

The more recent attempts at wine-making, from vineyard 
culture, commenced, about the beginning of the present cen- 



VINEYARD CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 61 

tury, at Gallipolis, in our own state ; Philadelphia, Harmony, 
and York, Pa. ; Glasgow, and Lexington, Ky. ; Monticello, 
Va. ; Baltimore, Md. ; and New Harmony and Vevay, la. 
Subsequently efforts were made to establish vineyards in the 
vicinity of New York, District of Columbia, Demopolis, Ala., 
and in North and South Carolina. These generally failed, 
from planting foreign grape-vines unsuited to our soil and 
climate. 

A few of the cultivators had the sagacity to discover this 
error, and substituted the best native varieties. 

Major Adlum, Mr. Longworth, the Swiss at Vevay, and 
some gentlemen in Carolina were the first to adopt this course. 
The Cape, Catawba, and Isabella at the North, and the Scup- 
pernong at the South, took the place of the vines from Europe, 
and wine was made, but of an inferior quality. It is only of 
late years that American Wines have had any pretensions to 
come in competition with European, and to Mr. Longworth, 
more than to any other man, belongs the honor of havino- 
produced this result. 

The Ohio river is already called the "Rhine of America," 
and Cincinnati the center of the grape region in this valley. 
Within twenty miles around the city, more than 1200 acres 
are planted in vineyards — at Ripley and Maysville above, 
about 100 acres — at Vevay, Charleston, and Louisville below, 
over 250 acres are in vine culture ; — making 1,550 acres for 
the Ohio valley alone, which is a low estimate. 

At Hermann, Mo., about forty or fifty acres are in vine- 
yards ; and in the vicinity of St. Louis, and some other 
parts of the State, probably twenty or thirty acres more ; a 
few at Belleville, 111., and elsewhere in that State. Near Read- 
ing, Pa., several vineyards are planted and some excellent 
wines made. In North and South Carolina, the Scuppernong 
wines have been made for many years, but the number of 
acres in grape culture is to the writer unknown. A few vine- 
yards are in cultivation in the vicinity of New York and Phila- 



62 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

delphia — and Burlington, New Jersey ; but more with a view- 
to supply the market with grapes, than to make wine. Efforts 
have been made in the interior of Kentucky, in Tennessee, in 
western New York, and on the southern shore and islands of 
Lake Erie, to cultivate the vine for making wine, but sufficient 
time has not yet elapsed for a fair trial. In the Appendix 
will be found a letter from Mr. A. H. Wagner, on Vine Culture 
in Canada West. In a hasty sketch like this, it is merely 
intended to give a glance at the subject, and invite public 
attention to what must ere long be a source of great national 
wealth. 

The following extract is taken from a highly interesting 
address delivered before the Medical Library Association of 
this city, Jan. 9th, 1852, by Dr. Daniel Drake, " On the early 
Physicians, Scenery, and Society of Cincinnati." 

11 Third street, running near the brow of the upper plain, 
was on as high a level as Fifth street is now. The gravelly 
slope of that plain stretched from east to west almost to Pearl 
street. On this slope, between Main and Walnut, a French 
political exile — M. Mennessiur — planted, in the latter part of 
the last century, a small vineyard. This was the beginning 
of that cultivation for which the environs of our city have at 
length become so distinguished. I suppose this was the first 
cultivation of the foreign grape in the valley of the Ohio." 

The celebrated traveler Volney, on a visit to the French 
settlers at Gallipolis, Ohio, in July, 1796, tasted wine made 
there from a red grape, found on the islands in the Ohio river 
and planted in a small vineyard. " This wine differed but 
little in quality from that made from the small black grape 
found in the woods on shore." The red grape was supposed 
to be " a foreign variety brought over by the French to Fort 
Du Quesne ;" but it was doubtless the Red Fox grape, familiar 
to most of us in the west. Wine has occasionally been made, 
in different parts of the Union, in years past, from native grapes 
collected in the forests, but neither the quality of the wine, 



AMERICAN GRAPES. 63 



nor the prices obtained for it, offered sufficient inducements 
to persevere. 

Dufour says : " In my journeying down the Ohio in 1799, 
I found at Marietta a Frenchman, who was making several 
barrels of wine every year, out of grapes that were found 
growing wild and abundantly on the heads of the islands in 
the Ohio river, called sand grapes. I tasted some of the wine 
when four months old, and found it equal to that produced 
near Paris, if not better." The French, on the borders of the 
Ohio, thought the grape was of French origin, but Mr. Du- 
four subsequently found it growing wild in Kentucky and 
elsewhere. It was probably the Red Fox grape, varieties of 
which we now have in our vineyards under the name of the 
" Venango," "Minor's Seedling," etc. 

Dufour remarks: "None of the different and numerous 
trials which were made in several parts of the United States, 
that I visited in 1796, were found worth the name of vine- 
yards." "I went to see all the vines growing that I could 
hear of, even as far as Kaskaskia on the Mississippi, where I 
was informed, the Jesuits had planted a vineyard shortly after 
the first settlement of the country, but that the French gov- 
ernment had ordered it to be destroyed, for fear that vine cul- 
ture might spread in America and hurt the wine-trade of 
France." 

"I found only the spot where that vineyard had been 
planted, in a well-selected place, on the side of a hill, to the 
north-east of the town, under a cliff. No good grapes were 
found there or in any gardens of the country." 

AMERICAN GRAPES. 

Mr. W. R. Prince, in his Treatise on the Vine — New York, 
1 830 ; enumerates eighty-eight varieties of American grapes, 
many of them supposed to be valuable for making wine. 

The experiments of western cultivators have been confined 
to but a small portion of that number, and their final selec- 
6 



64 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

tions for vineyard culture are reduced to the Catawba, Cape, 
Herbemont, Isabella, and Missouri, ranking in value in the 
order here named. For profit, the writer can only recom- 
mend the Catawba and the Cape ; one-eighth or tenth of the 
latter variety, would be enough. The other kinds may do 
for experiments until their merits are better known. 

There can be no doubt that other native varieties may 
prove to be valuable for wine, when fairly tested, or that new 
ones, equally good, may hereafter be produced from seeds. 

Of the two recommended above, the Catawba is much the 
most productive ; but the Cape is less subject to rot. Both 
make good wines. 

Great hopes are entertained that valuable varieties of grapes 
may be obtained from our newly-acquired territories of Texas 
and California. Thus far, none brought here from Texas, 
have proved to be good. California grapes are yet untried 
by us. 

The following is the extract from Mr. Prince, referred to 
above : — 

" The varieties of vines which properly come under this 
head, may be divided into several classes, arising from the 
peculiar circumstances of their origin, viz : 

Vines of original native species. 
Varieties of original native species. 
Varieties obtained by admixture of native species. 
Varieties obtained from seeds of exotic grapes. 
Varieties obtained by admixture of foreign and native 
varieties. 

Although some of these classes are already numerous, 
others are yet very limited, and from the short period of time 
that has elapsed, since the public attention and that of intel- 
ligent connoisseurs, has been particularly drawn to the sub- 
ject, in such a manner as to elucidate the various points, and 
to obtain precise information, it is yet impossible to form a 



ANALYSIS OF SOILS. 65 



definite arrangement of all our varieties. The perfection of 
this desirable object must therefore remain for future labors ; 
but it is to be hoped, an end so desirable will not be lost sight 
of by the amateurs of the vine throughout our country, and 
that each will, by developing the various points which fall 
within his notice, contribute his mite toward a perfect arrange- 
ment of the various classes, a precise nomenclature, and a 
knowledge of the peculiar qualities of the respective kinds." 

ANALYSIS OF SOILS. 

A publication under this head, in the first edition, is omitted 
in the present, doubts having been expressed of its accuracy. 
The article was taken from the minutes of the Cincinnati Hor- 
ticultural Society, and the analysis made by Charles Whit- 
tlesey and A. Randall, for the State Agricultural Society. 

The following specimen is given, that those who choose 
may criticise it — and the soil is much like that on which the 
writer's vineyard is planted. 

" iYb. 2." From land worn down by twenty-five years' 
cropping. 

Oxide of iron, 0.31 

Carbonate of lime, 3.91 

Vegetable matter, 3.10 

Earthy residue, 90.31 

Water, 1.37 

1.00 
It may be proper here to remark, that old lands, or such 
as have been under tillage for some years, are better suited 
to vineyard culture than new, the grapes being less subject 
to the " rot." 

FINING WINES. 

In this branch of the business, the writer has had but little 
experience, and therefore gives the opinion of others, in pre- 
ference to his own. 



66 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

It is difficult to fine new wines, so as to keep them per- 
fectly bright after being bottled, for even a few months. The 
"insensible" or imperceptible fermentation constantly going 
on in wines, will deposit more or less sediment in the bottles 
after all the care that can be bestowed in fining. This is the 
case with all wines, the heavy more than the light. The 
latter, such as Hock and Catawba, deposit less sediment than 
Madeira or sherry, of the same age. All have to be decanted 
carefully, or drawn off with a syphon, after standing the 
bottle on the end, for a day or two. The author has tried 
some of the finest varieties of each kind, and finds invariably 
this result. He has now a bottle of Catawba wine, from the 
vineyard of the late Jacob Resor ; vintage of 1837, which, 
though well fined at first, and quite sound now, is turbid 
when shaken, and will have to be drawn off with a syphon. 
His own wine, and that of others, only bottled a year ago, is 
in the same state. Frequent rackings might in some measure 
overcome this difficulty, was it not feared that the exposure 
to the air, would make the wine too acid. The American 
palate rejects anything like harshness in wines ; strength and 
astringency it can stand, but not acidity. 

Redding and other writers, have many recipes for fining 
European wines, to which the reader is referred. The follow- 
ing extract is from the valuable work on grape culture and 
wine-making, by the late John James Dufour, of Vevay, 
Ind. ; published in Cincinnati, 1826. It is given in prefer- 
ence to others, because it is a western production, and treats 
of American wines. Mr. Dufour, was an intelligent and 
practical vine-dresser, one of the pioneers of this enterprise in 
the United States, and one of the first who brought it to a 
successful issue in the Ohio Valley. He settled, with other 
emigrants from Switzerland, at Vevay, in 1805, and cultivated 
the vine for many years. This was before the Catawba grape 
was brought into notice. The Cape grape, planted in bottom 
lands (which was an error), did not pay well, and the wine 



FINING WINES. 67 



business was abandoned.* Still, the vine-growers owe to Mr. 
Dufour and his associates, a debt of gratitude, which should 
not be forgotten. 

"Artificial fining of wine is performed in different ways, 
but I shall mention only the three methods I have made use 
of myself, which I think are the best, and sufficient to answer 
all purposes. I have always considered that the white of eggs 
is the best ingredient to clarify wine, and the easiest procured ; 
one egg to every six or ten gallons, according to the quantity 
of matter to be precipitated from the wine ; the eggs are first 
beat until the ropiness is subdued, and then being put into a 
tub, wine is drawn on them by a spile-hole from the cask 
which is to be fined ; and while the wine is running, the eggs 
are in the same time churned or beaten very briskly, until the 
tub is filled, and the whole is introduced into the cask again, 
which ought not to be quite full, for the churning will gene- 
rate an abundant froth, which, I think, is the very thing that 
fines the wine, therefore, it ought all to be introduced into the 
cask ; for that purpose more wine is to be drawn, to rinse the 
tub and funnel, until the whole is in ; then with a stick, intro- 
duced by the bung, a good stirring is to be given to the top 
of the mass of the wine, and the bung made fast. If that 
operation is made in a clear day, or when the mercury in the 
thermometer is high and shows elasticity in the atmosphere 
yet, there is greater chance of success. I have made use 
also of isinglass ; but I found it very troublesome. It must 
be pounded very fine, and soaked several days in wine before 
it is thoroughly dissolved, and then it is only equal to the 
white of eggs, and must be operated the same way. Some 
say that it refines the wine quicker ; but I could not observe 
any material difference. It is true, I have not often made use 
of fish-glue ; I had to buy it while I had eggs of my own : 
beside, I thought tha' the tannin principle, which exists in 
some sorts of wine, perhaps more or less in all, and is a de- 
sirable quality, may be combined with the glue and form 



68 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 



leather, and thus destroy its best principles of durability. 
Although the eggs seem also to be a glue, I suppose they do 
not operate in the same way. The time isinglass succeeded 
the best with me, I had left it to soak among thirty gallons 
of wine in a keg, a full month ; then beaten in a tub with a 
broom for an hour before it was introduced into the cask in- 
tended to be fined ; one ounce per eighty or one hundred gal- 
lons is the dose made use of. Some recommend to add the 
shells, well-pounded, with the eggs ; and I have done it my- 
self, but I abandoned that practice after I had considered, 
that, being limestone, they must neutralize some of the tartar 
of the wine, which is absorbed again if it is lodged in a ves- 
sel having some crystallized tartar adhering to its staves — 
which is the case of all vessels in which new wine has been 
made — w jh again dissolve as much of those crystals as the 
lime will have neutralized ; for only a certain given quantity 
of that salt can be dissolved by water, and none by alcohol ; 
therefore, the more spiritous the wine is the less tartar it keeps 
in solution. The must holds as much as its watery part 
can dissolve ; in the course of the fermentation spirit is formed, 
and all that part of the tartar which cannot be kept in solu- 
tion by the spirit, or combined in it, is crystallized into hard 
stone against the sides of the vessel." 

VINEYARD CULTURE IN AUSTRALIA. 

The vineyards of Asia and Europe have been established 
for ages, and it would be superfluous here to say a word about 
them — their history is recorded in numerous volumes. 

It is with new beginners like ourselves, that our sympathies 
are naturally most enlisted, and with this view, the following 
sketch of the progress of our own race on the opposite side 
of the globe, in vine culture, is given. 

It is an extract from the first Vol., second edition, of Dr. 
Lang's "Historical and Statistical account of New South 
Wales. London, 1837." 



VINEYARD CULTURE IN AUSTRALIA. 69 

" The soil and climate of New South. Wales are universally- 
considered peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of the vine. 
The vine has been cultivated in various localities in New 
South Wales for many years past ; but never to any extent, or 
with a view to the making of wine, till within the last three or 
four years. There are now, however, many acres of vine- 
yard throughout the colony, the vineyards of several of the 
more wealthy proprietors being for the most part under the 
management of scientific and practical vine-dressers from the 
south of Europe ; and wine and brandy in considerable quan- 
tity — as much in one instance as eighteen pipes of the for- 
mer — have already been manufactured on several estates. It 
is scarcely possible as yet, to predict, with any degree of cer- 
tainty, of what quality the wines of New South Wales will 
eventually prove ; for the vine requires to be in bearing for 
five or six years before good wine can, in any instance, be 
produced from its fruit. The specimens of wine, however, 
that have actually been produced from the colonial grape, 
have induced a general idea on the part of the colonists, that 
the wine of New South Wales will be somewhat similar to 
the light wines of the Rhine and of France. At all events, 
the highest expectations are entertained on the subject ; and 
those of the landholders, who have planted vineyards, begin 
to talk already of exporting wine to India and England. 

" Cuttings of the choicest European and African vines have 
a,t different times been imported into the colony, by public- 
spirited proprietors. 

" About eleven years ago, Mr. Redfern, a respectable colon- 
ist, touched at the island of Madeira, on returning from Eu- 
rope to New South Wales, and carried out with him a number 
of cuttings of the celebrated vine of that island, together with 
one or two Portuguese families acquainted with its culture. 

u The Messrs. Macarthur of Camden, had a large collection 
of cuttings of the choicest French and German vines sent out 
to them, for propagating in the colony several years ago ; 



70 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

and cuttings of upward of a hundred varieties were carried 
out to the colony for general distribution, in the year 1832, 
by James Busby, Esq., now British President at New Zealand ; 
from several of the first vineyards of France. 

" The success of this branch of cultivation is of incalculable 
importance to New South Wales ; not so much, indeed, in a 
commercial or agricultural, as in a moral respect. 

" The raising of an article in the shape of colonial wine, fit 
for the home or India market, is doubtless of consequence to 
the colony in a mercantile point of view ; and the annual 
saving that would accrue from the manufacture of a whole- 
some and cheap beverage, that would gradually obviate the 
necessity for importing European and Cape wine, is of still 
greater moment. 

" But the gradual diminution of the consumption of ardent 
spirits within the colony, which would in all likelihood be the 
eventual result, would, without doubt, be a blessing of far 
greater, and of inestimable magnitude to the whole colonial 
population. It is a fact well ascertained, that the population 
of wine-growing countries are not addicted to the brutalizing 
vice of drunkenness, like the inhabitants of colder latitudes ; 
and there is reason to hope, therefore, that if the population 
of New South Wales could by any means be converted into a 
vine-growing population, they would, in due time, become a 
wine-drinking, and comparatively temperate, instead of a 
rum-drinking and most outrageously intemperate population." 

PRODUCT OF THE VINE IN FRANCE. 

To those who are not aware of the value of this product in 
wine countries, the following statistics from Mr. Redding's 
work, before referred .to, may be found instructive. It will 
be perceived, that the grape crop of France, like the cotton 
crop of our own country, is the most valuable of all others 
for export. 

" France is the vineyard of the earth. There are few de- 



THE VINEYARD REGION IN THE UNITED STATES. 71 

partments in France that are unfriendly to the vine ; the ex- 
ceptions are six only. In eighty of the departments wine is 
made, although of varying quality. The country may be 
called one vast vine-garden. 

The number of proprietors of vineyards in France, is very 
great. 

In 1823, there were 4,270,000 acres in cultivation. The 
annual mean product, 920,721,088 gallons of wine, at an 
average value of about thirteen cents per gallon, amounting 
to 120,000,000 dollars. The product per acre, near 200 
gallons. This estimate was sustained by the minister of com- 
merce, in his report for 1828. About 115,000,000 gallons 
of wine is annually distilled into brandy, producing near 
19,000,000 gallons. Beside this, 2,000,000 gallons are ob- 
tained from the murk, ('pummice,' grape seeds and skins, 
after being pressed), and 3,000,000 gallons made from corn, 
potatoes, etc., etc. Swelling the total amount of brandy to 
24,000,000 gallons." The wine products of France must 
have greatly increased since 1 828, when these estimates were 
made. 

THE VINEYARD REGION IN THE UNITED STATES. 

The writer of this treatise does not presume to fix the limits 
of the vineyard region in this country. The grape-vine is 
found indigenous over all our vast possessions. There can 
be no doubt, but some of the native varieties may be found 
suitable for vineyard culture, in almost every section of the 
Union, south of latitude 43°. He can only give the result of 
his own observations, in relation to the kinds cultivated here ; 
and first, of the Catawba > — This grape was discovered, ac- 
cording to Dr. Mosher's report, "in Buncombe county, N. 
Carolina ; latitude, 35° 30', by Col. Murray, and others, in 
1802." It has since been found high up the Arkansas river, 
in about the same parallel of latitude, and on similar soil, 
"poor and gravelly." Since that period, it has spread over 
all the country north, as high as lat. 42° ; and how far south, 
7 



72 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

has not yet been ascertained here. In this parallel, 39° 6', 
it is perfectly hardy, and is our great wine grape ; nineteen- 
twentieths of all the grapes planted here, are Catawba. It 
does well in favorable positions, as high as lat. 41°; on the 
southern shore of Lake Erie, and some sheltered localities in 
western N. York, the fruit ripens well ; even in lat. 42°, in 
warm seasons. The influence of the water of Lake Erie, for 
two or three miles from its shores, makes that a better fruit 
region than ours here. The Cape {Alexander or Schuylkill 
Muscadel), is a native of Pennsylvania, and was first found 
on the banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia. It bears 
well as far north as the Catawba does. Its southern limits 
are unknown to the writer. The Isabella is said to be a native 
of S. Carolina, and strange to say, it succeeds better in the 
north than in the south, or even our intermediate latitude. 

Here it is not prized for vineyard culture, and the young 
wood is often winterkilled ; but further north and north-east, 
particularly on the shores of Lake Erie, and in the vicinity of 
the city of New York, it bears abundantly and ripens well. 
There, it is the favorite grape for open culture. 

The Scwppernong , is the principal wine grape south of lat. 
35° ; but here it is not hardy. The foreign grapes do not 
appear to succeed much better in that region than this. The 
foregoing are the grapes most used in vineyard culture as yet. 
Experiments have been made with other varieties, but not 
sufficiently to ascertain the latitude that suits them best. The 
whole valley of the Ohio, between Pittsburgh and Cairo, and 
not north of lat. 40°, is thought to be favorable to vineyard 
culture ; provided a proper selection of soil and position is 
made. The hills and hillsides should always be chosen, in 
preference to the plains. Three-fourths of all the vineyards 
in Europe, are on the hills or slopes of hills, and those in 
plains are generally in the chalk formations, which we have 
not here. In the valleys of the Mississippi, Missouri,- and 
other of our western rivers, the same rule will probably apply. 



APPENDIX. 



[ The directions and descriptions in the preceding pages of this treatise, have been 
made as brief and concise as possible, in order that they might the more easily be re- 
membered. 

In the following pages, the reader will find a more full and detailed account, of some 
of the branches in Tine culture and wine-making.] 

(Prom the Western Horticultural Review.) 
STATISTICS OF VINEYARDS. 

In accordance with a resolution of the Horticultural Society 
of Cincinnati, passed at its last session, calling on the Presi- 
dent and Council to report on the extent of the interest at 
this time engaged in the wine business in the neighborhood 
of Cincinnati, we submit the following report : 

Of the number of acres now under cultivation in vines, we 
are not, as yet, prepared to give an exact account, as the en- 
tire statistics of the county have not been fully made out since 
1845. In that year (see Report of Wine Committee) there 
were eighty-three vineyards, covering an area of three hun- 
dred and fifty acres. In that year alone, one hundred acres 
were prepared and planted, and the number of acres brought 
under cultivation has been steadily and rapidly increasing 
every year since. The great number of new vineyards com- 
menced since 1845, some of which embrace twenty-five to 
thirty acres, with the annual enlargement of those previously 
planted, will swell the aggregate amount to not less than 
twelve hundred acres. From the statistics already in our 
possession, we can safely say that this is within the actual 
amount. 

(73) 



74 APPENDIX. 



The labor bestowed upon this culture in the preparation of 
the ground, planting and dressing, and making the wine, 
gives employment to at least six hundred efficient laborers, 
at an annual cost of $120,000, producing, when in a bearing 
state, in moderately favorable seasons, about 240,000 gallons 
of wine, estimated at about the same number of dollars. Be- 
side the cultivators and vine-dressers, employment is also 
given to wood-coopers, equal to the making of eight thousand 
barrels, estimated at $8,000. 

A considerable portion of this crop now falls into the hands 
of the wine coopers, and is converted into sparkling wine or 
champagne, thereby more than doubling its market price. 
The value of sparkling wine prepared in this county in 1851, 
as near as we can arrive at an estimate, amounts to not less 
than $75,000. The dealing in these wines also forms a con- 
siderable item in the transactions of the wine merchants. 

As most of those engaged in the culture of the vine have 
families to support, as well as others engaged in the business, 
it may, without exaggeration, be calculated that the wine in- 
terest in Hamilton county, affords subsistence, directly or in- 
directly, to at least 2,000 industrious and sober people — a 
drunken vine-dresser we have never met with. 

S. Mosher, Pres. Hot. Soc. 

Cincinnati, March 15, 1852. 



When this report was read before the society, some of the 
members expressed great surprise at the large amount of the 
vineyard interest — but others considered the estimate to be 
below the truth. Mr. Yeatman suggested that it should be 
put at 500,000 gallons for the aggregate annual yield, in a 
fair average estimate. 

Mr. Longwokth considered the value of sparkling wine, 
prepared last year, to be $175,000, instead of the amount 
reported above. 



RACKING WINE. 75 



(From the Western Horticultural Rev.) 
RACKING WINE. 

This being the season of the year when the wine may re- 
quire attention, the reasons for racking and the manner of 
effecting it are presented : 

This operation is performed to separate the wine from its 
ferment, in order to prevent further change, either spiritous 
or acetous — to separate it also from the lees, containing, be- 
side the yeast, cream of tartar, and coloring matter which has 
accumulated at the bottom of the cask. This process also 
enables us to avoid the exposure of the surface of the wine to the 
influence of the air, by which it would suffer more evaporation 
and be liable to be covered with mould (Kahnen) a white crypto- 
gamic plant which covers the wine and gives it a putrid taste. 

To effect the first object, frequent racking is required, say 
1st, at the end of December ; 2d, at the end of February, in 
March or early in April ; and then again in the autumn, at 
the end of October : such is my treatment of the Catawba 
wine during the first year ; after this, it is only racked in the 
fall. The latter object is to be attained by keeping the cask 
always bung full to exclude the air and prevent alcoholic 
evaporation or absorption of air, to produce putrefaction. 
The bung should be made of clear wood, wrapped with clean 
linen to insure tightness ; a caution should however be had to 
loosen the bungs in April, when the wine is apt to undergo a 
fermentative change, and should the bung be too tight, so that 
the gases cannot drive it out, the bottom of the barrel may have 
to yield before the pressure, and thus the wine will be lost. 

In racking, the first requisite is a good wine-green cask, 
which has previously contained similar wine ; it should be 
carefully examined to ascertain that it is quite clean and has 
neither a sour nor other bad smell. After the cask is 
thoroughly rinsed with clear, fresh water, burn a piece of 
brimstone paper, one by three inches large, suspended from 
the bung by a piece of bent wire. This is made by dipping 



76 APPENDIX. 

paper into melted sulphur. Then fill the cask, but endeavor 
to expose the wine as little as possible to the air. Never use 
a new cask in this process, as the wine will acquire a bad 
smell and taste from the fresh wood. Neither should you 
think of taking a barrel that has contained brandy, Madeira, 
or other wine than good Catawba, as these substances always 
impart a taste to the wine, and thus destroy the fine flavor of 
our delicate product. Casks become what is called wine-green, 
or fit for old wine, after having had fermented in them sweet 
cider or grape must. 

Empty casks may be kept in good order by being thorough- 
ly cleaned, and after they have been left to dry for a few 
days, burn a piece of sulphur paper and bung them tightly, 
this may be repeated every three or four months. The burn- 
ing sulphur produces sulphurous acid gas, which prevents 
putrefaction and acidulation, but they should be well rinsed 
before they are again used. 

Especial caution is given after racking the wine to keep the 
cask always bung-full ; this requires frequent examination, 
say every three or four weeks, when it should be filled up. 
In a cask that is not kept full, there is more evaporation, and 
in presence of the atmospheric air, acetous or vinegar fermen- 
tation is apt to be commenced, the white mould (Kahnen) is 
formed, and the wine is spoiled, never to be restored. 

A great many persons believe that the racking of wine is 
not necessary, they say that it is thereby weakened, because 
the yeast and all the sedimentary matters give strength to the 
wine — let us examine into this. The temperature of the must 
during the first week of the first or quick fermentation is very 
much increased, the liquid from being clear, becomes turbid, 
owing to the separation and precipitation of the decomposed 
and effete ferment, the cream of tartar and other matters 
which are kept in continual motion by the escaping carbonic 
acid gas. In the second week the fermentation is moderated, 
the temperature is reduced ; in the third week this reduction 



FERMENTATION OF WINES. 77 

is still more observable, and fermentation nearly ceases, until 
the temperature becomes almost the same as the surrounding- 
air, and cold weather comes on. At the end of December 
the wine will be nearly clear, and this is the time I recommend 
for the first racking. At the end of February, the weather is 
still colder, and more of these foreign ingredients are separ- 
ated, hence this period is recommended for the second rack- 
ing, the wine will then be mellow and nearly clear. In the 
middle of April, when the vines begin to push forth their 
buds, the wine ferments again, but if it has been well racked, 
it possesses little yeast, and the fermentation will be slow, 
and more of the sugar will be retained in an unchanged con- 
dition, so that the wine is more palatable. 

What happens, on the contrary, with wines that have not 
been racked ? With the increasing temperature of the season, 
in April or May, fermentation commences, and the escaping 
carbonic gas stirs up all the sediment from the bottom of the 
cask, brinoino- it into contact with the wine, which retains a 
portion of what it had before thrown off, the yeast also, thus 
mixed, will decompose more sugar, and the result will be a 
too hard and too astringent wine, that must require years to 
render it ao-ain mellow. L. Rehfuss. 

o 

March, 1852. 



(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 

fermentation of wines. 

The growing importance of the manufacture of wine, from 
our already numerous vineyards in this immediate vicinity, 
calls for the attention of those engaged in that particular 
branch of industry. 

The great deficiency of the knowledge of the principles 
which govern the fermentation and changes of the must, or 
juice of the grape, is sufficiently attested by the numerous 
poor specimens of wine offered in our market, showing con- 
clusively a want of skill, as well as proper attention to the 



78 APPENDIX. 



management of the different changes it undergoes while in 
its transition from the crude juice of the grape to good mar- 
ketable wine. There is undoubtedly too much importance 
attached to locality and soil, and too little attention during 
fermentation. If all could extract the juice from their grapes 
in precisely the same manner, then the same treatment (other 
circumstances being similar) would undoubtedly produce 
nearly the same results ; but, with our numerous small begin- 
nings and variety of appliances used in gathering and press- 
ing the grapes, we can look for little uniformity in the quality 
of the raw juice ; hence it becomes absolutely necessary for 
each one to understand the principles that govern the ferment- 
ing process, in order to meet the variety of circumstances that 
will necessarily follow. Some rack or draw off their wine too 
much, some not enough : in the course of my remarks I shall 
attempt to point out the reason why wine may be injured by 
too much, as well as by too little separation from the lees 
during its progressive stages of fermentation. In the first 
place, it will be important to ascertain the character of the 
agent that produces fermentation, how long that agent should 
be suffered to operate, and when it is proper to dispense with 
its influence. 

The fermenting or yeast principle is produced during vinous 
or first fermentation from a vegetable gluten or gum which 
exists in the juices of all fruits — this yeast or ferment is 
formed in greater or less quantities, as this gluten or gum 
pervades more or less the fermenting mass ; hence that having 
a large quantity of gluten will produce an abundance of the 
stimulating or fermenting principle, and in many cases, to the 
injury of the wine. In drawing the must from the grapes by 
pressing, some part will be more charged with this gum than 
others unless the whole amount pressed at once is run into a 
single receiver, in which case there will be more uniformity 
in the process of fermentation, than if it is put into a number 
of casks during the time it is running from the press. This 



FERMENTATION OF WINES. 79 



gum or mucilage is held in solution in the juice, and is invisi- 
ble before the fermentation commences, but, so soon as that 
process begins, the clear liquor becomes turbid and a separa- 
tion takes place ; some subsides and settles to the bottom, 
some becomes charged with carbonic acid gas and floats on 
the top until the gas escapes, when it sinks to the bottom. 
This is the time to separate the wine from the superabundant 
yeast, as there will still be enough left to carry forward the 
fermentation with sufficient rapidity to insure a sound, good 
wine. The wine, then, will not, in all cases, be clear, but if 
it is a little turbid, it should be racked off, and the casks well 
washed out with cold water, and the wine returned into them 
to complete its fermentation. Some wines will not require a 
second racking off, as the separation from the ferment or lees 
will have been sufficiently effected, and the fermentation 
during its future progress will be moderate enough to fine 
itself bright and clear ; but if that should not be the case and 
it still continues turbid or riley, a small quantity of isinglass 
or fish-glue should be dissolved in strong spirits and added 
(about one ounce of the glue to one pint of spirit, for a bar- 
rel of forty gallons is sufficient); it should be dissolved warm 
and put into the bung-hole, and then slightly stirred over the 
top ; it is gelatinous, and in subsiding carries down the super- 
abundant particles of ferment that heretofore kept up the 
action, causing the muddiness of the wine. Whenever the 
wine appears clear it should be racked off, and, in most cases, 
it will not need any further assistance, but becomes bright 
and clear. The process of fermentation does not stop here, 
however, as it is constantly progressing in the form of an in- 
sensible fermentation, elaborating and combining the elements 
of the new and acrid, and producing a mellowness of the 
wine that is only acquired by age. If the wine has been 
fined or separated too much from the lees during the first 
racking off, it will be thin and wanting in "body" and defi- 
cient in aroma ; this can only be remedied by adding sub- 



80 APPENDIX. 



stances to it that will strengthen it, whether sugar or spirit, 
but either will injure the quality, and the produce will not be 
of fine flavor or possess the mellowness that is indispensable 
to good wine ; in fact, the "manufacturing" should be as much 
avoided as possible. The strength of wine depends upon the 
amount of sugar contained in the juice of the grape, a portion 
of this sugar is decomposed and its alcohol combined with 
another portion of the sugar during the fermenting process : 
now if the fermentation is hurried too rapidly, and is not sus- 
pended at the proper time, the spirit will, by another fermen- 
tation, the acetous, be converted into vinegar, and the whole 
irrecoverably lost, as no " manufacturing or doctoring" will 
ever correct a cask of wine after that change has occurred. 
The acetic acid may be neutralized, but it will never be 
sound, good wine ; for this reason — a too rapid fermentation 
should be guarded against. Very weak wines are more liable 
to become acid than strong ones, for the amount of alcohol 
elaborated, when there is an abundance of sugar, serves to 
check the rapid vinous fermentation, and prevents its running 
into the acetic change. 

Some have tried adding sugar to the juice, but the diffe- 
rence between cane and grape sugar is such that the product 
has not been satisfactory. 

I think the juice of well -matured Catawba or Cape grapes, 
that are produced in this vicinit}% is strong enough to insure 
good wine without any addition either of spirit or sugar. 

Julius Brace. 

December, 1850. 



ON SPRING AND SUMMER PRUNING. 

R. Buchanan, Esq. : — 

Dear Sir. — To your request that I would communicate a 
detailed statement of my mode of training and pruning vines, 
I cheerfully comply — and as I think much experience and 
observation are required to arrive at the best methods, I shall 



SPRING AND SUMMER PRUNING. 81 

give only what has proved most successful with me. My 
vines or a portion of them have been planted nine years ; the 
rows five feet apart, and the vines three feet distant in the 
rows. Roots, one year old from the cuttings, were planted 
after being cut close down to the crown. The first year 
they were allowed to grow without any other care than 
keeping the ground clear from weeds. The second spring, 
early, the tops were all cut down to two eyes, and a stake 
driven to each vine, six or seven feet long. One or two of the 
best shoots were allowed to grow, all others rubbed off. 
These two shoots, or canes as they are technically called, are 
tied up to the stakes when they have grown eighteen or 
twenty inches in length, and should be kept tied from time to 
time, as they advance in height through the second summer ; 
little or no pruning will be required this season. 

The third spring, I would cut these canes down to two 
eyes, although some of the strongest might bear fruit the third 
summer, it is much better to let them grow another year, and 
become strong, before raising a crop. This season more 
attention is required, and they must be prepared to bear a 
good crop the fourth summer. The two most thrifty shoots 
must be selected the third spring and kept tied with rye- 
straw, or some other strong and suitable material, to the 
stakes, as in the second summer. This year I pinch off all 
the lateral or axillary branches between the thumb and finger- 
nail before they become too large and woody — otherwise, if 
left too long, so as to require the knife, the determination of 
sap in that direction is liable to force out the sleeping eyes, 
which should remain dormant till next year. These lateral 
shoots should be pinched off to the height of four or five feet, 
or as high as is intended to prune the next spring ; after that 
they may be allowed to grow as they check the extension of 
the main shoots. 

The two canes of this year will be strong and vigorous and 
soon rise to the top of the stakes, where they must always be 



APPENDIX. 



strongly tied to prevent the effects of wind. About the first 
of September, and not much before, the extremities are 
pinched off to arrest their further elongation and growth — 
whereby the wood and buds become more perfectly matured — 
this finishes the Avork of the vines for the third season. 

We are now arrived at the fourth spring. The vines are 
old enough to bear a full crop — and we have two good thrifty 
canes ready for the knife — the old strings by which they were 
secured to the stakes are cut — and the tendrils trimmed off. 
The cane that comes off highest from the root is chosen to 
bear the whole crop, and is cut off about four feet from the 
ground, having from six to ten eyes according to the length 
of the joints — the other cane, which is often equally beauti- 
ful, is cut down to two eyes, and is generally used for cuttings. 
From these two eyes two more shoots are trained, as in the 
previous year. After all are pruned, and just when the sap 
begins to flow freely and the vines are most flexible, the bear- 
ing cane is carefully bent round in the form of a hoop, and 
tied to the stake with willow twigs — one at the bottom, one at 
the top of the circle, and the third fastens the extremity either 
to the the stake or to the vine below. 

I am often asked, why this hoop or circle ? The answer 
is, gradually to retard the current of sap or juice, that each 
eye may receive an equal share, and prevent its rushing on- 
ward to the last eye or bud, which is sure to gain too great a 
share and to cause a growth too exuberant if trained upward 
with the stake. 

The operation of tying is performed with much dexterity 
by experienced hands, and should always be completed before 
the buds are much expanded, as then they are liable to be 
broken off. 

All my hopes and expectations of a crop are now centered 
in this little circle. If the winter has not been too severe 
every eye will shoot, and in a short time show the blossoms, 
from one to three bunches on each. After the berries are set 



SPRING AND SUMMER PRUNING. 83 

my vines are carefully inspected by the vine-dresser, and from 
ten to fifteen of the largest and most promising bunches are 
selected, and all the others are pinched off, also all unfruitful 
shoots that may have pushed out from the circle. I know 
that many of our vine men allow every bunch to grow for fear 
of casualties. This I have proved to be an error. Ten to 
fifteen bunches, according to the strength of the vine, are 
more likely to remain on and produce more mature fruit than 
twenty or more. The vines must not be overtaxed — too 
heavy a burden can never be carried to the end of the jour- 
ney — but a light task will be more perfectly executed. 

Soon after the grapes are set and about the size of common 
shot, my rule is to pinch off the ends of the bearing branches — 
leaving four good leaves for the first bunch of grapes, and 
two additional leaves for every other bunch on the same 
branch — so that if there are three bunches there will be eight 
leaves to supply their wants. I have tried leaving these 
bearing branches to grow their full length without pinching 
them off, but I find they incumber the ground too much, with- 
out any perceptible improvement of the fruit. After these 
bearing shoots have been pinched off, especially if done too 
early, the buds in the axils of their leaves will push out. 
These I pinch off also when quite young, sometimes permit- 
ting one or two leaves to remain on them. The leaves on 
these laterals do not seem to subserve the wants of the fruit, 
like the original leaves on the bearing wood, which should be 
carefully preserved. At the fifth spring-pruning the vines will 
have the two good canes, as in the previous spring, with the 
addition of the old hoop or circle that bore fruit. This I cut 
off as close down as possible to the uppermost cane, and the 
other two canes are managed exactly in the same manner as 
in the preceding year. I never allow the old stock to rise 
more than six to ten inches above the ground — the lower they 
are kept the more healthy they will remain and be much more 
easily managed. Pruning the vine for wine requires a bold 



84 APPENDIX. 



hand and much firmness of purpose, otherwise the old stock 
will get too high and become incumbered with too many- 
shoots. It must be borne constantly in mind that one single 
bearing shoot or cane, having from six to ten eyes, will throw 
out as many bearing branches. From these ten bearing 
branches it will be easy to select from ten to fifteen bunches. 
These bunches, in any ordinary favorable season, may be made 
to yield one quart of good grapes, which will make, at least, 
a pint of wine. One acre of ground planted three feet by 
five will contain 2,904 vines. If each vine, then, yields one 
pint of wine only, there will be 2,904 pints, or 363 gallons, 
from each acre. This is more than the average yield per 
acre — and for the reason only that we are two greedy — by 
overloading the vines we fail to obtain a reasonable quantity, 
as well as a good quality of wine. 

The above contains most fully my views, derived from 
practice and close observation, on the subject of pruning the 
vine for wine. If you think they contain any hints that will 
aid beginners, or others, you are at liberty to make such use 
of them as you may think proper. 

Yours, respectfully, S. Mosher. 

Latonia Springs, Ky., March, 16lh, 1852. 



SOIL FOR A VINEYARD. 

R. Buchanan: — 

Dear Sir. — I consider the proper selection of the soil, as 
almost everything in the successful cultivation of the grape 
for making wine. I have visited nearly all the vineyards near 
Cincinnati, and feel confident that many of them must eventu- 
ally fail, from a want of selecting at first the right kind of 
soil ; and yet, in my opinion, there is plenty of suitable soil 
in almost any neighborhood. Some have planted on land of 
a grayish, gravelly superficial surface, with a heavy blue clay 
subsoil, impervious alike to water and the roots of the vine, 
further than is loosened by the spade or the plow in trenching 



SOIL FOR A VINEYARD SEEDLINGS. 85 

Such soil, if it does produce a growth of wood, yet causes 
the grapes to rot. 

Another soil, unsuited to the grape, is that with a surface 
of good, rich mould underlaid by a stratum of fine, bright, 
yellow sand, clammy and adhesive. This is well calculated 
to deceive, but it has no strength below the mould, and the 
vines invariably become weak and of small growth. Such 
lands may be improved by lime and ashes. But the soil upon 
which I rely, and from the experience of seven or eight years, 
place the greatest confidence, is of a grayish black, breaking 
up into small square lumps in cultivation, deep, and running 
into a reddish yellow subsoil, friable like the surface in work- 
ing, and generally resting on limestone rock; in such soil, 
with proper cultivation, I have never known the vine to fail. 
As to locality, I prefer a southern, western, or eastern aspect, 
in the order here named, to a northern, but consider the soil 
of the right selection of far more importance. 

Respectfully, John Williamson. 

March 1 5th, 1852. 



(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 
ON GRAPE SEEDLINGS, BY N. RIEHL, OF ST. LOUIS, JAN. 1852. 

The method which is most commonly followed in raising 
grape seedlings, is to sow the seed in the open ground, then 
select the finest or most vigorous plants and set them out in 
rows, where they remain until they come into bearing. Ex- 
perience has now shown that these seedlings are generally 
inferior in quality to the Catawba, or other sorts from which 
the seed was taken. Why such is the result, may be princi- 
pally attributed to the following reasons: Beside the ten- 
dency which the grape has, when grown from the seed, to go 
back to the natural wild state, like all other varieties of cul- 
tivated fruit, it also, like the strawberry, has a tendency to 
become dioecious by the abortion of male or female oro-ans in 
the flowers. Those plants may be recognized the first season 



86 APPENDIX. 



by their luxuriant growth and longer joints, while those 
which will probably produce the best varieties are of much 
slower growth, more delicate, and often die out in the first 
summer, when left exposed to the drought and scorching sun 
of our south-western climate. So there is no wonder why 
the exertions of amateurs have been attended with so little 
success in the production of better varieties of grapes from 
seed. 

The production of hybrid grapes, by crossing our native 
kinds with the European species, is a very uncertain process. 
The flower is formed in such a way as to make it very diffi- 
cult to decide whether the pistil is not already impregnated 
by the surrounding anthers ; and it is very doubtful whether 
there is yet one true hybrid grape in cultivation. Although 
it is not impossible that such hybrids may be produced, but 
we may be certain that the great number and very different 
varieties of the European grapes are varieties of one and the 
same botanical species, and not hybrids. So we have all 
reason to hope that, by starting with our native grapes, we 
may be able to produce sorts just as different and excellent, 
either for table or wine, as those of Europe are, without 
resorting to crossing the different species. 

The seeds should be selected from grapes of the greatest 
perfection, in every respect, large, fine bunches, and perfectly 
ripe, of the sort which the experimenter thinks most proper, 
probably Catawba. They should be sown, as soon as washed 
from the grapes, in four inch pots, in rich mould, not too thick, 
and covered about one-fourth of an inch with the same soil. 
These pots are to be kept always moist, and wintered in a 
conservatory, or pit, or any other similar place, until spring, 
when almost every grain will vegetate. They are then treated 
like other tender seedlings. They require plenty of light, 
and as much air as the weather will allow. From May or 
June, they require protection from the sun. 

The weaker plants should never be pulled out for the pur- 



GRAPE SEEDLINGS. 87 



pose of thinning. I would rather cut off close to the ground 
some of the most vigorous, if thinning should appear indis- 
pensable. If the young plants grow well they may be shifted 
two or three times into larger pots, being careful not to break 
the ball of earth, nor let the rootlets become dry. Some time 
in winter, when the seedlings are in the house again and 
have lost their leaves, they should be taken out of their pots 
and planted separately in pots corresponding to the size of 
their roots. 

Should their number be larger than I might wish to keep, 
I would select the moderate growers, with their short wood, 
and reject the longer and thinner ones. The second year or 
summer, two shiftings may again be necessary, and, if well 
attended to, they may be strong enough to be planted in the 
open ground in the spring of the third year. Staking, mulch- 
ing, and, perhaps, shading will be necessary at first ; but 
after being established, they may be treated like other vines 
in the vineyard. 

In the fall of the fifth year, most of these seedlings will 
bear fruit, and a number of them will give certain evidence 
of being inferior and poor, which may then be discarded. 
The doubtful and promising ones should be kept two or three 
years longer, before deciding upon their merits. 

In judging the qualities of the grapes, we must not ask 
too many good qualities of one and the same plant. A grape 
may be small and tough-skinned, and nevertheless make 
excellent wine ; and a very poor wine grape may be a deli- 
cious and beautiful table grape. In fact, the finest European 
table grapes — for instance, the Chasselas de Fontainbleau 
among others — is nowhere grown for wine ; and the grapes 
which furnish the best wine, like Tokay and Auvergnes, are 
never seen in market nor presented on the table, when others 
can be had. Nor should the experiment be made on too 
small a scale. The attending of four or five hundred pots 
does not require so much labor. They may be put under 



88 APPENDIX. 



the stage in the winter, when they have no leaves ; and one 
plant of superior quality found in such a lot will amply 
reward the cultivator for the trouble and expense. The win- 
tering of grape seedlings and their nursing in the green- 
house does not render them more delicate than they naturally 
are, and whoever attempts to raise them in the climate of St. 
Louis will find a similar course necessary to insure success. 



(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 

FROM THE PRESIDENT TO THE MEMBERS OF THE " WINE ASSO- 
CIATION." 

" Allow me, gentlemen, to suggest for your discussion 
some propositions, by which we may be guided this year, the 
adoption of which may prove useful and bring our society to 
the stand she ought to occupy as an institution, by distrib- 
uting the results of our experiments, founded on practical 
and scientific investigations, in cultivating the vine, and pre- 
paring a healthy drink, which may save our country millions 
of dollars, now yearly sent away to other lands for mixed 
liquids, called wine. By introducing a cheap, good, natural 
wine, whisky and brandy, and other deleterious articles, may 
be dispensed with, the habits of the people will be changed, 
and we shall see less drunkenness, as it is a well known 
fact that in wine-growing countries drunkards are very seldom 
found. 

"As we have in our society high-minded, generous, and 
disinterested members, who, with indefatigable zeal, have 
promoted the distribution and cultivation of the vine for a 
number of years, I do not doubt that they will also be glad 
to support measures which will bring our society to a higher 
stand. I, therefore, propose, 

" 1. Publishing the different modes of pruning and training 
the vines, and having them all fairly tested for a number of 
successive years. 



RKHFUSS LETTER NATIVE WINE. 



"2. Publishing monthly the different parts of the work to 
be done in the vineyard as a vineyard calendar. 

"3. Publishing the different modes of fermenting the 
wine, and its treatment in the cellar. 

"4. To induce wealthy merchants at home and abroad to 
invest their capital in our wine, so that by a competition for 
the produce a fair price may be realized by the maker, who 
may thus always find a ready sale, and not become discour- 
aged by the low state of the market. 

"5. Chemical analyses should be made of our soil, of the 
wood and leaves of the vine, and particularly of the fruit, 
from the beginning to the time of its maturity. 

" On the three first propositions you do not need a com- 
ment. To the fourth I have to remark, it would be bene- 
ficial for the wine-dealers to open large cellars here, and 
take the sweet must from the vine-dresser, and ferment it in 
their own cellars, under regular treatment, by which means 
the wine would be made of a more equal quality. 

" The man who dresses the vine, and he who understands 
the treatment of the wine in the cellar, are, in Europe, sepa- 
rate persons. 

"Here, among our vine-dressers, from a want of good cel- 
lars and casks, and from lack of proper treatment, I have 
found the best must converted into a liquid not good enough 
for vinegar, and too bad to be called wine. 

"L. Rehfuss. 

"February, 1852." 



(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 
NATIVE WINE. BY DR. MOSHER. 

In this climate, in good localities, it has already been 
proved, and many respectable persons in this vicinity can 
attest to the fact, that the Catawba and the Cape grape, when 
well treated, will yield a pure and perfect dry wine without 



90 APPENDIX. 



any admixture of sugar or alcohol whatever, or of any other 
foreign substance. Within my own knowledge, the pure juice 
of the Catawba grape has been kept in bottles twelve years ? 
the last six of which, it was kept in a dry chamber, and be- 
came so much improved as to be pronounced by good judges 
a most delicious dry wine, that would compare favorably with 
the very best Hock or Madeira. Twenty-four dollars a dozen 
was offered for it, by one who knew what constituted good 
wine. 

The pure juice of the grape alone deserves the appellation 
of wine — to obtain which, of an excellent quality is the grand 
desideratum that should engage the enlightened efforts of this 
society. If sugar or spirits is required to convert the juice 
of the grape into what is called wine, the sooner the vine-cul- 
ture is abandoned, the better — for we already have among us 
enough artificial mixtures of this class called wine — many of 
which, I am credibly informed, have never had the christen- 
ing influence of a single drop of the blood of the vine. 

If, in awarding a premium by this society for the best 
native wine of the vintage of 1847, it is intended to apply indis- 
criminately to all the mixtures of the produce of that year, it is 
difficult to perceive how horticulture is to be benefited by 
it. It is liberal and praiseworthy to offer rewards that will 
tend to encourage so important a branch of Horticulture as 
the vineyard — to bring its produce into a high state of excel- 
lence, and to make public that mode of culture and manage- 
ment of the vine, and that treatment of wine which shall 
elicit the most meritorious production and obtain the prize. I 
know the Society, in offering this reward, were actuated by 
the purest motives — to encourage horticultural improvement 
alone, and never dreamed of ministering to the cupidity of 
the most skillful inventors of compounds. That cultivator, 
who manages his vines in the best manner, and thereby pro- 
duces to this Society a pure juice of the best qualities, such 
as strength, fineness, aroma, and flavor, should be entitled to 



FOREIGN GRAPES. 91 



the premium, and not he who possesses most knowledge and 
skill in combining mixtures. It is of incalculable impor- 
tance to this Society, as well as to the community at large, to 
know how to cultivate the vine and to manage the pure juice 
so as to produce the best samples of wine, which will always 
be sure to command the highest market value. 



(From the Horticulturist.) 
FOREIGN GRAPES. BY MR. DOWNING. 

Mr. Togno is sanguine as to the introduction of the foreign 
grape in this country for open vineyard culture. The thing 
is impossible. Thousands of individuals have tried it on a 
small scale in various parts of the Union ; and several per- 
sons — as for example, M. Loubat, Mr. Longworth, etc., of 
great experience abroad or knowledge at home, joined to 
abundant capital, have tried it on a small scale. The result 
in every case has been the same ; a season or two of promise, 
then utter failure, and finally complete abandonment of the 
theory. 

The only vineyards ever successful in America are those 
of American grapes. As it is a pretty well established axiom, 
that the hardiness of a variety of tree or plant is not affected 
by grafting it on a hardier stock, though its luxuriant growth 
may be promoted by it, we doubt if our correspondent will 
find the mildew less inclined to make havoc on his foreign 
grapes, when worked on our wild stocks. If he really wishes 
to acclimate the foreign grape here, he must go to the seeds, 
and raise two or three new generations in the American soil 
and climate. They will then get American constitutions — 
which no grafting, pruning, training, or manuring will give 
them. The only thing that he can do for them, is to cheat 
them into the belief that they are in the warmer parts of 
Europe, by putting them in a glass house. If any of our 
readers doubt whether grafting can enfeeble a healthy variety, 
they have only to try the experiment by taking that variety 



92 APPENDIX. 

and grafting it for two or three successions upon unsuitable 
or unhealthy stocks. We do not mean, however, to assert 
that grafting on healthy stocks impairs the vigor of a sort — 
but only that any given variety, which has been propagated 
in this way time and again, for 100 years, is very likely, in 
the course of that time, to have been put upon an unhealthy 
stock, and hence to have lost some of its original vigor. 
January, 1851. 

(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 
FALSIFICATION OF WINES. 

As an evidence of the great importance our wine interest 
is assuming among the products of our country, the miserable 
attempt to palm off other brands at auction will show how 
highly ours are valued. An instance of this kind has elicited 
an explanation from Mr. Longworth, in the New York Tri- 
bune, which is here appended : 

"Sparkling Catawba Wine of Cincinnati. 
"A friend, recently from your city, informs me that, at the 
request of Mr. Leinan, a wine merchant on Front street, in 
your city, he sent him a box of my Sparkling Catawba wine, 
and charged him the invariable price here — $12; and that 
Mr. Leinan expressed surprise at the price, as he had recently 
bought my wine at auction, in your city, at $8 per box. I 
have not yet been able to supply the home demand — have 
never sent a box to New York, or any other city, for sale. 
Our merchants, who sell at $12, have a commission. My 
wine has not only an engraved label on each bottle, but ' N. 
Longworth, Cincinnati,' branded on the end of each cork, 
and my name, and the name of the wine, and Cincinnati, with 
a circle of bunches of grapes around it, on each bottle. My 
wine never will be sold at auction. I shall esteem it a special 
favor if Mr. Leinan will ascertain who sent the wine to auc- 
tion, and write me. That he will also compare the labels on 



TEMPERANCE AND THE VINE. 93 



the bottles, and the brand on the bottom of the cork. I have 
no desire to have even French Champagne sold as my Spark- 
ling Catawba. A merchant of our city writes me, that he 
was at one of your first hotels, and called for a bottle of my 
Sparkling Catawba, which was brought to him. That the 
moment he tasted the wine, he found it had not the Catawba 
aroma and flavor. He examined the bottle, and found no 
label on it. He took up the cork, and instead of my brand 
on its end, found the name of a French house. From the 
character of the hotel, I am satisfied this was a mistake of the 
waiter, who perhaps had never heard of Sparkling Catawba 
wine. Of the flavor and aroma of my wine, each person who 
drinks it can judge. I claim for it one superiority over im- 
ported Champagne. It will be found to suit the stomach 
better and be much healthier. It is the pure juice of our 
native Catawba grape, with the addition of the best rock 
candy. The French champagne is made from a mixture of 
three or four different wines, which never can be healthy to 
the stomach. They say one kind is to give aroma and flavor ; 
another strength ; another effervescence. If true, our Ca- 
tawba is superior, for it contains all these properties. Inte- 
rest may have its influence, even in France, as one of the 
wines used costs three times as much as the others. I expect, 
next summer, to have more wine than will meet the home de- 
mand, and shall then send to the eastern and southern cities, 
to wine merchants, to be sold at private sale, but never at 
auction. Any person who buys it, and is dissatisfied with its 
quality, can return it to the agent, and receive back the full 
sum paid. " N. Longworth. 

"October, 1851." 



(From the Western Horticultural Review.) 
TEMPERANCE AND THE VINE. 

We have long been of opinion, says the Southern Press, that 
the best remedy against the love of strong drink — a besetting 



94 APPENDIX. 

sin with the Anglo-Saxon race, is the free use of pure wine. 
It is a remarkable fact, that in the wine districts of Europe, the 
people are comparatively free from the brutal habit of intoxi- 
cation. Among the rural population of France, Italy, Spain, 
etc., the wholesome light wines in common use, are considered 
as essential to the table as bread and meat. The same, indeed, 
may be said of all classes. We have heard it remarked in 
derision, that give a man of this class a piece of bread, a few 
dry figs or dates, a little sweet oil, and a bottle of claret, and 
he will feast like a lord, and be happy. This mode of living 
is coeval with the introduction of the vine and olive of those 
countries ; and where a man is found indulging in the use of 
strong drinks, he is the subject of remark and commiser- 
ation, by his friends and acquaintances. A modern temper- 
ance reformer, would probably obtain new and valuable ideas 
upon the subject, by visiting Havanna. There, a temperance 
society, except by American newspapers, was never heard of. 
Yet in a population of nearly 20,000 souls, it is a rare thing 
to hear of a Creole or a Spaniard, who is in the habit of 
using distilled spirits. In regard to wines, however, especi- 
ally claret and Sauterne, all classes make free use of them at 
every meal. 

We find in the Horticulturist, the following sensible re- 
marks : 

"Very few Americans, except those who have traveled 
abroad, estimate properly the moral value of pure light wines, 
because pure wines very rarely find their way across the 
Atlantic. 

" As hocks or clarets contain only about eight or nine per 
cent, of alcohol, they are far more wholesome than coffee, 
and the cheap production of such wines, will do more to de- 
crease the consumption of ardent spirits than any other cir- 
cumstance. Neither law nor morals can be brought to bear 
upon the present age, so as to force men to be entirely temper- 
ate, but the introduction of wholesome, pure light wines, at a 



TEMPERANCE AND THE VINE. 95 

cheap rate will, as there is abundant proof in the wine dis- 
tricts of Europe. It is for this reason, as well as because we 
look upon it as a source of national wealth, that we regard 
the successful labors of such men as Mr. Longworth, in in- 
troducing and perfecting the wine culture, as worthy of the 
highest public gratitude." 



Amhersiburg, Canada West, March 12, 1852. 
R. Buchanan, Esq. : — 

Dear Sir, — I presented your letter to Mr. James Cousins, 
the person on whose lands the vines and cuttings were planted, 
distant some two miles from here. 

Mr. C. says, they have so far, proved a failure owing to the 
extraordinarily dry season in which they were planted. In 
fact, all the cuttings died, and also a great part of the vines ; 
but there are some living, and doing well. 

He is of opinion, that the grape might be cultivated here to 
great advantage, with the exception of the foreign kinds, 
which generally mildew. The fruit of the Isabella and 
Catawba appears to ripen very well in this section of the 
country. The soil is clay. 

The winters are generally moderate, but the present one 
appears to be the exception to the rule, for the thermometer 
has stood as low as 17° below zero. If, therefore, the vines 
are not affected by this great degree of cold, we may safely 
say this part of the country would be well adapted to grape 
culture. 

The wild grape grows abundantly here (small black fruit), 
and I have tasted wine made from their juice, far superior to 
any Port we can get here. 

I have the honor to be, Dear Sir, 

Your obedient, humble servant, 

A. H. Wagner. 



96 APPENDIX. 



(From Cipt's Advertiser.) 
GRAPE CULTURE NEAR READING, PA. 

The following letter from the Reading correspondent of the 
Philadelphia Ledger, invites and deserves a careful perusal in 
this region, on various accounts : 

In the first place, many interesting and valuable facts for 
our vine growers are contributed from Berks county experi- 
ence. There can be no doubt that much of the character of 
grapes is derived from the subsoil, and the suggestion on this 
point, will be worth attending to. 

Passing from solids to fluids, I would say a few words on 
the cultivation of the grape vines "in these diggings. " The 
phrase is literary correct ; for the vineyards here are all un- 
dermined by diggings for iron, and their soil copiously inter- 
spersed with large fragments of heavy iron ore. I had no 
idea that such labor could be performed, as has here been ex- 
pended on the culture of the grape ! Mr. John Fehr, our 
industrious vintner, of whose wines you will have received a 
sample, has dug down his whole vineyard to the depth of 
three feet, to plant the Isabella and Catawba grapes, which 
now yield beautifully. Some five or six hundred cart-loads 
iron ore had first to be removed from the soil, before the vines 
could be planted. 

The attempt to cultivate exotic grapes has utterly failed. 
In 1839, Mr. George Lauer imported some seventeen thou- 
sand grape vines, comprising nine different sorts, of the best 
European vines ; but they all perished from the vicissitudes 
of the climate. Previously, in 1831, Mr. William Tibler 
planted the Isabella grape, indigenous to South Carolina, 
which produces largely and is less sensitive to changes of 
temperature, and from which, most of the Reading wine now 
entering into consumption is made. 

The Catawba grape, from North Carolina, was only intro- 
duced in 1835, by Mr. Gottfried Pflieger, but is now about 



MANUFACTURE OF WTNE, AND ROT IN GRAPES. 97 

to be cultivated on a large scale. The grape of this vine is 
more spicy than the Isabella, and the quality of the wine 
much superior ; but its yield is less, and its cultivation costs 
much more labor. The Catawba grape is extensively culti- 
vated in Ohio and Missouri, and is the grape from which all 
the better sorts of American Champagne are manufactured. 
It improves, like the Hock grape, for a period of thirty years, 
after which it declines and becomes gradually unfit for the 
production of wine. The vineyards must then be renewed. 
The Catawba and Isabella grapes resemble the German and 
French grapes in many respects ; but their skins are thicker 
and less transparent, and the interior is more pulpy, or 
"fleshy," as the Reading and Ohio vintners call it. Cultiva- 
tion will, no doubt, remedy the defect. The time of the blos- 
soming is about the same as in France ; but the vintage is a 
month earlier. Where the vintner, in Germany and France, 
must cut the leaves to afford sun for his grapes, the American 
must try to shade them if he would bring them to maturity. 
For this reason, I suppose, nature has provided the Ameri- 
can grape with a thicker and richer foliage than any other 
grape in the world. 



MANUFACTURE OF WINE, AND ROT IN GRAPES. 

To the Wine Committee of the Horticultural Society, Cincinnati : 
Gentlemen : — Each year's experience proves, that too little 
neatness and care are generally observed in gathering and 
selecting the fruit, in pressing out the juice, and having clean, 
pure casks, and a cool cellar. After racking in the spring, a 
cool cellar is indispensable, and few if any of our common 
cellars, are cool enough. They are too much affected by the 
outward air, and all jarring from the passage of wagons, or 
other causes, is injurious. The casks, after racking in the 
spring, should be always kept full and air-tight. We espe- 
cially err in gathering our grapes too soon. We should never 



98 APPENDIX. 



do this until they have reached their utmost maturity, unless 
they should be seized by the rot. 

I formerly supposed (being influenced by the opinion of 
foreign writers), that every object could be obtained by the 
addition of good sugar. Experience convinces me of the 
contrary. Sugar will be converted into alcohol, and give 
strength to the wine. But it will not give the same richness of 
aroma and flavor as the fruit, so ripe as to require no sugar. 

In some parts of Europe, to give richness to their wines, 
they gather their fruit and partially dry them before pressing, 
to carry off the watery particles from the fruit. This wine 
sells at a high price. Before gathering the fruit, its richness 
should be ascertained, as its color is no certain indication. 
This richness, when the maturity is the same, will vary in 
different varieties. To test its maturity, press out a tumbler 
full of must, and if you have no saccharometer, put in it a 
fresh laid hen's egg. If of proper maturity, the egg will then 
rise the size of a quarter of a dollar above the juice. If not 
rich, it will sink. The Catawba should, in favorable seasons, 
weigh from 90 to 97 degrees, by our saccharometers. 

Many use fresh brandy pipes, to put their must or wines in. 
They are destructive to the aroma and flavor of the wine. 
Alcohol should never be added, unless the wine be too weak 
to keep, and when this is done, it should be distilled from the 
same kind of wine. If not, you injure its aroma and flavor. 
Spirit is never necessary, when the fruit is matured, unless it 
be in a hot climate. Then it seems to be indispensable, as 
the following hot season brings on the acetous fermentation. 
An intelligent gentleman of South Carolina, Mr. Guignard, 
and another friend, both wrote to me to this effect. So much 
so does the value of the wine depend on the maturity of the 
fruit, and great neatness in manufacture, that in buying, this 
winter, from a person in the vicinity of Louisville, I paid him 
for his new wine, three times the sum that I paid him for his 
wine made in the year 1848. When that was made, he 



MANUFACTURE OF WINE, AND ROT IN GRAPES. 99 

acknowledged he was not aware of the great importance of 
having his fruit fully matured, and the great care necessary 
in separating green, decayed, and rotten grapes, and neatness 
in manufacture. The only object in buying his wine of 1848, 
was to distill it into brandy. One great advantage that our 
native wine will have, is its being the pure juice of the grape. 
In Europe, total changes are wrought in the wines in the mer- 
chants' wine-cellars. And we are so much the creatures of 
habit, that for many years we gave a preference to those wines 
of Madeira, that had the strong fetid flavor which they de- 
rived from the old goat-skins in which the must was carried 
from the mountains, on mules, to the cellars of the wine-mer- 
chants at Funchal. 

I yesterday had wines offered me for sale, when one of the 
persons made an observation, that revived recollections of a 
few years past. The wine of one of the persons was of fair 
quality, and he offered it to me at little more than half the 
price fixed by the other. Yet such was the quality of the 
400 gallons of the latter person, that even a Jerseyman could 
not try to buy cheaper, and I promptly complied with his 
terms. Better Catawba wine I have never seen. I inquired 
if his grapes rotted the past season. He replied not, and that 
the rot in the vineyards of all his neighbors had been severe. 
I observed, yours must be a sandy soil, or more porous than 
your neighbors. He replied, a stiff subsoil of clay, the same 
as his neighbors. That he could give but one cause for his 
success. That before the rot began, his time had been so 
much taken up by his farm, that he neglected to hoe his vine- 
yard, and it was filled with grass and weeds. Finding his 
not to rot, while the well-hoed vineyards of his neighbors suf- 
fered severely by the rot, he left all standing and had a full 
crop, and left his grapes until fully ripe, and when he did 
gather them, did it from a fear of injury from frost, and 
thought the yield as large as it would have been had he 
gathered his grapes earlier. I recollect, some years since, 



100 APPENDIX. 



when my vineyards suffered severely from the rot, some of my 
lazy tenants, who left half their vineyards in grass and weeds, 
which escaped the rot, while the clean vineyards of their 
neighbors adjoining, and their own portion cleaned, suffered 
badly from the rot, attributed their escape to their idleness in 
not cleaning their vineyards. I was and am unwilling to 
believe this ; 

" But facts are chiels that winna ding, 
And dinna be disputed." 

I can scarcely believe this, for though I cannot fully believe 
the doctrine, that every act of an idle sinner is hateful in the 
eyes of his Creator, I am slow to believe that he holds out 
inducements to idleness. His long forbearance and mercy to 
idle sinners compels me to believe he shows more mercy to 
them, and views their transgressions with more lenity, and 
makes more allowance for their bumps, natural propensities, 
education and examples, than their more fortunate and perfect 
fellow-mortals. But I would still call the attention of vine- 
dressers to the subject, as worthy of note. I believe each 
year's experience confirms the opinion, that a sandy or porous 
soil suffers but little from the rot. A thorough draining, in 
our subsoils of clay, may produce the same effect. 

N. LONGWORTH. 

Cincinnati, February 18, 1850. 



COMMUNICATION FROM N. LONGWORTH, 

Read October %\st, 1848, and ordered to be appended to the 
Report of the Committee on Fruits. 

TO THE CINCINNATI HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

Gentlemen, — I objected to the Report of our Fruit Com- 
mittee, in giving, as the cause of the rot in our grapes, "their 
location being in confined situations, not fully exposed to the 
air, and their proximity to orchards or woods." My experi- 
ence is the reverse, as regards a full exposure to the air, 



COMMUNICATION FROM N. LONGWORTH. 101 



though I do not consider that the location, as to air, either 
causes or prevents the rot. 

Most of my vineyards at Tusculum are on a high hill, and 
on its sides, fully exposed to the sun and air, and facing east, 
west, north, and south, with no tall trees in the vicinity. Yet in 
all these vineyards the rot has prevailed, and this season two- 
thirds of the crop was lost. The subsoil is a stiff clay ; and 
to this I chiefly attribute the rot. Among my vines near the 
foot of the hill, where the ground was more porous, there 
was less rot ; and in the bottom, or near it, where the rain 
immediately sank deep in the earth, there was no rot. And 
this I have found to be the case at other vineyards. Where 
the subsoil was a compact clay, the rot prevailed. Where 
the subsoil was mixed with sand or gravel, or where it was 
porous, there was no rot. 

I have for the past five years believed that the land in 
Kentucky, on the opposite side of the Ohio, would be prefer- 
able, for the grape culture, to our own. The soil on that side 
of the river is in many situations sandy, and the rain passes 
freely through it. The consequence is, they supply our mar- 
ket with strawberries a week earlier than we can raise them 
on our side of the river ; and most, if not all their vineyards, 
are planted in soil of this character ; and I have heard of no 
serious loss by the rot on the Kentucky side. On inquiry 
of our intelligent Germans, I find their experience coincides 
with mine. In their vineyards, the rot injured them the least 
where the ground was porous, or the water, from the decliv- 
ity of the ground, passes off speedily; or if the subsoil was 
a clay, and it was mixed with stone, which caused the water 
to sink speedily. One of my vineyards at Tusculum suffered 
but little from the rot, and this was on land where the sub- 
soil was a stiff, damp clay, and near to the forest. The Ger- 
man who cultivates it is a perfect "swoab," a very ignorant 
man. He, however, was able to give the reason for his 
escape from the rot. He " prepared his ground and planted 



102 APPENDIX. 



his grapes just so as he did in Germany." His vineyard is 
on the top and sides of a high hill, descending both to the 
north and south. He trenched his ground, throwing up the 
earth from each side, making beds fifteen feet wide, with deep 
trenches on each side, and the trenches having a quick descent 
for water down the hill, north and south. On these ridges he 
planted three rows of grapes. The consequence was, that no 
water lay on the surface, or had time to saturate the clay 
beneath, but speedily passed into the trenches, and from 
them rapidly down the hill. On inquiry, I learned the part 
of Germany he came from had a subsoil of stiff clay, in con- 
sequence of which all their vineyards were graded in like 
manner. Nine-tenths of our " swoabs," in all their business 
and pursuits in life, must do it "just so as they did it in 
Germany," without any change for soil or climate ; and the 
result is not always as favorable as it was with my tenant. 

But I would not be understood as saying, that other causes 
may not also operate more or less in causing the rot. One 
reason for believing that other causes may operate is, that 
previous to the last six or eight years, we had much less of 
the rot, yet our soil was then the same, and our rains as fre- 
quent and heavy. But the rot should not discourage us. 
After losing two-thirds of their crops, my tenants, the past 
season, made upward of nine thousand gallons of wine, and 
most vineyards escaped much better than mine, and many 
had no rot whatever. 

In Germany, our vine-dressers assure us, the crop is not 
more certain than with us, though they are but little troubled 
with the rot. Their seasons are much shorter than ours, and 
their crops are often destroyed by their early frosts. My 
wine-cooper informs me that before he left France, they had 
lost four crops in succession, and many of the poor, owning 
small vineyards, had cut them up, and planted vegetables in 
their place. I am informed, by intelligent Germans, that the 
same would be done in Germany, if the poor vine-dressers 



COMMUNICATION FROM N. LONGWORTH. 103 



were allowed to do it. But the vine-dressers, both of Ger- 
many and Spain, have a greater evil to contend with. In a 
season when the yield is abundant, so low is the price of wine 
in Germany, that if you will take two empty casks to the 
press, you will be allowed to carry away one of them filled 
from the press. In Spain the evil is still greater. Mr. Sam- 
uel E. Foote, who was many years purchasing wine in Spain, 
informs me that he paid the cooper $13 for wine pipes, and 
the vine-dresser $5 for filling them. 

Mr. Rehfuss recently imported from Germany the instru- 
ments used there for testing the saccharine quality of the 
must, and the strength of the wine when fully fermented. 
The result surprised me. Our must this season ranged from 
80 to 101 degrees. I am informed, by intelligent German vine- 
dressers and wine-coopers, that in Germany it ranges from 70 
to 90. Many are under the impression that the grape, farther 
south, possesses more of the saccharine principle than it does 
with us. I believe this is never the case ; and if it is, it is 
more than counterbalanced by their vintage coming on in the 
heat of summer, and the grape possessing a larger portion of 
the fermenting principle. Very few, if any, of our wine- 
coopers now add sugar to the must ; yet our wines, in tight 
casks and cool cellars, keep sound for years, without any 
addition. But the casks should be kept full, to guard against 
accident. 

I corresponded for several years with Mr. M'Call, who 
cultivated the grape for wine, near Dublin, Georgia. He 
informed me that he was in the constant habit of adding 
from 2 to 2-J- lbs. of sugar to the gallon of must, of the 
Schuylkill Muscadel (Cape) and Catawba grape; and fre- 
quently found it insufficient to prevent his wine from running 
into the acetous fermentation. I know that Mr. Herbemont, 
of Columbia, South Carolina, was in the habit of adding as 
much sugar to his must ; yet when his wine was offered for 



104 APPENDIX. 



sale at public auction soon after his death, most of it was 
turned to vinegar, or undergoing the acetous fermentation. 

The pure dry wines of Germany weigh from four to seven 
degrees, in general. The wines of Madeira weigh from twenty 
to twenty-five. This is occasioned by the quantity of brandy 
added. In their hot climate, I believe it is necessary, to pre- 
vent the acetous fermentation. If not, they would not add 
any brandy, or not so large a quantity. — N. Longworth. 



NATIVE GRAPES. 

To the Editors of the Cincinnati Gazette : — 

Messrs. Editors. — I requested last spring, in your paper, 
that persons having any new variety of the native grape, 
would do me the favor to forward me cuttings, that I might 
test their quality both for the table, and for wine. 

The communication was extensively republished in most 
parts of the Union, and the result was that twenty-four varie- 
ties were sent me in February and March last. I grafted 
them, and also planted cuttings. Most of the grafts are now 
in fruit, and from the wood and leaf, about one-fourth of them 
promise to be of superior quality. All of them are new in 
this vicinity, but two, the Olmstead and Minor's Seedling. 
Both of these are Fox grapes. The fruit of the first, I have 
not seen ; the second, is the best Fox grape that I have seen. 
The pulp is unusually soft, for that family, and the grape re- 
markably sweet, though it does not contain as much sacchar- 
ine matter as some grapes less sweet to the taste. It is not a 
great bearer, though it bears uncommonly well for a grape of 
that class. 

The Fox grape may never be valuable for a wine grape, 
except to mix with others, to give aroma and flavor. I re- 
ceived cuttings of several varieties of Fox grapes, and the 
stem and leaf of most of them are so strongly Fox, that they 
cannot be valuable. In my boyhood, I thought this grap*- 



NATIVE GRAPES. 105 



the most delicious of all fruits, and found some that bore a 
fair crop. This vine is easily distinguished from all others. 
The leaf is like leather — thick, and of a white color on the 
under side, and downy, and the new wood covered with a 
hairy down, generally of a reddish cast. It is a great objec- 
tion to it, that the fruit drops on the ground as soon as it is 
ripe. I rank the common class as about equal to the Black 
Scuppernong of North Carolina (the Muscadine of the Missis- 
sippi), from which, it appears, a superior wine is made in 
North Carolina, by putting three pounds of sugar to the gallon, 
and sold for $4 per gallon, and from two thousand to three 
thousand gallons are raised on an acre. Further, a Horticul- 
turist there, tells us, he also makes wine from the green grape ; 
the same person who raises so large a quantity, Mr. Alves, 
of Kentucky (formerly of North Carolina), tells me they put 
from one-fourth to one-third of spirits to the gallon, and sell 
the wine from seventy-five cents to one dollar per gallon ; a 
wide difference in price this. The North Carolina Horticul- 
turist seems learned in the manufacture of foreign wines, as 
he tells us that one-third of Brandy is added to Port, Malm- 
sey, and Madeira wines. This will be news indeed, to the 
European wine merchants. 

The black Scuppernong bears from one to four berries on a 
bunch, and would, in times of war, if lead be scarce, be as 
valuable, even when fully ripe, as the Fox grape, for bullets. 
The white Scuppernong, also, has 'a very small bunch, and is 
a better grape than the black. But the skin is thick, and the 
pulp hard ; it will never be valuable as a wine grape, unless 
to give to other must, aroma and flavor. 

Our vineyards may have produced 800 and possibly 1000 
gallons on an acre, but no vineyard has averaged 300 gallons 
for ten years. I believe ground, with a mixture of sand, or 
such as will freely let the rains sink, will be less subject to 
rot, and average double the crop produced, where the sub- 
soil is a stiff clay. 



106 APPENDIX. 



I shall be gratified to receive letters from all persons having 
new varieties of hardy grapes in their vicinity, describing the 
character of the wood and leaf, color, size, and quality of the 
fruit, etc. After importing foreign grapes for thirty years, 
from all latitudes, I have never found one worthy of cultiva- 
tion in open air, nor do we require them. We have native 
grapes of superior quality, both for the table and for wine ; 
and by raising seedlings from our best natives, and from a 
cross between them and the best foreign, we can greatly im- 
prove them. We have neglected our native grapes. 

Forty -five years since, I heard of a superior grape in the 
garden of Mr. Zane, of Wheeling, found by him in a wild 
state on Wheeling Island. I sent for cuttings, and found the 
grape of no value. I heard of a person in Kentucky, who 
had it, and that it proved of good qualit}^. I obtained cut- 
tings, and it proved to be the Vevay, or Cape (Schuylkill 
Muscadel) grape. I am now satisfied that neither was the 
Zane grape. I, this spring, had cuttings sent me, from a vine 
got of Mr. Zane, some thirty years since, and which has 
never got out of the neighborhood, and which I doubt not 
will prove of superior quality. 

A native grape, of different aroma and flavor, and in all 
respects equal to the Catawba, would be worth millions of 
dollars to the nation. If my correspondents do not err, some 
of the kinds sent me are superior. The origin of the Catawba 
is in doubt. Major Adlum first brought it into notice, having 
found it some twenty-five years since, in the garden of a Ger- 
man, near Washington city. 

I received recently, an interesting letter from Mr. Alves, 
of Henderson, Kentucky. He was born in North Carolina, 
and says he heard of the Catawba grape in the upper part of 
North Carolina, forty years ago, and that it was discovered 
near the Catawba river, from which it derived its name. A 
grape, precisely the same, is said to have been discovered in 
a wild state, a few years since, in Pennsylvania. I have one 



NATIVE GRAPES. 107 

from the south-west, of the same color, aroma, and flavor, 
but smaller, and the vine of slow growth, and a poor bearer ; 
and one bearing much larger fruit, of precisely the same 
character, but inferior. I discovered it in the center of my 
vineyards, and know not how it came there. 

My oldest vine-dresser, Father Ammen, has gone the way 
of all flesh, and I regret his end. He was a worthy old man. 
Some twelve years since, he lost his wife, and deeply regretted 
her loss. He assured me, with tears in his eyes, " she was 
just so good in the vineyard as one man, and he might just 
so well have lost his horse." He got a second wife, but she 
was of hasty temper, and gave the old man as good as he 
sent. Finally, she told him, if he would give her five dollars, 
she would leave him, and never see him more. " Give you 
five dollars !" said the old man : " I will do no such thing ; 
but if you go and never come back, I will give you ten dol- 
lars." The money was paid, and the old man was relieved 
of that trouble ; but one that he deemed greater came. I 
have heretofore said, that after being my tenant ten years, 
he was ruined by selling his share of the crop for eight hun- 
dred dollars. He cleared out ; went to the north part of the 
state ; bought land, and planted a vineyard. The location 
was too far north. His vines were killed, and he came back 
a poor man, and began a new vineyard on a farm of mine, 
adjoining his old one, on which his son-in-law has resided 
since he left it. This year his vineyard came into bearing, 
and the old man's heart rejoiced to think that he should again 
be able to sit under the shade of his favorite tree, and enliven 
his heart with wine o^his own making. But, alas! the rot 
came, and blasted his prospects. He became dispirited ; 
which, the cholera discovering, a few days since, seized his 
victim. He was taken to the house of his son-in-law (for he 
lived alone, and I could not prevail on him to take a Frau 
for the third time), when they urged him to take medicine, 
but he refused. He was told if he did not, in a few hours 



108 APPENDIX. 



he must die. "What I care?" said the old man, "I take 
none. What I want to live for ? My grapes all rotten." A 
few hours, and he was no more. Peace to his ashes. 

N. LONGWORTH. 

Cincinnati, July 16, 1849. 



MANUFACTURE OF NATIVE WINE. 

Gentlemen of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society : 

The season for our vintage is approaching, and the quality 
of the wine depends mainly on the period of gathering the 
grapes, and the care and neatness exercised in the manufac- 
ture, and the selection of the casks : skill has little to do with 
it. To make good butter, is apparently one of the most sim- 
ple employments ; yet not one dairy-woman in ten makes but- 
ter of the first quality ; while the best commands twenty-five 
cents per pound, the poorest has a dull sale at half price. 

The first error is gathering the grapes too soon. This sea- 
son has been a severe one on our grape crop, yet from the in- 
creased number of vineyards now in bearing, I believe the 
vintage will be greater this season than last. A late frost was 
very destructive in our vineyards, and the summer rot more 
so. From the first, vines often recover. One person informed 
me the frost killed all the young shoots, and his vine-dresser 
cleared out in despair, but that the dormant shoots put out 
with great vigor, and from one acre and one-third he expected 
to make 1,600 gallons of wine. If this prove true, the frost 
has to him been a blessing ; fori have never yet known 1,000 
gallons to be made from an acre. 

If we want large crops, we must go-to the fertile lands of 
North Carolina, where, from their famous Scuppernong, they 
make from 2,000 to 3,000 gallons per acre. This is truly mi- 
raculous. I have known a bunch of our Catawba grape, to 
have 150 berries, and weigh twenty-four ounces. On the 
Scuppernong, the yield is from two to eight berries. The 
price is in proportion. We add no sugar, and sell our wine 



MANUFACTURE OF NATIVE WINE. 109 



from one dollar to one dollar twenty-five cents per gallon. 
They add three pounds of sugar to the gallon, and, strange to 
tell, make a Hock wine (which is a hard, dry wine), and sell 
it for four dollars per gallon. 

Injurious as we found the frost, the rot has been more de- 
structive. But the experience of this year will confirm the 
opinion, that the rot is occasioned by a stiff subsoil of clay, 
through which the water cannot pass freely. In our sandy 
soils there has been but little rot ; and in many, none. On 
our rich, deep-soiled bottoms, the rot has been less than on 
our side hills. The first error we commit, is gathering: our 
grapes too soon, and before the saccharine principle is fully de- 
veloped. Last season, some of the must of Mr. Rehfuss, 
weighed 101, while that from some other vineyards weighed 
from sixty-five to eighty only. The best average about nine- 
ty-five. In Germany, superintendents have this subject in 
charge, in the several districts, and they name the day on 
which the vintage is to commence. I presume this is to pre- 
vent ignorant vine-dressers from gathering their grapes too 
soon, as they are anxious to save a loss in quantity. This 
creates as great an evil as it is intended to remedy. All vine- 
yards do not mature their fruit at the same time ; and often, 
in the same neighborhood, one vineyard will mature its fruit 
a week earlier than another. The ripest bunches only should 
be picked at the first vintage ; and all rotten, defective, and 
green grapes, carefully picked out. The grapes should not 
be gathered till the dew is off. A second picking should be 
made some eight or ten days later, when, with great care in 
picking out rotten, decayed, and green berries, wine equal to 
the first may be made. The rejected grapes from both pick- 
ings, will make a common wine, but will be improved by add- 
ing eight or ten ounces of sugar to the gallon of must. 

The press and casks should be clean. Even fresh brandy 
and Madeira wine-casks should be carefully cleansed, to take 
out all the taste of those liquors ; the casks placed in a cool 



1 10 APPENDIX. 



place, where there is a circulation of fresh air, for fermenta- 
tion ; the bung- being left out after the fermentation com- 
mences, till it abates, when the bung should be put in tigkt, 
and a spile-hole made, and air given from it, two or three 
times per day, and as soon as it can be done safely, all air 
excluded till the wine is clear, when it should be racked 
off. I would sooner pay seventy-five cents per gallon for 
must weighing ninety-five, than five cents for one weighing 
seventy-five. 

In the manufacture of wine in Europe, in times past, the 
grapes were always mashed with the feet before pressing, and 
in many places, the same practice still continues. We have been 
inclined to attribute this practice to their ignorance, and want 
of cleanliness. I believe, however, that, like many other old 
customs, we now treat with ridicule, the practice was impor- 
tant to the manufacture of good wine. My attention was first 
drawn to the subject by Mr. Wu. Hatch, who stated, that in 
manufacturing wine from the Catawba grape, where pressed 
with little or no mashing, the wine contained but little of the 
muscadine aroma and flavor. On inquiring of my manufac- 
turer of sparkling Catawba, I learn that the same opinion 
prevails in the wine countries of Europe, and in consequence, 
the machine for mashing the grape is but little used in France. 
In the manufacture of Catawba wine, it is a great object fully 
to develop its muscadine flavor, as it is always retained in 
the wine after the most perfect fermentation. I would, there- 
fore, recommend, even where they pass through a machine, 
that they be further mashed by pounding, using care not to 
crack the seed, or much bruise the stalks. By mashing, the 
pink color is, also, in part, brought out. The muscadine fla- 
vor adds greatly to the value of the wine, and where not fully 
developed, will lead to the conclusion that the wine is not 
pure. Where it exists in its full strength, it will always be 
evidence of the purity of the wine, as the aroma and flavor 
are peculiar, and cannot be successfully imitated. The ma- 



STEMMING AND MASHING GRAPES. 



Ill 



chine in use for mashing grapes, does not separate the stems 
from the mashed berries. I would draw the attention of our 
ingenious mechanics, to induce them to add such an addition 

to the present machine. 

Respectfully, 
Sept. 14, 1849. N. Longworth. 

APPARATUS FOR STEMMING AND MASHING GRAPES. 

Latonia, February \Qth, 1850. 

R. Buchanan, Esq.: — 

Dear Sir,— In a letter addressed to the Horticultural So- 
ciety of this city, by Mr. Longworth, some time last fall, he 
expressed the opinion that two essential requisites were yet 
needed, to complete the process of making wine from the Ca- 
tawba grape ; one of these was a method by which the grape 
could be separated from the stem, and the other was to 
impart the peculiar perfume or aroma of the fruit to the 

wine. 

Before I had seen Mr. Longworth's letter, my father had 
resolved to adopt a method for accomplishing both of these 
objects, by a very simple process, which has been pursued by 
our family and others, in the vicinity of Tours (in France), 
for several generations past, in the manufacture of wine. 
The method is exceedingly simple, and is probably the only 
one that can be applied successfully to a large crop. Various 
attempts have been made, in this vicinity, to accomplish the 
desired object, but they have invariably failed ; the only sure 
method, it being supposed, was, to pick the fruit from the 
stems by hand : this tedious process could, of course, only 
be adopted with small quantities of grapes. My father's me- 
thod is remarkable for its rapidity, and the perfect manner 
in which the grape is separated from the stem ; the unu- 
sual excellence of our wine made by this process the last 
season, bearing ample testimony to the usefulness of the 

method. 
10 



1 1 2 APPENDIX. 



There are many who think it not only a matter of indiffer- 
ence whether the fruit is pressed with the stem or not, but 
some venture to assume that the astringent principle contained 
in the stem, is essential to the preservation of the wine. 
From all these views, I dissent, and take the ground that 
nothing but the perfectly ripe grape itself should be subjected 
to pressure : and our wine manufacturers will, I predict, 
find this opinion correct after they have had sufficient time 
to test it. 

The usefulness of the apparatus alluded to, depends more 
upon the method of using it, than upon the article itself — it 
being mainly a manual process, facilitated by the use of a 
screen of wire, so arranged that sufficient space is allowed for 
the operator to extend his arms freely, and with the aid of 
hand-pieces, the grapes are made to pass with great rapidity 
through the screen, entirely separated from the stem. It is 
difficult to describe the process on paper ; in fact, it can only 
be understood practically by witnessing the operation. 

The crushing and attrition of the grape by this method are 
such as to bruise and rub the skin of the fruit, without break- 
ing the seed, and thus impart the aroma to the wine. 

In addition to the stemming process, we pass all our grapes 
through the "rollers," in a small wooden mill, before pressing. 
Respectfully yours, 

J. A. Corneau. 



FERMENTING THE GRAPES ON THE SKINS. 

John Williamson, a successful cultivator of the vine, who 
resides near New Richmond, 0., has tried the experiment for 
the last two years, of letting his grapes ferment on the skins, 
slightly, after being mashed, and before pressing. He allows 
them to stand in large open hogsheads, for twenty-four to thirty 
hours, or, until they begin to ferment, and the grapes rise 
to the surface. They are then pressed. Too much fermenta- 
tion in this state would be injurious, and give a bitter, astrin- 



VINEYARDS ABOUT CINCINNATI. 113 



gent taste to the wine ; but a slight fermentation adds to the 
color and aroma. 

Mr. Williamson's wine enjoys a high reputation where 
known, and readily commands $1,25 per gallon, whenever it 
is offered for sale. 



VINEYARDS ABOUT CINCINNATI. 

To the Editors of the Cincinnati Gazette : 

Gentlemen : — I was yesterday at some of the vineyards on 
the Ohio, below the city, and among others at the vineyard 
of Mr. Duhme, who, I understand, resides in the city. The 
location is a good one, with a favorable soil, and is, I believe, 
the largest vineyard in the State. It requires his personal 
attention. The grapes ripen badly, and a large portion of 
them cannot ripen at all. 

In some parts of Europe, where their summers are cool, 
they find it necessary to shorten the leading branches intended 
to produce the next year's crop, and thin out the leaves, and 
head in the short branches, and fully expose the fruit to the 
sun and air, to insure its ripening. This method, in our hot 
climate, is often highly injurious to the plant, and destructive 
to the fruit. If the heading in of the leading shoots be done 
early in the season, the fruit-buds of the following year are 
thrown out. As an experiment, I one year, by successive head- 
ing, had the fruit of four successive years on the plant at the 
same time, and the fall being favorable, the second crop ripened 
its fruit. Where the fruit branches are frequently topped, and 
the wood becomes ripe, the sap ceases to flow, and the fruit 
cannot ripen. This is the case at the vineyard of Mr. Duhme. 
In our hot climate no more lateral branches should be taken 
from the main shoots intended for next year's fruit than to 
give them the necessary length. The fruit branches should 
be topped when in blossom, beyond the second eye from the 
last blossom, and after that allowed to grow without topping. 
In our climate, to ripen the fruit, a portion of shade is neces- 



114 APPENDIX. 



sary, for where there is growing young wood, there is of 
course a full flow of sap to the fruit, without which it shrivels 
and drops off. 

This day I visited a German settlement on the Ohio, com- 
mencing about twelve miles above the city, and extending 
about four miles. The hill commences, close to the river, 
and rises gradually ; the usual bottom-land being on the op- 
posite side of the river. The soil is porous and well calcu- 
lated, in my opinion, for the cultivation of the grape, and nearly 
the whole of the four miles is occupied by vineyards, and 
there are also some on the top of the hill. Two of the vine- 
yards belong to Englishmen ; the owners of all the others are 
Germans. 

Most of the vineyards in this vicinity have suffered severely 
from the rot, and some vine-dressers, expecting in the early 
part of the season to make from 2000 to 4000 gallons of 
wine, will not make 100. Yet their vineyards are on the 
sides and tops of the hills, fully exposed to the sun and air. 
But the subsoil is a stiff clay retentive of moisture. These 
localities will, I fear, be always subject to rot, and yet the 
vineyards will be found more profitable than any other crop. 
To persons having a porous soil, I would recommend the cul- 
tivation of the Herbemont grape. It is a fine grape, both for 
the table and for wine, and perfectly hardy. It makes wine 
of superior quality, similar to the Spanish Manzanilla, or 
Mansineella, as it is generally pronounced. This grape has a 
soft pulp, and resembles the best foreign table grapes. Lick 
Run, in our immediate vicinity, will make one of the most 
beautiful rural spots in the world. It will soon be a continu- 
ous line of vineyards. I wish some of our poets would visit 
it in May or June, and give it a more beautiful and appro- 
priate name. They may rack their brains for months, and 
not find one worthy of the scene. It is different on Mount 
Adams, which is in a double sense in connection with the 
heavens — its height and proximity to the great Telescope of 



VINEYARDS ABOUT CINCINNATI. 1 1 5 



Professor Mitchel. The highest street is called Celestial 
street. Commanding as the view is, the name surely 
equals it. 

1ST. LONGWORTH. 

P. S. I have just returned from a visit to the vineyard of 
Mr. Langdon, on the bottom of the Little Miami, eight miles 
above the city, in a sandy soil. That porous soil is not 
subject to the rot in grapes, is exemplified here. His misfor- 
tune is in fact too large a crop of fruit, an unusual complaint 
this season. Yet he will have a poor vintage, arising from 
two causes, which prevent the fruit from ripening. The first 
and least cause is too much fruit, from leaving too much 
bearing wood. There was more than the vine could give a 
supply of sap for, in a favorable season. The second and 
great cause is the same as at the vineyard of Mr. Duhme. 
The fruit has no shade, few leaves, and but little young wood 
on the fruit branches, to carry sap to the grapes to ripen 
them. The wood is life, and the circulation of the sap 
stopped, not one-fourth of the grapes will ripen perfectly; 
many of them shrivel and drop, and many of them scarcely 
change color. A favorable fall will aid them. 

I observed in the vineyard of Mr. Langdon, that the Ca- 
tawba vine is much closer jointed than in our richer land, 
where there is a subsoil of clay ; and one of my German vine- 
dressers assured me this is always the case. This would indi- 
cate an increased crop, and the change probably depends on 
the richness of the soil. An important inquiry is, will the 
grape, in a sandy soil, yield an equal amount of sugar ? I 
wish our vine-dressers to direct their attention to this subject. 
In some of our vineyards, they have both soils, and the ques- 
tion will be easily decided. The color of the Catawba grape 
is no certain evidence of its ripeness and richness. They are 
often of unusual dark color, this season, yet the juice has one- 
eighth less sugar. N. Longworth. 

September, 1849. 



116 APPENDIX. 



VINEYARDS IN CLARK COUNTY, INDIANA. 

The following letter, from Mr. Gibson, will be found 
interesting : — 
R. Buchanan: — 

Dear Sir. — Mr. A. Goodwin, my father-in-law, yesterday- 
placed in my hands a letter from you of January 28th, and 
requested me to reply to the questions therein propounded, 
which I take great pleasure in doing. The number of acres 
of grapes in cultivation in our county (Clark), is somewhere 
between 150 and 200, and steadily on the increase. The 
Catawba is almost exclusively cultivated. Those who plant 
a few Isabellas, generally dig them up after a few years' trial. 
The objection to them is that they are much more liable to 
the rot than the Catawba. 

The distances at which the vines are planted vary in differ- 
ent vineyards from 3 by 6 to 4 by 8 feet. Mine is 8 by 8 
feet ; but I know of no others planted so widely apart. The 
cultivation adopted is simple, and costs next to nothing. The 
land is deeply plowed in the spring — holes dug with a 
spade, and two or three slips planted in each hole — the 
ground is then planted in potatoes and pays for its culture — 
second year the same. Third year the vines are staked, 
plowed and hoed once or twice. I have never known 
manure to be applied, and most of our cultivators are of 
opinion, that the poorer the land the better it is for the grape. 
When Mr. Goodwin first commenced the culture of the grape, 
he planted perhaps an acre in a very rich river bottom, and 
cultivated them with a great deal of care. They made enor- 
mous growth of wood and a fine show of fruit ; but it invari- 
ably rotted. I do not believe that he ever got two barrels 
of grapes from the vineyard. It was finally dug up and 
destroyed. 

The grape is very subject to rot in some seasons, though 
hardly as much so, I think, as around Cincinnati ; at least 
ours have escaped here, when yours were partially destroyed. 



SPRING PRUNING SPUR SYSTEM. 117 

Vineyards planted in low valleys have generally been aban- 
doned. The fruit is almost always killed by spring frosts. 
The average quantity of wine per acre is about 200 gallons ; 
this, I mean, for an average of different years. I have 
known them to rot so badly as not to produce 50 gallons. 
One thing I have never yet known — a vineyard to suffer 
much from the rot the fourth year — the crop is always good. 
The juice is generally sold from the press at from 70 to 80 
cents per gallon, to vintners in Louisville, Cincinnati and New 
Albany. 

My attention was called, a few years ago, to a grape which 
has been cultivated here for the last forty years, and is, I 
think, a native. It is about the size, shape and color of the 
Cape, but, in my opinion, superior to the Catawba, as a table 
grape. It is a vigorous grower, and entirely free from rot, 
but somewhat liable to crack when exposed to the sun. 

T. Ware Gibson. 
Charleston, Ind., Feb. 26, 1850. 



SPRING PRUNING SPUR SYSTEM. 

The following letter on this subject will be read with inter- 
est by vine-dressers. Mr. Sleath is one of our best prac- 
tical horticulturists. He had charge of Mr. Longworth's 
green-house and garden for many years. 
R. Buchanan: — 

Sir. — At your request I now give you the method of spring 
pruning which I have lately adopted in my vineyard, and 
which I believe to be the best. It may be called the alter- 
nate spur system, for want of a more descriptive name. The 
method is simply this : Instead of training only two canes to 
the stake for bearing wood, as pursued in the bow system, 
train three or four. Then, in the ensuing spring, cut down 
to two or three eyes, and train three or four canes for bear- 
ing the next year, from the lower bud, or that next the 



118 APPENDIX. 



stake. This can be done by pinching in the bearing branch 
from the upper bud of each spur. 

Subsequently cut down, in the spring, each branch intended 
for bearing to two eyes, regulating the number of spurs, to the 
age and strength of the vine. 

To prevent the stalks from getting too high, cut back from 
the top, and train young wood from the lower buds. I will 
frankly admit that this system requires more care and better 
judgment in summer pruning than the old one; but I am 
certain it will produce more perfect fruit, which is the great 
object. 

Respectfully, 

G. Sleath. 

Note to page 67. — The success at first, of the Swiss at Vevay, Ind., 
in vine culture, was owing to their selection of a native grape — the 
Cape. For several years their vineyards prospered ; but being planted 
on new land, in rich river bottoms, and the ground not trenched, they 
were much troubled by rot, and finally abandoned. Another cause of 
failure, was in the quality of their wine, which was made too harsh 
and acid, to suit the taste of the American consumers. But few vine- 
yards are now cultivated at Vevay, and those on the hill-sides. The 
town is a Swiss village no longer. Many of the descendants of the 
former " vignerons," removed to other parts of the country; some 
settled in this vicinity, and few of those that remain, follow the occu- 
pations of their fathers. It has lost the charm of novelty to the west- 
ern traveler, which it presented thirty-four years ago, when the writer 
there, for the first time in his life, saw vineyards. 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 



PREFACE TO THE STRAWBERRY. 



The following articles from the pen of Mr. Long-worth, on the culti- 
vation of this delicious fruit, will be found highly interesting and in- 
structive. 

Cincinnati has, of late years, been famous for her fine sugar-cured hams, 
sparkling Catawba wines, and a cheap and abundant Strawberry market. 
The latter has mainly resulted from the discovery, that certain fine va- 
rieties of the strawberry were more prolific in the pistillate than stami- 
nate organs, and that when beds were planted with a due proportion of 
male or staminate plants — say one-tenth — the crop was far more abun- 
dant, and the fruit finer than that produced by the old methods. When 
this became known to Mr. Longworth, about twenty-five years ago, he at 
once made public this secret, possessed by a few, that all might profit by 
it. Our cultivators had the good sense to adopt it, and the result has 
been, that from the same quantity of ground, we produce more Straw- 
berries, in this vicinity, than in any other portion of the Union. 

For many years Mr. Longworth was warmly opposed on this ques- 
tion by Eastern Horticulturists. Some of them have lately yielded to 
his opinions, and others are probably testing its accuracy by experi- 
ments of their own. 

The Cincinnati Horticultural Society appointed two committees, at 
different periods, to investigate the subject. After a careful examina- 
tion, both reported favorable to Mr. Longworth's position, fully sus- 
taining his views in almost every particular. These reports are here- 
with presented — the first in full, the latter only in part, for want of room. 

Several valuable Seedling Strawberries have been produced by the 
Horticulturists in this vicinity. Mr. Geo. Graham's and Mr. Mother's 
were favorably noticed some six years ago ; and those of Mr. D. Mc- 
Avor and Mr. Schneicke, exhibited last spring, created quite a sensa- 
tion in the Horticultural Society. 

The premium of one hundred dollars was awarded to Mr. McAvoy, 
for his "superior" — the best of three fine varieties of his production; — 
it was pronounced, by the committee, better, in every respect, than any 
other Pistillate Strawberry cultivated in this region. Schneicke 's 
Hermaphrodite Seedling, named "Longworth's prolific," from its size, 
quality, and the perfect fruit on all its blossoms from its first bearing, 
was deemed superior to any plant of that class known here, where the 
best English Hermaphrodites are cultivated. 

(121) 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 



Mr. Buchanan : — It occurs to me, that in connection with your publi- 
cation in relation to the grape culture, and the manufacture of wine, 
engravings of the Strawberry blossom, and a short description of their 
sexual and bearing character, will be highly beneficial, if properly un- 
derstood. Every family having thirty feet square of ground, may have 
an ample supply of fruit. In our best species of Strawberries, there 
are four distinct kinds, as to their sexual character, and this character 
is never changed, if each kind were cultivated for a thousand years. 

The last persons to believe in this difference in the sexual character 
of the plant, are our botanists. For it is true that the Strawberry be- 
longs to a class of plants, that possess both male and female organs in 
the same blossom. But in their wild state, and in raising from the 
seed, there, are three kinds produced, entirely differing in their charac- 
ter. And in raising from seed, one may be found in many thousand 
plants, distinct from the former three. Of the last description, until 
recently, I had met with but two, the Eberlein, and Duke of Kent. 
The size of their fruit is too small to render them very desirable. A 
new Seedling, raised by one of my tenants in the Garden of Eden, 
(Mr. Schneike), from seed that I furnished, is of this character, and 
should it sustain the bearing character it has for five years (the period 
since it first bore fruit), it is superior to any plant of its character, or 
any Hermaphrodite in cultivation. It has produced each season a full 
crop of extra large fruit, of fine quality. The pistillate blossoms not 
only produce a certain crop, having staminates in the truss, but each 
Hermaphrodite blossom has proved perfect in both organs, and pro- 
duced large, perfect fruit. In this, it thus far differs from all Hermaph- 
rodites The famous Keen's Seedling, Swainstone, and others of that 
class, will not average one-fourth of a crop of perfect fruit. One of 
the three varieties first named above, is always perfect in the male 
organs, but the female organs are so defective that not one blossom in ten 
thousand will bear a perfect fruit, and rarely a defective one. We call 
them staminate. Another of the three, always perfect in the female 
organs, but so defective in the male, that it is a rare occurrence for them 
to produce even a defective berry, without impregnation from other 
piants. These we call pistillates. The third one we term Hermaphro- 
dites. Being perfect in stamens, and more or less perfect in pistils ; 
these bear from one-tenth to one-third of a crop. This variation in 

(123) 



1 24 , CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

product is owing to a better development of the pistils in favorable sea- 
sons. The famous Keen's Seedling, and other prized English varieties, 
are of this character, for it is not till recently, that they have under- 
stood the true character of the plant, but have adhered to the opinion 
of Linnaeus, that all varieties have both organs perfect, and a failure 
to bear fruit, they attribute to the effect of frost. The last rare variety 
is a plant that has, with staminate and Hermaphrodite blossoms, or 
Hermaphrodite blossoms only, a portion purely pistillate. Hermaph- 
rodites, and staminates, to a casual observer, present the same appear- 
ance. Where there are no insects, even Hermaphrodite blossoms require 
impregnation by hand. It is even said, that some kinds of plants, if 
not all, require particular kinds of insects to perform the impregna- 
tion ; that some plants, strangers to our climate, require impregnation 
by hand, as we did not, with the plant, import the insect designed to 
perform the labor of impregnation. Of the truth of this, I have no 
knowledge, never having had my attention drawn to it. I believe one 
staminate, or Hermaphrodite plant, will impregnate twenty or more 
pistillates. Both require watching. If you plant but one staminate to 
twenty pistillates, the staminate will, in two years, take entire posses- 
sion and root out the pistillates. They are the most vigorous, and hav- 
ing no fruit to exhaust them, make ten new plants, where the pistillates 
form one. 

That Hermaphrodites require impregnation by insects, or by hand, 
I ascertained last season and this. In my grape-house, I had, last 
spring, a large number of pistillates and Hermaphrodites in pots. 
When in blossom, no insects were stirring, and neither bore fruit. In 
the garden, when the plants were in blossom, it was cold, and an in- 
sect was rarely seen, except on the south side of a high garden wall. 
There my blossoms were fully impregnated, for there insects congrega- 
ted. I had a large number of beds of plants, commencing twenty feet 
south of the wall. There, not one blossom in fifty of pistillates or 
Hermaphrodites, had a perfect fruit. This season, in my grape-house, 
I impregnated both kinds by hand, with a brush, and now have all 
fully impregnated, and fruit nearly ripe. I learn from my gardener, 
recently from England, that they now, in forcing their Strawberries, also 
impregnate with a brush. To shake the pot daily would produce the 
same effect, and I presume, more perfectly. 

I would recommend to plant three beds of pistillates, then a single 
row of Hermaphrodites, followed by six or eight beds of pistillates, 
and so continue to the end of the patch. I should cut off the runners 
in the single rows, and not allow them to increase. A staminate Seed- 
ling may come up in a bed of pistillates, and root most of them out of 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 



125 



the bed, before his presence is observed. This, and the prolific charac- 
ter of the staminates, has led many of our first Horticulturists, and 
among them Mr. Downing, to believe that pistillate plants become sta- 
minate by running. For our knowledge of the sexual character of the 
plants, even our learned botanists and gardeners, are indebted to a 
thoughtless remark of the son of an illiterate market gardener, who 
lost many thousands of dollars by the casual remark of his son. He 
made an independence by selling his strawberries from twenty-five to 
fifty cents per quart. The discovery reduced the price so much, that he 
turned his attention to vegetables. 

Cincinnati, March, 1852. N. Longworth. 



THE STRAWBERRY. 



This is one of the most abundant fruits of the west. Im- 
mense quantities are raised for the Cincinnati market, one in- 
dividual (Mr. Culbertson), having sent to market, in a single 
day, four thousand quarts, and employing sixty hands to 
gather them. All the famous eastern varieties are cultivated 
here, and do well. Beside these, very fine Seedlings have 
been raised by Mr. Mottier, Mr. Longworth, and others, 
that are as large, prolific, and high flavored, as have been 
described by eastern writers. The plan of shipping them to 



Note. — These cuts represent the difference of the flowers of the 
Strawberry plant. No. 1, is the staminate. No. 2, is the pistillate. 

STRAWBERRY BLOSSOMS. 

No. 1. No. 2. 





Staminate or Male Blossom. 



Pistillate or Female Blossom. 



126 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

New Orleans, packed in ice, has just commenced, and may 
eventually become an important branch of business, as they 
can be taken down in a week by our regular packets. No 
place in the world is probably better adapted for preparing 
strawberry jelly for exportation ; of which article, a large 
quantity is now annually imported from France, and sold in 
the eastern cities, and at New Orleans. 

For an elaborate account of the theory in regard to the in- 
fluence of the sexual character upon Strawberry plants, the 
reader is referred to Mr. Longworth's letter to the Society. — 
(Minutes Cincinnati Horticultural Society.) 

I regret that the committee on the character of the Straw- 
berry plant, have not yet been able to make up a unanimous 
report. It arises from a failure of the crop with some mem- 
bers of the committee, and from a conviction with our Euro- 
pean gardeners, that all varieties were perfect in both organs, 
in Europe ; and they are slow to believe the contrary. This 
I am positive is not the fact in England. In some soils and 
some climates, and in favorable seasons, such staminate plants 
as are partially perfect in the female organs, yield a larger 
crop than usual ; but can never be made to bear a full crop. 
But in raising from seed, fully one half will in general be 
staminate plants, and not one in fifty of them bear even a 
single fruit. Those that do bear, produce many defective 
berries. I do not believe that any soil, climate or season can 
make the pistillate plant bear singly ; and it is the only one 
worthy of cultivation for a crop. Of this, and of the stamin- 
ate and pistillate character of the plant in England, we have 
positive evidence from their great horticulturist, Keen himself. 
In the year 1809 (if my memory serves me as to date), Keen 
discovered that a new Seedling of his, planted by itself, did 
not swell the fruit. On a careful examination of the blossom, 
it struck him that it might be owing to a defect in the male 
organs. He then placed some staminate blossoms in a vial 
of water, and suspended them in the bed. He found the 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 127 

fruit in the vicinity to swell immediately, and he placed more 
vials of staminate blossoms in different parts of the bed, and 
had a fine crop. His letter will be found in the Transactions 
of the London Horticultural Society for that year. What 
was true in 1809, will be found still to be true. I have fur- 
ther evidence of the character of the plant in England. Fif- 
teen years since, I imported several varieties of strawberries 
from London, and among them I had both staminate and pis- 
tillate plants, but not one variety in which both organs were 
perfect in all the blossoms. The staminate varieties bore 
from one-tenth to one-third of a crop. Under the name of 
Keen's Seedling, I got a pistillate plant, that impregnated, 
produces abundantly, and the fruit is large and fine. By 
themselves, an acre would not produce a perfect berry. It is 
not. what in England is generally known by the name of 
Keen's Seedling. — Mr. Keen raised many varieties. The true 
Keen, is a staminate plant, and is more perfect in both organs 
than is usual, and produces a partial crop of large fruit. I 
incline to the belief, that for market, their gardeners cultivate 
the same seedling of his as the one sent me, and probably 
the same kind he impregnated by hand. It is truly a valu- 
able kind, and worth twenty of the staminate seedlings. The 
staminate Keen is cultivated for forcing, and as the object is 
large fruit, all the blossoms are picked off, except three or 
four that set first. 

But it will be asked, if true, why is not this known to botan- 
ists, and to -all our nurserymen who raise the plant for sale. 
The reasons are obvious. The strawberry belongs to a class 
of plants that have both the male and female organs in the 
same blossom. In all the white varieties I have seen, and in 
the Alpines, both organs are always perfect in the same blos- 
som. Both organs existing in all other varieties, though not 
both perfect in all the blossoms, the attention of botanists is 
not directed to it, or where noticed, is supposed to be an ac- 
cidental defect. In all the other species and varieties I have 



128 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 



seen, both wild and cultivated, I have met with one only, 
where the defect in the one organ or the other, was not appar- 
ent, and in that the fruit was very small. I have never seen 
a pistillate plant (one in which the female organs predomin- 
ate), that would by itself produce any perfect fruit. Stamin- 
ate plants (those in which the male organs predominate), 
where partially productive, generally produce the sweetest 
and most highly-flavored fruit. In certain soils and certain 
seasons, Keen's seedling, Wilmot's, the Iowa, and some other 
staminate varieties, will produce half a crop. 

Where our horticulturists raise from seed, all the staminate 
plants that are entirely barren, are of course thrown away, 
and the few staminates that produce a partial crop of large 
fruit retained. A pistillate plant, that, mixed with others, 
bears a full crop of large berries, is transplanted as a treasure, 
into a bed by itself, for increase. The gardener is the next 
season surprised to find it wholly barren, and after one or two 
trials, throws it away. 

The nurseryman, within a space of 100 feet square, culti- 
vates twenty or more varieties, and a large portion of them 
are always staminate, and impregnate the pistillate varieties. 
Fruit not being their object, their attention is not directed to 
their bearing, and the failure of a full crop, in any variety, is 
attributed to frost, or accident, or its being a bad bearer. Of 
this we have a strong instance in Hovey's seedling. It is 
eleven years since he raised this plant ; he has increased it 
extensively for sale. Six years since, I made known the de- 
fect in the male organs of the plant, and drew his attention 
to it ; and asserted that an acre of them, separated from all 
others, would not produce a perfect berry. Until 1842, he 
continued to contend, and was positive, that his plant was 
perfect in both organs. In 1842, he admitted in his Magazine 
its defect in the male organs. In 1844, he went back to his 
old doctrine, as will be seen by his Magazine ; and it was not 
until the August No. of his Magazine of the present year, 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY 129 

that his mind was again m) T stified on the subject. How are 
the mere workics to gain information, when the editor of a 
Horticultural Magazine, and a nurseryman, who undertakes 
to enlighten others, has not, in eleven years, ascertained the 
character of his own seedling ? I am the less surprised at 
this, and acquit Mr. Hovey of blame, as Mr. Downing, in a 
recent letter, assures me, that last season, he raised a fine 
crop of Hpvey's seedlings, on a bed far separated from all 
others ; and for a still stronger reason — that even the London 
Horticultural Society holds the same doctrine. But the ques- 
tion is now under investigation, and light is thrown on it 
yearly by cultivators, and even the London Horticultural So- 
ciety will soon acknowledge their error ; but not until Mr. 
Hovey has satisfied his own mind, when he will doubtless 
draw public attention to it. Yet Mr. Hovey, in his August 
No. of the present year, states, a person had cultivated an 
acre of his seedlings, where they were mixed with staminate 
plants, and raised two thousand quarts, and that his new 
seedling is valuable for impregnating his old one. Here is a 
tacit admission, that his old seedling is defective in the male 
organs. The yield was not a large one. Mr. Jackson raised 
at the rate of five thousand quarts to the acre, near Cincin- 
nati, as he informed the public in a late publication. Mr. 
Downing, I am positive, had not Hovey's seedling unmixed 
with others. 

To keep varieties separate, is next to an impossibility, and 
the more so, as new ones are often produced in the bed from 
chance seed. I was absent from home two months this 
summer, and left it in charge with my gardener to watch the 
beds, and keep down runners. On my return, I found the 
pistillate beds had become mixed, and the staminate Iowa 
had run on the adjoining pistillate beds, on each side, a dis- 
tance of nine feet. But though Mr. Hovey appears to admit 
that his old seedling requires staminate plants near, on the 
same page, he remarks, "It is time and labor thrown away 



130 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

to cultivate sterile plants, as has been recommended by some 
individuals, when varieties unusually productive, and of large 
size, can be planted out for that purpose." He here, of 
course, refers to his own seedlings. 

Mr. Downing describes the Old Hudson as " a fruit with a 
neck." Our Hudson is the reverse of a necked fruit, and I 
have never seen a single berry of this kind with a neck ; and 
I am positive that ours is the same variety that has been cul- 
tivated under this name in New Jersey, and in the vicinity of 
Philadelphia, more extensively for market, for the last fifty 
years, than all others united. The Hudson, or Hudson Bay, 
is described in English works as a necked fruit. They 
obtained it from New York many years since, and do not 
consider it a first rate fruit. I incline to the opinion, that 
the true Hudson was not sent them, or has been lost, and a 
new variety substituted. It has been of late years imported 
from England by New York gardeners, and by them consid- 
ered the true Hudson. The genuine Hudson is not now to 
be found in Boston, and probably not in New York. It is 
wholly defective in the male organs, and has been thrown by 
as unproductive. It is a large and finely-flavored fruit, and, 
where properly impregnated, a great bearer. 

Mr. Downing, in a letter to me, suggests that our Hudson 
has probably lost its neck by impregnation with other varie- 
ties. I hold that the character of new seedlings is changed, 
where the mother plant was impregnated by a different vari- 
ety, but that the shape or color of the fruit is not, where im- 
pregnated by a variety differing in shape and color from the 
plant impregnated. I wish to see the experiment made, 
whether the size of the fruit of the pistillate plant is in- 
creased or lessened by the staminate plant used for impreg- 
nation. An experienced market gardener assures me that it 
is increased. 

I have this moment received a letter from Col. Carr, an 
old and experienced horticulturist of Philadelphia. He 



CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 131 

writes me, "I have conversed with Mr. Hobson and others, 
who pay great attention to the cultivation of the strawberry, 
and they all unite with me in opinion. " " The Hudson is 
the principal sort cultivated for market, and has been for 
fifty years. It is what we call female or prolific. It never 
has a neck. A Mr. Abergust, who was my near neighbor, 
and excelled in strawberries, removed to • Cincinnati about 
thirty years since, and took the true Hudson with him, and 
the same now cultivated here. All our principal market gar- 
deners now begin perfectly to understand the difference be- 
tween staminate and pistillate plants, and find the former 
such strong runners as generally to prefer keeping them in 
separate beds." Mr. Abergust for many years sold nine- 
tenths of the strawberries brought to our market, and raised 
the Hudson only. While I could, from one-fourth of an 
acre, scarcely raise a bushel, he would raise forty bushels. 
His fruit was much larger than any other brought to market, 
and commanded from 25 to 37-J- cents per quart. He made 
a handsome competence from the sale of his fruit. His 
secret he kept to himself, and had been as much noted for 
the size of his fruit and the quantity raised on a given space 
of ground in Philadelphia as he was here. A chance obser- 
vation of a son of his one day, in my garden, saying, "I 
must raise but little fruit, as all my plants were males," first 
led my attention to the subject. I soon discovered that 
there were what he called male and female plants, and com- 
municated the fact to our market gardeners. The result was, 
strawberries rapidly increased in our market, till as fine as 
had been raised by Mr. Abergust were sold at from 3 to 10 
cents per quart, and he ceased to cultivate them. 

The British Queen is, at present, the most popular straw- 
berry in England, and much sought for here. Messrs. Cun- 
ningham & Son, of Liverpool, write me, that it is a fruit of 
fine size and superior flavor, but with them is a bad bearer ; 
that, in some soils and situations, it is said to be a good 



132 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

bearer. Here is the old story. I am convinced it will be 
found to be staminate, and of no value to our market gar- 
deners for a general crop. It may be pistillate, and its bad 
bearing caused by the absence of staminate plants. If so, it 
will be very valuable. Certain it is, it will not be found 
perfect in both organs. 

In a late number of the Farmer and Mechanic it is said: 
"Foreign strawberries are unproductive about Boston, and 
the only ones now cultivated are the Wood, Early Scarlet, 
and Hovey's Seedlings. That three cultivators near Boston 
sent four thousand five hundred quarts to market in a single 
season" What will our market gardeners say to this? The 
Wood strawberry is thought by them to be worthless, and 
not a quart was ever sold in our market. Its only merit is, 
that its blossom is said to be perfect in both male and female 
organs. The Early Scarlet is raised to some extent ; but 
four-fifths of all the strawberries sold in our market are the 
Necked Pine and Hudson ; mostly the latter. Mr. Culbertson 
brings more strawberries to our market than any other per- 
son. The greatest quantity he has brought in any single day 
was four thousand quarts ; and not one of the kinds named 
in the Farmer and Mechanic among them. All were the 
Hudson. By properly understanding the true character of 
the plant, Mr. Culbertson has been able to gather nearly as 
many quarts in a single day as three Boston cultivators were 
able to do in a whole season. I saw an editorial article in a 
recent eastern horticultural paper, speaking in high terms of 
the Alpine strawberry, as raised by a Col. Stoddert, and its 
great produce, which yielded him, at 121 cents per quart, 
upward of 81,600 to the acre. It is an indifferent fruit, and 
never yielded one-fourth the quantity. 

Can Hovey's Seedling, or any other large-fruited pistillate 
strawberry, be impregnated by the Alpine Monthly ? It is 
my impression that they are distinct species, and that it can- 
not be done. If it can, a cross might be produced that, with 



STRAWBERRY REPORT. 133 



the size and flavor of the one, might be united the ever-bear- 
ing character of the other. There is a wild, ever-bearing 
variety in our State, that would cross with the Scarlet and 
Pine, and is the only kind I have ever seen worthy of the 
name of Ever-bearing; for the Alpine, after the first crop, 
rarely produces much fruit through the season. Thirty 
years since, I met with a solitary strawberry plant on Mount 
Adams, then in bloom. I removed it to my garden, and the 
plant not only bloomed freely till frost, but all the runners 
threw out blossoms at the same time that they made roots, 
and bore abundantly till late in the fall. The fruit was small, 
but of fine flavor. A new hand in the garden, early the 
next spring, supposed they were weeds, and destroyed them. 
The old pioneer, Lewis DAvis, informed me the same variety 
grew in Greene county, on the cliffs, and had been frequently 
seen by him. I trust it may again be discovered, and Ohio 
have the credit of producing the only ever- bearing straw- 
berry, as well as raspberry. The latter plant, to produce a 
good crop, during the summer and fall, requires a moist soil. 
My ground in the city is too rich and dry for it. I have 
never seen the plant bear as well as in Newark, New Jersey, 
on a side hill, where the ground is moist, poor and stony. 
The plant did not attain half the size it does here ; but the 
fruit was large and abundant till frost. 

N. Longworth. 



REPORT ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE STRAWBERRY. 
(Made June 13th, 1846.) 
The Committee appointed two years ago, at the request of 
N. Longworth, Esq., to investigate the character and habits 
of the Strawberry, having had the subject under considera- 
tion, beg leave to report : 

That after numerous experiments made by the members of 



134 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

the Committee, relative to the character of the plant, and its 
productive qualities, they have unanimously arrived at the 
following conclusions : 

1. That strawberry plants raised from seed, like many other 
plants, are liable to run into diversified varieties, and a pecu- 
liarity in these varieties, is the irregularity of the reproduc- 
tive or sexual organs. 

2. That a few varieties have the flowers perfect in the 
sexual organs, and present the stamens and pistils both fully 
developed in each flower. Such flowers may produce a good 
crop of medium-sized fruit, as we have witnessed this season, 
in the cultivation of the La Grange (a variety of the Haut 
Bois), in the White Pine, and in the Monthly Alpine. 

3. Another class, which is numerous and embraces the best 
varieties cultivated in this neighborhood, has the female or 
pistillate organs fully developed, and the male or staminate 
organs so imperfect, that at first glance they appear to be 
wanting ; but a critical examination and dissection of the 
flower will disclose them, few in number, and so imperfect in 
anthers and pollen, that they appear incapable of fertilizing 
the stigmas ; consequently, they are termed pistillate or female 
plants, and require a staminate plant near them to furnish the 
fertilizing powers ; for without staminate plants, the crop will 
be small, and the berries imperfect. Hovey's Seedling plant 
will illustrate this class. 

4. Other varieties are perfect in the male or staminate or- 
gans, with the pistils imperfect. Such plants will produce an 
imperfect crop, although some flowers may have perfect pis- 
tils, and produce the berries of large size ; but under the 
most favorable circumstances they will fail to mature an 
abundant crop of fruit. 

It may be proper here to state, that these varieties have a 
strong growth, producing vigorous runners, and when planted 
with pistillate plants, within two or three years, they occupy 



STRAWBERRY REPORT. 135 



all the ground, and the cultivator, who is ignorant of their 
habits, generaHy concludes that his productive plants have 
become barren ; when, after proper examination, he would see 
that the pistillate plants had been displaced by the rapid 
growth of the staminates, and the quantity of fruit propor- 
tionably diminished. 

5. There are other varieties so defective in the pistils or 
female organs, as to be completely sterile, and fail to produce 
fruit, either in their native state or under the most careful 
cultivation. 

A majority of the Committee also express the opinion, that 
the varieties mentioned never change their character, so as to 
be transferred from one class to another, but continue their 
original distinction in the runners, and remain the same under 
all circumstances of cultivation. 

The minority of the Committee think that sufficient experi- 
ments have not yet been made, to demonstrate fully the truth 
of this opinion. 

Your Committee, therefore, relying upon their own experi- 
ments, and those made by other cultivators, freely state, that 
to insure an abundant product of large fruit, the principle of 
hybridizing must be adopted, and such varieties selected to 
bear fruit, as exhibit the female organs, or pistils, largely de- 
veloped, with the male organs, or stamens, defective or unde- 
veloped. To fertilize the female plant with the necessary 
pollen, the pistillate plants must be accompanied in the same 
bed, or near to it, with male or staminate plants. 

This rule being strictly observed, in all favorable seasons 
abundant crops will reward the careful cultivator. 

As further evidence that this is the most successful mode 
for the cultivation of the strawberry, your Committee beg 
leave to refer to the quantity of strawberries sold in the Cin- 
cinnati market this season, which were furnished principally 
by those who have adopted the system of planting female or 



12 



136 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 

pistillate plants, with a proportion of about one-tenth male or 
staminate plants for fertilizing. 

The amount sold has been ascertained by a Committee 
appointed by the Horticultural Society. The Committee 
reported the quantity in market each day during the most 
productive portion of the strawberry season, commencing on 
the 19th of May and ending on the 12th of June, — a period 
of twenty-two days, — in which time they state the aggregate 
amount at 4,150 bushels, being an average of nearly 200 
bushels per day. Other estimates make the quantity much 
greater. 

This product of fruit, compared with other markets, and 
the quantity of ground cultivated, furnishes conclusive evi- 
dence of the success in attending to the cultivation of stami- 
nate and pistillate varieties. 

Jacob Hoffner, jr., minority on 5th position. 

William Smith, 

R. Buchanan, 

George Graham, 

A. H. Ewing, 

A. H. Ernst, 

J. G. Anthony, minority on the 5th position. 

S. Mosher, 

S. S. Jackson, 

Committee. 

Cincinnati, June 13^, 1846. 



STRAWBERRY REPORT. 



137 



REPORT 

Of the Committee of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society on 
the Statistics of the Strawberry, and the quantity sold in 
the Cincinnati market, for the year 1846. 



May 19th 10 bushels. 



lviu. . . . 

20th... 


... 1U 

...20 


21st... 


...20 


22d . . . 


...25 


23d .. . 


...55 


25th . . . 


. .. 20 


26th... 


...250 


27th... 


... 200 


28th... 


... 200 


29th... 


. . . 250 


80th... 


...300 



June 1st 100 bushels. 



2d 

3d , 

4th, 

5th, 

6th 

8th, 

9th, 

10th. 

11th. 

12th. 



,300 
300 
,300 
,300 
350 
100 
350 
300 
250 
150 



Total, for 22 days, 4,150 bush. 
D. K. Cady, Chairman. 



REPORT. 

The Committee to whom was referred the investigation of the 
Sexual Characters of the Strawberry, beg leave to 
report : — 

That they have endeavored to discharge, in the most thor- 
ough manner, the duty imposed upon them, by investigating, 
with note-book in hand, the condition of various kinds of 
Strawberries, at the different stages of their progress, from 
the blossom to the ripened fruit, so as to observe any pecu- 
liarities of inflorescence, and watch the consequent effects 
upon the fructification. As an evidence of the fidelity Avith 
which your Committee have discharged their duty, allow 
them to say that this Report is based upon more than two 
hundred and seventy recorded observations, which were 
made with critical accuracy, and as extended, in almost 



138 culture' of the strawberry. 

every instance, as it -was possible to render them ; hence, it 
may be safely assumed, that they have now sufficient data 
and abounding testimony to prove the postulates they intend 
to lay down in this report. The whole subject has been so 
ably and so frequently explained to this society and commu- 
nity that there is nothing new left for your Committee, who 
only reiterate truths well established and generally admitted 
among us. 

After carefully collating and reviewing the facts which they 
have observed and recorded, the Committee present the fol- 
lowing conclusions or postulates, which have been deduced 
from their united observations : 

1. That there are many different varieties of the Straw- 
berry, which are characterized, in part, by the foliage, pubes- 
cence, mode of growth, and fruit, and, also, by their inflo- 
rescence. 

2. That the varieties in inflorescence (the most important 
to the cultivator) consist in the greater or less development 
of the stamens and pistils, respectively, upon which are 
based our terms and classification, " stami?iate" and "pistil- 
late," or, more familiarly with the mass of cultivators, male 
and female. (See page 123.) 

3. That these classes are permanent aberrations from what 
the great Linnaeus considered the normal condition of this 
genus of plants, as of its natural family Rosacea. 

4. That nearly all botanists (and among them our most 
enlightened modern writers) have overlooked the important 
error of Linnaeus, and have simply copied after him in their 
descriptions of the strawberry, without verifying for them- 
selves; while a plain, unlettered market gardener, but a prac- 
tical and observing man, discovered* the important fact, that 

* "We say " discovered," because we are unable to learn that Mr. 
Arbegust ever heard of Mr. Keen or M. Duchesne, or that he was at all 
in the way of reading anything upon the subject. 



STRAWBERRY REPORT. 139 



while in some plants the flowers are apparently perfect in 
both sets of organs, one set is really defective, to a greater or 
less extent, and, in others, the flowers which we style pistil- 
late, have the stamens so imperfectly developed as entirely to 
elude a casual observation, and only to be discovered by a 
critical observer, and then, in most instances, found to be 
wholly abortive. 

5. That no pistillate plant will bear a perfect fruit, if kept 
entirely apart from staminate varieties. 

6. That no staminate plants, which we have yet seen, can 
be depended upon by the cultivator as heavy bearers, though, 
from some unknown causes, the pistils may be so well devel- 
oped as to be followed by a good crop, some years, and in 
some situations. 

7. That there is no such thing yet known to us as a perfect 
flowered strawberry plant, in which the blossoms will all be 
uniformly so well provided with both sets of organs as to be 
followed by perfect fruit every year. 

8. That the only method of producing this delicious fruit, 
with any degree of certainty as to the result, is that now 
adopted by our intelligent cultivators, namely: To set out 
plants of both of the sexual classes, the relative proportions 
of each to be determined by experience, selecting such pistil- 
late kinds as may prove of good size and flavor, and only so 
many staminates as may be found necessary for impregnation. 

9. That the runners from a strawberry plant are as integral 
portions of itself as the branches and buds of a tree ; and, 
therefore, that we may always propagate any variety by this 
means, with as much certainty as we perpetuate any variety 
of apple, or other fruit, by grafting or inoculation. 

There are great differences in the productiveness of the 
staminates, from those which are entirely barren to those 
which may bear tolerably well, or even very well, under 
peculiar circumstances ; but our cultivators have been unable 
to ascertain any regimen, soil, or treatment, that will insure 



140 CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY. 



a full crop of berries upon any staminate variety, in a suc- 
cession of years ; and they, therefore, condemn them as un- 
worthy of cultivation, except as impregnators, and for this 
purpose recommend the selection of those which are remark- 
able for the size and flavor of their fruit, time of flowering, 
hardiness, etc. 

Since the great "Strawberry Question" has attracted so 
much attention, very many persons, anxious to verify for 
themselves the new doctrine, have tried the experiment of 
planting pistillate kinds separate and apart from all others. 
These efforts have been carried on with more or less care and 
precision ; but the results, in all cases that have come within 
our notice, confirm the Committee in their fifth conclusion, 
that no pistillate plant mil bear a perfect fruit, if kept entirely 
apart from staminate varieties.* And they are perfectly satis- 
fied that where any person thinks he has met with a different 
result, he must have been deceived by overlooking some male 
plants in the bed, or near it. 

The Committee, having examined a great many new seed- 
lings, which have not yet been tested sufficiently, have ob- 
served this fact, that, admitting them to be equally divided 
in their sexual character, the majority of the staminates will 
prove to be entirely barren. 

All those who would enter upon the business, or try exper- 
iments, are advised to commence by impregnating the best 
and largest pistillates with the largest and most highly-flav- 
ored staminates; keep each plant and its runners entirely 
separate from all others; test them well before exhibition, 
and lastly, if they be not decidedly superior to the kinds already 

* They take pleasure in referring to Mr. A. H. Ernst's article upon 
the "Cultivation of the Strawberry," in No. 11 of the Horticulturist, 
wherein he mentions some of our most intelligent cultivators, who had 
brought out this result with different kinds of pistillate plants ; and 
also to the admirable experiment of G. W. Huntsman, of Flushing, 
detailed in the 2d No., p. 88, vol. i, of the same journal. 



EXPERIMENTS BY HUNTSMAN. 141 

grown, in size, flavor and productiveness, or, unless they 
Lave some peculiarity of lateness or early ripening, it will be 
best to say nothing about them; for we have several kinds 
already that are worth raising, and are not confined to a 
selection of four sorts, as some suppose, namely, Hovey's 
Pistillate, Boston Pine, Wood, and Scarlet, the three latter of 
which are here condemned as unproductive, being staminates. 

A. H. Ernst, 

Geo. Graham, 

S. S. Jackson, 

John Lea, V Committee. 

N. Shaler, 

S. MOSHER, 

J. A. Warder. 



(From Downing's Horticulturist.) 
TWO EXPERIMENTS MADE TO TEST MR. LONGWORTH's STRAW- 
BERRY THEORY. 

Taking Hovey's Seedling as a subject, I procured a bell- 
glass, and placed it over an entire plant which had not 
bloomed. The flowers expanded well under the glass, but 
did not produce one berry. The plant was frequently agi- 
tated to put the pollen in motion, if there was any. 

I also introduced under a glass some blossom buds before 
they had blown. These, as they successively expanded, 
showed no signs of swelling. I impregnated, at different 
times, two of the blossoms by hand, applying the pollen 
from another plant with a camel's hair pencil. These two 
set their fruit perfectly. The pistils of the other blossoms 
soon turned to a dark color. These experiments were made 
at the north side of a picket fence, where the plants were 
screened from the full effects of the sun, otherwise the heat 
under the glasses would have been too great. 

These experiments prove, to my mind, very conclusively, 
that Hovey's Seedling will not bear any fruit unless impreg- 
nated by some staminate variety. And the same may be 



142 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

said of other varieties in which the stamens are obsolete. 1 
have had some plants of the Hudson Bay for three years, in 
a position where they cannot very easily be impregnated by 
other kinds, during which time they have not borne one 
berry, while other plants of the same variety, exposed, have 
been productive. A difference in the formation of the flowers 
on different plants is not confined to cultivated kinds, but 
may be seen in those growing wild in the fields, the pistil- 
late plants of which I have often examined with a magnifying 
glass, to see if I could discover any pollen, but have never 
been able to find it ; I am forced, therefore, to believe that 
jnstillate plants, both wild and cultivated, are absolutely 
devoid of pollen, and cannot, therefore, produce any fruit 
except when impregnated by others. 

I am also convinced, from observation and theory, that one 
kind will never change to the other by off-sets. The runner 
bearing the same relation to the plant producing it as a tree 
grown from a bud does to the tree from which it was taken. 
It may, then, be asked, how does it happen that there are 
pistillate and staminate plants of the same variety ? I answer, 
it is not the fact, unless they have sprung from seed, or the 
plants have been taken from the fields in a wild state. 

That pistillate plants are surer and better bearers than 
staminate plants, is, I think, generally true (provided, of 
course, that they are impregnated). And it would seem 
reasonable to infer that when but one of the sexual organs is 
complete, the other will have more strength. Plants, there- 
fore, that are perfect in both organs, require a higher state of 
cultivation. There is, however, a wide difference in the pro- 
ductiveness of different kinds, that are perfect in both organs, 
some being much more liable to blast than others. 

G. W. Huntsman. 

Flushing, L. L, July 14, 1846. 



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